Replies

1. 
   TomMGTC | Feb 10, 2005 05:54am | #1

   Any good quality furniture lacquer should be fine in this application. Veneer will move less than solid wood and laquer is used on solid wood all the time. This is the first time I have ever heard that one. I use ML Campbell or Wood Finisher's supply finishes most of the time. Their hi build laquer is very easy to apply with an HVLP rig.  

   Tom

   Douglasville, GA

   
   

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   Edited 2/9/2005 9:58 pm ET by Tom

2. 
   LeeGrindinger | Feb 10, 2005 07:10am | #2

   Robby, this sounds like a contact adhesive issue. Did you tell the veneer company you're intending on using contact? Are you intending to use contact adhesive?

   There are issues with contact adhesive. Finishes can destroy the bond if the adhesive is not allowed time to gass off. Contact is a poor choice for veneer, it's easy but not long lasting and risky at best.

   Lee

1. 
   RobbyP | Feb 10, 2005 07:40am | #5

   Hello Lee,

   Thanks for your comments.  I am using contact cement with this project for size reasons.  The reception desk is over 12 feet long with a radius front.  I approached the project with the clients with the two options of hide glue vs contact cement and they decided on the latter due to cost concerns.  (can't even imagine the vacuum bag on that one)  I must confess I have used contact cement with melamine backed veneers with not any issues at all.  Some projects going on 10 years.   I know a lot of purists out there will scoff at this but it has worked for me.

   Thanks again

   Robby Phelps RP Custom Woodworks

1. 
   LeeGrindinger | Feb 10, 2005 05:17pm | #6

   Robby, the point I was making is that the finishing issue is the contact adhesive, not the veneer and not the padauk. The caution you got from the veneer supplier is based upon that. You can use any finish you like on padauk, padauk veneer moves no more than any other. Contact adhesive does not fully harden so creep is the issue and creeping joints of any kind play havoc with film type finishes.I've heard many people say that contact adhesive works well for them, I know it's not a lasting bond but it does simplify construction. Not all woodwork is intended to last for a very long time.Be sure to allow the veneer to set throroughly, allow the adhesive to gas off as long as possible. Most of the problems that arise from using contact are because the finish is applied too soon. You can minimize your risk by waiting a week or two or even three before applying the finish.Lee

1. 
   RobbyP | Feb 10, 2005 08:49pm | #7

   Thanks Lee for the clarification and the info.  It is appreciated.  I was courious though about "hammer veneering"  this is a process that i know very little about and was wondering if you know any good sources on the subject?

   Thanks again,

   Robby Phelps RP Custom Woodworks

1. 
   LeeGrindinger | Feb 11, 2005 02:02am | #8

   Robby, I actually don't read much about this craft in books so I'd suggest you start a new thread looking for books on veneering. Hammer veneering is going to cost more than contact. It takes more time to accomplish. The plus is that, properly done, it will last as long as the rest of the piece, the down side is that you need hot hide glue and a deft touch. It can be done with PVA, yellow glue, and that's something to consider. I've never tried it with PVA but I'm sure there's someone here that could give you the basics.Lee

3. 
   Rich14 | Feb 10, 2005 07:21am | #3

   Robby,

   You need to ask them to explain exactly what they are cautioning you about. Both those woods finish beautifully with lacquer. However, an oil treatment of padauk really enhances it's grain, figure and fire. I would either use linseed oil or your oil/varnish first. With either I would then seal with ultra blond shellac. If you use your oil/varnish, abrade the surface with 4-0 steel wool before the shellac.

   Shellac will adhere to anything, including the poly below and the lacquer above. Use any kind of lacquer you want.

   There IS a downside to this whole process. The end result will be a beautiful surface film on brilliantly-colored wood with fantastic texture and detail. But the color will eventually darken to a uniform brown-maroon. Keep it out of strong light as much as possible to delay that change. Some pieces maintain their bright hue longer than others. Some darken very fast no matter how well you shield them.

   Rich

   Don't ever learn anything new. Rather than give you satisfaction that you know more than you did, it will only confirm you know less than you thought by opening horizons to things of which you had never dreamt and which you now must explore.

1. 
   RobbyP | Feb 10, 2005 07:29am | #4

   Thanks for your comments.  The company in question claims that the veneer moves enough to crack the lacquer finish.  They say that lacquer does not allow for any movement?  The veneer is quarter sawn so the movement will be minimal but I wanted to pose the question to the board and see if anyone has experienced similar problems.

   I am also very aware of Padauk's oxidization problems.  The clients are actually wanting a more dark orange color so they are anticipating the patina that Padauk takes on.  I have worked with the wood for many years and it is one of my favorites.  I have a rocker that I made out of Padauk about 4 years ago and it has taken on the most beautiful wine red color.  It is just gorgeous.

   Thanks again,

   Robby Phelps RP Custom Woodworks

1. 
   StevenTN | May 05, 2007 07:04am | #9

   I am building a piece of furniture out of Padauk and I noticed your comment on the rocker you built.  What type of finish did you apply?  I've tried a number of oil, varnish, poly combos but I am not totally satisfied.  Also, did your finish fill in the pores in the wood?  It seems that with the finishes I have used the pores turn white with exposure. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.