Replies

1. 
   mwenz | Mar 30, 2009 02:06am | #1

   Hi Walnutz,

   Good on ya for getting these back to working order. Side bead planes are a treat. Heck, I run a bead every once in a while on scrap simply because I like doing it...

   I would use liquid hide on the boxing, simply because I like hide glues.

   fwiw, side beads are pretty common to find in decent to great shape. Check with Lee Richmond, especially for the smaller sizes as might be more appropriate on furniture. Takes a big molding or scale of project to use a 3/4" bead. I bought the set below from him several years ago.

   View Image

    

   Take care, Mike

1. 
   Walnutz | Mar 30, 2009 06:39am | #2

   Mike

   Yeah, I agree with you on the sizes.  I have no use for 3/4" beads.  Even the 5/8" is bigger than I'll ever use.  I got that 1/4" working real good in pretty short order.  The boxing is loose, too, so I'm going to fix it with some hide glue.   These were not expensive, so I wasn't worried about cost.  I bought them to fiddle with, and 10 years later, I'm finally getting around to it.  I guess the slow economy is good for something. 

   On the 7/16" beader that I have, the blade was really messed up by a previous caretaker.  He/she really messed it up good.  I'm going to have to re-grind the profile, and flatten the back.  It's not even close to the profile of the bead.  It looks like somebody tried to take a rat tail file or something to it, as it's a total mess.  The wood and wedge are in good shape, and it just has some loose boxing, so I'm going to try and resurrect it.

   Thanks for posting the info.  I am really interested in getting a few more of these, as well as some H & R's.  I need to learn more about the tuning of these, and the relationship between the wedge being properly formed to keep the shavings from snagging in the mouth.  I guess trial and error is the only way to learn.

   I'd love to get a new set of H & R's, but C&W are real proud of their set, and the backlog is way longer than I'm willing to wait for something.  In your opinion, is this something that can be pieced together over time, or is it very critical to get matching sets?

   EDIT  BTW:  Do you have contact info for the fella you got your set from?  Thanks.

    

   Edited 3/29/2009 11:41 pm ET by Walnutz

1. 
   mwenz | Mar 30, 2009 08:05am | #3

   New and vintage tools.

   Name is Lee Richmond, The Best Things. Been a happy customer for years.

   http://www.thebestthings.com/vintools.htm

   Take care, Mike

1. 
   Walnutz | Mar 30, 2009 05:40pm | #5

   Thanks, again, to you and Mel.

1. 
   Walnutz | Mar 31, 2009 01:00am | #6

    Mike

   I was wondering if you had any input on tuning the wedge and mouth area of these types of planes.  My 1/4" side beader is jamming quite frequently, in an accordian fashion.  I read that it is usually because the tip of the wedge is ragged, and needs to be planed smooth.  In your experience, if you have any, is this the case?  I don't want to do any damage to the plane by planing off some of the tip of the wedge to get it smooth, unless I know it will solve the problem of jamming of the shavings.

   Thanks again!

2. 
   mwenz | Mar 31, 2009 01:20am | #7

   There have been a couple molding planes that have jammed on me. In both instances, the iron didn't make contact below the pressure of the wedge (they were slightly bent) and the end of the wedges both were raised from the back of the iron enough to get a shaving caught.

   In my case, I first straightened the irons so they had no/little influence on the end of the wedge.

   On one of the molders, the wedge also veered away from the back escapement. That one I had to make a new wedge and I used the old one as a rough template to keep the finial shape.

   One the other, the wedge was slightly warped and twisted so that the end of the wedge was lifted. This one had a pretty long wedge. So I carefully used my stationary belt sander to reduce the back of the wedge to the point of flat. Took but seconds. I did the same on the top of the wedge, but concentrated the pressure at the end where it was lifted up out of being straight from the main portion of the wedge.

   By sanding down the thickness, the wedge would insert too far. I kept inserting it with the iron in-place, marked the end, trimmed it, reinserted it until it was where I wanted the tip of the wedge to be with the wedge snug. Then I shaped the end like the other plane's finial (a bit of a chamfer tapering to the tip's furthest most corner). This needs to be so shaped to turn the shaving and allow it to easily eject.

