Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Dec 20, 2006 09:13am | #1

   Try heating them up. Some will do it with friction, holding a block against the paper as it runs. A heat gun or maybe a hair dryer might help. They can be a bear since you can only get hold of one half at a time. You can slip a thin piece of Formica or aluminum under so you can get the disc free. When the backing strips off and sticks, I use 3M adhesive remover and a single edged razor blade. The adhesive remover is available at auto supply stores and comes in very handy around the shop. It is volatile with a strong odor.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

2. 
   arkriver | Dec 20, 2006 07:34pm | #2

   I've not found an easy way either. They are a pain. I usually start by using a chisel(flat side down) to pry up some of the loose stuff. Then I slop on some paint thinner and let it work and remove some more. Then repeat as needed. Not easy but but gets the job done

1. 
   Ron01960 | Dec 20, 2006 07:53pm | #3

   We use to use a commercial grade hand held, blower/heater. aka a hair drier that would set your head afire.We changed to Hook and Loop as soon as it was released.

3. 
   sapwood | Dec 20, 2006 08:37pm | #4

   Are you having trouble peeling it away from the backer plate or are you having trouble because it readheres when you rotate the disc to peel away the other side? If the later.... simply insert a piece of paper behing the peeled away part, rotate, peel some more. One half of the paper covering the new disc is handy to use.

4. 
   dtraversi | Dec 21, 2006 05:38am | #5

   Don't know if this applies to you all but when i used to buy the cheap discs- I had a heckofatime getting them off- when I switched to a "better grade"- they go on easy and come off like a dream.

   I use "Klingspor" discs- There are surely other high quality brands- these are fine by me

   best,
   Dave

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/20/2006 9:41 pm ET by dtraversi

1. 
   arkriver | Dec 21, 2006 06:19pm | #7

   I have tried several kinds. I suspect that part of the reason they are hard to remove is that I tend to leave then on for a long time before they are worn out. Mine may stay on for 6 mos or more before it is shot

5. 
   ptu | Dec 21, 2006 06:16pm | #6

   How come this thread starts (message 1 of 6 ) in the middle of a disscusion?? Where is the rest of it.?

1. 
   MBerger | Dec 21, 2006 06:43pm | #8

   Hi PTU,

   At the bottom of the discussion thread you should see the following links:

   Navigate this discussion:  All Messages 1-10 11-15

   If you click on the "All Messages" link, it will display all the messages. If click on one of the other number ranges, it will only show you those posts in the discussion.

   Does that helps?

   Matt BergerFine Woodworking

1. 
   ptu | Dec 22, 2006 08:29am | #11

   I don't know. It was message 1 of 6, there were no more ranges.

1. 
   DanG | Dec 22, 2006 10:41am | #12

   I'm guessing, but I suspect you're probably a faster reader than I am and flew right by the implied link between the discussion title and the beginning of message 1. If you make that connection: "Peal and stick 12" sandpaper discs; I love em, until it comes time to remove them..," it's easier to see that message 1 really is the beginning of the discussion.Dan

1. 
   philip | Dec 22, 2006 11:22am | #13

   How does this peal and stick work ? I mean , do you have to have two sticky surfaces, like contact glue?
   Why do you have to remove the old disc- you can't just peal and slap a new one onto the old?
   (I know zilch about them-I just spray contact glue and slap another disc which I have cut from aroll of floor paper, when the wheel gets too thick I remove them all and start again).Philip Marcou

2. 
   hammer1 | Dec 22, 2006 05:43pm | #14

   In the old days, we used a glue stick that was rubbed on the steel plate while it was running. Heat activated the glue and the longer the disc stays on the harder it sticks. Conversely, the disc can go flying if it doesn't stick well. There is normally a table half way to the disc that is not easily removable. As you unstick the top half of the disc and rotate it, the part you just got free goes under the table and sticks back down. You feel like Sisyphus pushing the rock. No matter how hard you pull on the free half, it won't budge.Now, some discs come with peel and stick glue. The same thing happens with the heat, only some discs come off in layers. Mostly because they are cheaply made. There isn't much room between the table and the disc to pile up discs on top of each other. The smooth back of one doesn't stick to the sandpaper of the preceding one well and, again, the disc can go flying. Shops that use a disc often may want to change grits without destroying the existing disc. It's nice to have a system that doesn't require solvents and scraping and keeps the steel plate clean.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

3. 
   philip | Dec 22, 2006 10:17pm | #16

   Thanks Hammer, I see now.
   Mine is home made- on the out board side of my lathe. At least I never have had flying disks. I can also change grit quickly, as the paper is not glued to the steel face plate-it is glued to a wood disc which is detachable from the face plate.Philip Marcou

4. 
   ptu | Dec 22, 2006 07:42pm | #15

   I guess your right, I kind of put that together, after.Duh

6. 
   mvflaim | Dec 21, 2006 09:28pm | #9

   I don't have much trouble but maybe that's because I have a home made 12" disc sander. Basically I made a box that I can attached to the bed of my lathe that acts as a table and attached a 12" circular disc made out of particle board to a face plate. Spin it on the chuck and clamp the table close to the disc and away I go. When it comes to taking it off I just peel it away. I do have to scuff up the surface of the particle board with some 80 grit sandpaper so the next disc will adhere properly. If I don't the edges of the disc will start to peel away. I take it you're talking about a commercial disc sander with a metal plate. That I have no experience with.

    

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/21/2006 1:30 pm ET by mvflaim

7. 
   bones | Dec 21, 2006 10:20pm | #10

   I use a product called goo-gone, works wonders at least the ones I have.  Before that I used a razor scraper. The kind you get at an autoparts store for removing window decals (if you live where the local government requires them).  I have a shop smith with the steel disk. Good luck.