Replies

1. 
   boilerbay | Sep 25, 2008 02:55am | #1

   Try Brett-Guard at
   http://www.htcproductsinc.com/bgsg.html

   bb

1. 
   macsaygroup | Sep 25, 2008 04:41am | #2

   Thanks.  I took the info off the website.  Their ceiling mount product is less expensive than the regular mount(neither one being cheap).  However, I almost lost my thumb without using a guard so the cost is worth it not to havfe it happen again.  It also includes a riving knife and appears to apply holding pressure down and sideways to the fence.   Do you anyone who has used the system and what their experience has been? I plan to call the company for more info.  Macsaygroup

1. 
   boilerbay | Sep 25, 2008 05:24am | #3

   There are a few on this forum. Use advanced search and use "Brett" or "Brett Guard" or maybe "Bret" and I think it will start leading you to more info.BB

2. 
   MoWWorker | Sep 26, 2008 01:14am | #5

   I've had a BrettGuard on my PM66 for about 6yrs and I'm very happy with it.  Mine mounts to the far right end of the extension table.  It seemed the sturdiest and least likely to let my fingers get near the blade.  It was expensive, but I figured my fingers are worth it.

   My only issue is that it does not allow the use of most aftermarket splitters as they would interfere with the guard.  The only one I know of that would work with it is a small plastic one that mounts to the  insert.

   Good luck. 

1. 
   macsaygroup | Sep 26, 2008 06:55pm | #10

   Thanks.  Did you make the plastic splitter or purchase it.  If the latter do you remember the brand or where you got it  David  

1. 
   MoWWorker | Sep 27, 2008 05:57am | #15

   David,

   The splitter I was referring to is called an MJ Splitter from a company called Micro Jig.  I picked mine up at Rockler, but have not had a chance to install it.

   Jeff

2. 
   macsaygroup | Sep 30, 2008 04:30am | #21

   I just took my Rockler catalog to my shop at the beach this last weekend so I''l look it up this next weekend.  TY   David 

2. 
   davidbrum | Sep 25, 2008 07:24am | #4

   You might want to check out the Shark Guard. It is an integral splitter/dust collector/vertical kickback guard. Very easy to remove. Not too expensive either.http://www.leestyron.com/default.php

3. 
   forestgirl | Sep 26, 2008 06:19am | #6

   I used the Penn State guard for a few years on a Jet contractor saw.  It worked very well I thought.  The wide guard is sometimes inconvenient, but the guard is very adjustable, easy to mount, and easy to remove when need be (e.g., when using the saw as an assembly table).

   Mine was side-mounted, but I may be ceiling mounting it soon for the Unisaw.  No reason I can think of that it would work just as well there.  I think, though, the Brett Guard might be a better design, I just couldn't afford one at the time.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/25/2008 11:20 pm by forestgirl

1. 
   macsaygroup | Sep 26, 2008 06:56pm | #11

   Thanks David

4. 
   DJK | Sep 26, 2008 03:29pm | #7

   Why don't you build one and save a bundle of cash.
   DJK

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 26, 2008 03:57pm | #8

   Just to complete the suggestion about building your own:http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/blade_guard.pdfforestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   macsaygroup | Sep 26, 2008 07:14pm | #12

   Thanks again.  Unfortunately, time is a critical element in my life right now.  Still working (with a terrible financial market) , setting up new shop after moving it to New Smyrna Beach ,Fl( our weekend retreat).  maintaining and upgrading three properties. tennis, wife coming up with new projects all the time, secretary to our woodworking guild,  etc.  So I would rather spend my limited time during the weekends we are at the beach building cabinets, etc then have to build the bladeguard assembly.  The plans are quite extensive, detailed and I'm almost tempted to build it.  Maybe I can talk my father-in-law into it.  I'll take the plans to the beach tomorrow.  

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 27, 2008 06:11am | #16

   Just filling in the blank DJK left, LOL.  I keep bookmarks for stuff like that, so the links are easy to find.  I found the price on the Penn State guard made the decision (DIY v. retail) pretty easy.  It's bad enough having to spend all kinds of time building mobile base/cabinet units without learning metalworking at the same time.

   Good luck with you FIL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

5. 
   Jfrostjr | Sep 26, 2008 04:15pm | #9

   I have the Shark Guard and am very well pleased.

   I too looked at the Brett - at their factory. It is stout but there was no way I could mount the support structure on my saw setup. With the SG I just let the dust hose droop a little bit and don't worry about overhad support.

   Frosty

   "I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

1. 
   macsaygroup | Sep 26, 2008 07:14pm | #13

   Thanks David

2. 
   macsaygroup | Sep 26, 2008 07:19pm | #14

   It just dawned on me that I may lhave looked at the Shark Guard but it didn't seem that they offered one attached to the ceiling.  Where can I look them up again.  Thanks  David

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Sep 27, 2008 03:54pm | #17

   I will post pictures of my setup later this AM.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

2. 
   Jfrostjr | Sep 27, 2008 05:08pm | #18

   I am including the comments from another post of mine - this time with pictures. I think this setup equals a riving knife without changing saws. 43501.15 in reply to 43501.13
   I have begun to develop new ideas about using the Shark Guard:Current advice is to minimize blade height above the wood for safety. Good idea when there is no top guard but PERHAPS not valid when the blade is shielded as with a SG.It is a fact that the higher the blade is raised the less the action of the back teeth of the blade to propel things forward - "kickback".Therefore, why not raise the blade to maximum height as long as it is protected by the SG housing - and

   Doing so brings the blade almost as close to the SG splitter as a riving knife. Any thoughts out there?"
   Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

   
1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 27, 2008 05:13pm | #20

   Yep... I basically do the same thing...

   Sarge..

3. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 27, 2008 05:11pm | #19

   Just Google Shark Guard and you will get Lee's Styrone's web-site. He works a regular job and does it on the side creating a two month wait. That may not be suitable as you mentioned time if of essence. You could just build it your-self as I have done for a Uni-saw and Steel City 5 HP using a Penn State shield purchased separately.

   Sarge..