I am building a set of outdoor furniture with Mohagony in the near future. Since I have never had to deal with outdoor stresses, what do I need to know about special joinery/glue-up processes. I am sure the later isn’t any different, except the type of glue. I have heard epoxy tossed around some forums, but I cannot seem to find any that could be used for my purpose. If anyone has ideas let me know. Thanks for the help.
-John
Replies
...I cannot seem to find any that could be used for my purpose."
Is there something unique about what you're doing? I use West Systems epoxy for outdoor furniture. There are other brands. I haven't had any problems yet, and I have a set of white oak chairs outside summer and winter. Haven't heard of any problems from anyone I've done chairs for, either.
The West System epoxy should work fine. However, if you don't want to invest $30 plus to get started with the West System, those two small tubes of 2-ton epoxy will also work.
Chip
Regular wood glue is rated waterproof. There is no need to buy epoxy for outdoor furniture; in fact, I'd recommend against it. It is somewhat brittle when dry, and does not allow movement like aliphatic resin.
There are specific glues for constant water immersion, like urea formaldehyde, and others.Outdoor furniture doesn't need this type of glue; wood glue today has cross-linked polymers and is quite strong.
Edited 5/3/2004 11:52 am ET by JACKPLANE
Thank you for the input thus far. So many people in these forums spelled out doom and gloom if normal wood glue were to be used. I knew normal yellow wood glue was water resistant, I din't know it was water proof. So, what is the difference between the normal Titebond/Elmers and the "Waterproof" yellow glues I have seen at my local hardware store? On the Titebond website it talks about their glues having different "ANSI Type" waterproof ratings. I am assuming, like was said, it is for water emersion. I am guessing I would need the one with the highest rating then, right?
One thing, does it matter the outdoor furniture will encounter a yearly temp. swing of 100F to -10F (In chicago). Or is the humidity going to be the biggest concern? It just seems to me that outdoor furniture would have different concerns compared to indoor furniture. Maybe I am wrong, I don't know. Thanks again for the help!
-John
Titebond II should work just fine.
>>Regular wood glue is rated waterproof.
Not quite true. Standard PVA (white and yellow) will fairly quickly fail when it has be wetted. Type II PVA (Titebond II, etc) is rated "water resistant", not water proof. The ANSI Type II spec rates the adhesive for non-submerged water applications. Type II adhesives are fine for outodoor furniture. ANSI Type I adhesives (urea recorcinal, some epoxies, and the new "Type III Titebond) are rated "waterproof" for continuous submerged applications. They are somewhat an overkill for outdoor furniture.
John:
Ditto the West Systems epoxy. I have used it for Marine applications when completely rehabbing an old Boston Whaler. Rebuilt the mahogany center console and rear seat and also used it to fair and waterproof prior to finishing. There were many, many joints held together with the West. Five years later not a single joint has failed and it still looks good as new.
West Systems also works well with teak, which has its own issues with the oil. I built a solid teak garden bench and a rocker 9 years ago and still rock solid today. I would not hesitate in the least to recommend West Systems epoxy and a few well placed stainless steel screws in creating your outdoor pieces.
I will look into West Systems Epoxy and the Titebond II. Since both sound like a cannot-go-wrong solution, I will use the one I can easily find. Thanks for all of the input into my situation. I will be checking back in case someone else has something to add, which may very well happen. Thanks again!
-John
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