   No matter what, the iron should bed and the wedge make full contact. But look at one that doesn't appear to jam if they are not resurrected yet and note how far up the wedge stops.

   Larry Wiliam's DVD on making traditional side escapement planes might be the best source for this. LN sells the DVD and it is available from the Clark & Williams web site. If you go this route, consider getting the DVD with Don about making moldings--at least if you think you will continue down the molding plane road.

   Take care, Mike

3. 
   Walnutz | Mar 31, 2009 01:55am | #8

   Mike

   Thanks for the great info.  I figured the problem was with the wedge, but I will also check to make sure that the iron is registering correctly on the bed.  I am determined to get these planes back in good order, and do wish to continue down the moulding plane road.  It is something that gives me pleasure, unlike building cabinetry all day long, which has gotten quite monotonous over the years.

   I've been thinking about those dvd's from C&W, and will check into them, as well.

   Thanks, again.  When I get the other three working properly, I'll post some pictures.  I just hope it doesn't take another 10 years!

4. 
   lwilliams | Mar 31, 2009 03:02am | #9

   Walnutz,Side beads can be some of the most challenging planes to get working properly. The cutting geometry is less than ideal and this makes diagnosing the problem difficult. There can be a number of issues that cause a plane to choke.I've been following this thread hoping you'd offer some clue that would tell what is a likely solution. There hasn't been such a clue yet. Can you post some close-up photos of the mouth, escapement and both the front and back of the iron?

5. 
   Walnutz | Mar 31, 2009 04:29am | #10

   I was hoping you'd get involved in this discussion.  I will take some pictures of the mouths tomorrow, and post them here.  I would greatly appreciate any help and insight you could offer in getting them working properly.  The only clue that I can give you right now is that on every pass, the shaving is jamming in an accordian fashion right in the beginning 1/8" to 3/16" of the mouth opening.  It seems to be hanging up on the tip of the wedge, but I'm not sure.

   I'm afraid that, other than the one I have working right now, the other 3 are in pretty poor shape.  I was checking them out at the end of the day today, and am concerned that I may have quite a bit of work to do before they'll even cut a shaving.  The irons are way out of shape on all 3, and the boxing is loose on all three as well.  The boxing on one seems to be warped, but that is on the 3/4" plane, which is the one I'm least concerned about.  I do cabinet and furniture work, and have never needed to cut a bead that large.

   The Chapin plane that is the best of the bunch is at least cutting a bead, now.  That is the one that has the problem with the shavings jamming on every pass.  I'll take some close-ups of the mouth, wedge and iron, and maybe you'll see what the problem is.  This plane was able to make a very nice, tearout free bead in trials, so I am hoping that with a little tinkering, it can become a quite effective user.

   Thanks for offering, and I'll get those posted tomorrow.

   Edited 3/30/2009 9:33 pm ET by Walnutz

6. 
   Walnutz | Apr 02, 2009 01:16am | #11

   Well, today I smoothed out the end of the wedge (it was a bit boogered up) with a block plane, and reflattened the back of the iron.  The shavings are shooting out the side, probably as designed, so no need to post any pics.  Thanks for the offer to help, and I'm sure I will call on you in the not too distant future as I delve into the mystery of the other 3, which are in much worse shape.

   You mentioned in your previous post that there are a number of reasons that can cause a shaving to jam up.  Would you mind, offhand, sharing what the most common are, so I can lookout for these problems as I recondition these planes.  That way, I can get on with it, hopefully without having to stop and write to you.  Thanks in advance.

   Edited 4/1/2009 6:19 pm ET by Walnutz

7. 
   dkellernc | Apr 02, 2009 02:14am | #12

   Walnutz -

   A couple of comments should you decide to purchase an antique set to use in your shop.  What Mel paid Patrick for his set of 9 side beads was either extremely inexpensive for a set of cabinetmaker's planes, a reasonable price for a set of pristine joiner's planes, or a relatively high price for a set of well-used (but without a great deal of problems) set of joiner's planes.

