For the first time in my life, I am seeing an orange peel finish on the table top I am finishing.
I am using Minwax Polyacrylic Gloss. A new can and new brush/applicator.
Interestingly, a couple days ago I had the oil furnace serviced which is in my shop. Could an oil mist possibly have caused this? If the furnace tech let even a microscopic “cloud” of oil mist or combustion by-product loose into my shop would it cause orange peel? I had put on a number of coats prior to the furnace service call with no peel.
Whatever caused it, how do I fix it? Just sand hard enough to get through the last coat of finish? Clean the surface with ____?
I assume that if I simply put on another coat the peel will still be there but now underneath the new coat.
Replies
I don't think you are seeing orange peel. Orange peel typically is the result of poor atomization of a sprayed on finish that did not flow out properly before it began to dry. I have never heard of orange peel on a brushed or wiped on finish. I think what you are seeing is fisheye cause by an aerosol from your furnace guy. Usually fisheye is caused by a silicon product contaminating your finish. Fisheye is a finisher's worst nightmare, you can't see it until the finish is dry and it is almost impossible to get rid of. I would sand down the finish with 320-400 grit to below the craters and then apply your finish with a fisheye eliminator (auto paint store) added to the new finish. I have never used fisheye eliminator in a water based finish so I would ask the paint guy or call the company. I use a product called Smoothie and I add it to every gallon of lacquer I have ever sprayed. You usually worry about fisheye on refinishing projects because of silicon in polishes, but I have seen it show up on new projects when they did not take my advice about adding smoothie. You are probably going to have to strip,wash down with a product from S-W that is suppose to eliminate silicon and refinish, but try the smoothie first see if it works. Maybe another poster has a better idea.
You should also consider it the temperature was too low during the period when you applied the finish. Waterborne finishes are very particular, and not only the air must be warm enough the piece itself must have warmed up to the required 55° to 60°.
If temperature isn't it, I'd agree you may have a contamination problem, but using a fish eye eliminator should be the very last resort not the first, because it often means ALWAYS and forever having to use it. You now may suspect some silicone contamination, the fish eye eliminator assures it. And, more likely than the silicone is a simple oil contamination, much easier to remove than silicone.
Stripping and carefully wiping with copious solvent, using many paper towels so as not to spread it around. The work surfaces in the space where you were working may come in for this cleaning as well. Then, I would use a coat of dewaxed shellac before applying your finish. The best way of applying this would be to spray it by using the aerosol version or your own spray system.
Edited 3/27/2008 10:11 am ET by SteveSchoene
Steve,
Let's assume oil contamination. What solvent do you recommend?
Thx,
Dan
I would go with naphtha. It's a very light fraction and evaporates quickly.
Steve,
Whew, good answer. I just used naptha after sanding with 220. I'm dissolving shellac flakes overnight in alcohol. I plan on a couple coats to seal, then go gack to the water based coatings. And keeping my fingers crossed.
Dan
Occam's Razor would suggest it has something to do with the furnace repair.
Oil and water don't mix, generally speaking.
Edited 3/27/2008 9:41 am ET by charlesstanford
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