   My point here is that unlike buying a new bench plane, price comparisons are more difficult when it comes to wooden planes.  In particular, for molding planes, the price sensitively depends on whether the planes are joiner's or cabinetmaker's planes.  Cabinetmaker's planes have the iron pitched at (usually) 55 degrees and are made for tear-out free performance in hard woods, but they're more difficult to push.  Joiner's planes are made for performance in softwoods like pine, deal (spruce) or the softer hardwoods like poplar, and the irons are usually pitched at 45 degrees.  These are considerably easier to push, but will sometimes tear out hardwoods.

   The side-bead profile is one of the most sensitive to this problem, because it's usually almost impossible to fix the tear-out by sanding or scraping and not mess up the half-round shape.

   This is where finding a dealer that you can trust is important;  a set of 9 very well used (and probably near useless) British side-beads is worth about $200, if that.  A pristine set of 9 British cabinet-maker's side beads is worth about $350-$400, sometimes more if they're early and have collector's value.  A pristine set of 9 American cabinetmaker's side beads goes for about $600.

   This, by the way, is one reason that Larry can stay in business making new molding planes in the $100-$175 each range, because they're perfect, tested, have a very tight mouth (and thus prevent tear-out problems) and can be pitched at whatever you desire.  They've also got an iron that's made of good steel and is properly hardened - this is sometimes a problem in antiques, because there's usually a reason why a plane that's 100 years old is nearly unused.

   From the standpoint of getting yours working, I'd suggest using hide glue to re-attach the boxing.  The reason is reversability - if you mess up and don't get the clamping right, it's fairly easy to apply a little steam and get the boxing back out for another attempt.  You may also need to take some wood off to get a clean, straight track on the boxing, as sometimes it will warp enough to cause tracking problems.  One way to do this on a larger bead is to use a small round (a #1 or a #2 out of a hollows and rounds set), but you must be careful to remove wood in the right place so that the profile isn't "loose".  Another way is to make a custom scratch stock - I've used this method and it works very well, as it's fenced off of the side of the plane which is usually straight enough to the boxing tuned, although it's more work than the round plane method.

   Finally, a tip on getting the iron profiles back to the shape of the sole - use a small wedge of straight-grained hardwood to shim the iron at the front of the mouth, then use a scratch awl to scribe the profile.  You can then usually use files to re-shape the iron, though some irons will be hard enough that you'll  have to use slip stones or ceramic files to do it.

8. 
   Walnutz | Apr 02, 2009 03:24am | #13

   Thanks for the great information.  I shall absorb it, and try to apply it the next time I've got some time to tinker.  I sold a good job today (finally!), and I'll be back hard and heavy tomorrow in the shop.  When I get some free time, I plan on tuning up the 7/16" side bead plane, which has all of the problems you just mentioned.

   If you were buying these, would you care if it were American or British.  I only work in hardwoods, so the cabinetmakers planes make sense to me.

   I would happily buy new from Larry if I could get the tool sometime soon.  I'm happy that they are so backed up with orders, but that doesn't do me any good.  I probably would like to get just a couple of the smaller sizes at first, and go from there. 

   Edited 4/1/2009 8:27 pm ET by Walnutz

9. 
   dkellernc | Apr 02, 2009 06:55pm | #14

   "If you were buying these, would you care if it were American or British.  I only work in hardwoods, so the cabinetmakers planes make sense to me."

   Well, that depends on the purpose you have for them.  By and large, if you only want wooden planes to use, then British-made late 19th century planes are less expensive in this country.  However, I wouldn't hesitate to use a late 19th century American plane either.

   However, I'd be considerably more cautious about using a British plane made in the 18th century (though I do use them, just very lightly), and I wouldn't use an American plane from the 18th century at all.  The reason is respect for history - these planes are quite rare, especially the American ones, and are largely the only signed artifacts from this period in our country's history other than documents like deeds and wills.  It's for this reason that I would not even consider tuning an 18th century plane, nor one from the early 19th century from either country.

10. 
    Walnutz | Apr 02, 2009 09:56pm | #15

    After a few hours tinkering with these, I've discovered quite a bit.  Perhaps you can tell me where I stand.  I apologize up front for not knowing the correct terminology for some parts of the plane.

    I began work on the next plane.  The boxing, both front and rear was totally loose, and it was rocking in its groove.  I easily pulled it free (the longer rear piece), and it was not made flat.  It was crowned in the center, and that caused it to not seat properly.  I took a miter plane, turned upside down in my bench vise, and carefully planed the bottom of the boxing (the flat part that fits into the groove in the plane) just enough to get it flat.  It now sits very well in its groove, without rocking.  It took just a few passes, and I did not believe I effected the depth of cut, but I did the same to front piece, just so they were the same "height".  I plan on reglueing this with hide glue.

    The end of the wedge was a gnarly mess, and I flattened it.  However, I noticed something that I believe to be a serious problem.  The wedge does not bed itself against the sidewall, opposite the exit side .  Where the area of wood is removed to allow for the blade and wedge, it seems to have been either cut wrong originally, or boogered up since, because the wedge is about 1/16" to 1/8" away from the sidewall.  Is this a deal killer for repairing this plane?

    I also discovered that the blade is not ground to a 7/16" bead, but to a 5/16" bead.  My guess is that it is not the original cutter, but if the plane is salvageable, then I can fix that.

    I also discovered on the 2/8 (1/4") N. Chapin side bead plane that I was discussing earlier, the cutter back is not flat.  It has either been bent, or was flattened by someone only about half way up the back of the iron.  Is it ok the bend this back to flat with a ball peen hammer, or what do you suggest.  I read in my book about these that a flat back is critical.

    Keep in mind that this N. Chapin plane is already cutting a bead, and a decent one at that.  But, I know it can do better, and I'd like to see if I can get it to that point.

    I'll have more questions, but lets stop at this for now.

    Thanks.

11. 
    dkellernc | Apr 03, 2009 02:06am | #17

    " it seems to have been either cut wrong originally, or boogered up since, because the wedge is about 1/16" to 1/8" away from the sidewall.  Is this a deal killer for repairing this plane?"

    Hmm.  Well, there could be a number of causes for this, probably the most likely is that an antique dealer or flea market person 2 or 3 owners ago didn't understand that wedges on molding planes (or any other wooden plane, for that matter) are not interchangeable and mixed them up.  That said, the critical surfaces on a wedge are the front and back - one bears on the front of the wedge mortise, and the rear bears on the iron.  In fact, you don't want the wedge to bear on the sides of the mortise, because that could contribute to a stuck wedge, or worse, to a split plane when the wedge is tapped home to fix the iron's depth.

    However, 1/8" is a lot - most wooden planes in my possession are about 1/32nd of an inch narrower than the total width of the mortise.  What I'd say is to try the plane out.  If it works well, don't fix what ain't broke.  If it doesn't work well (shavings get clogged in the gap you mention, then you can try your hand at making another wedge.  It's not that hard, but does take some skill with hand tools.

    Re-shaping the iron for your 7/16" plane is not terribly difficult, but one thing to remember is that the iron's bevel must relieved not only parallel with the sole, but perpendicular as well.  Also, remember that the iron must extend past the sole at every point - just one little spot that drops below the sole while the rest of the iron is extended to take a cut will cause the plane to stall (it won't cut the molding).

    Finally, regarding the flat back on the iron:  I'm not exactly sure what you're talking about.  If you mean that the edge side of the lower part of the iron isn't flat as would be done with flattening the back of a plane blade during sharpening, that isn't necessary.  All you need is for the bevel and back to meet at a sharp point, and you can do that without a lot of work by just barely touching it with a carver's slip around the periphery of the cutting edge.  If you mean that the top of the iron is bent (the part that sticks out of the top of the plane behind the wedge), then you can simply bend it back - it's soft iron, and will bend easily.  It doesn't matter whether this part of the iron is perfectly straight - it will have no effect on the performance of the plane.  It will simply make it inconvenient to drive the iron down through the mouth of the plane in case you ever get the wedge so stuck that you can't remove it by hitting the back of the plane with a dead blow mallet.  By the way - never use the wedge finial to try to remove a stuck wedge - doing so will easily shear it off, and there are tons of planes on the antique market with this defect.

12. 
    lwilliams | Apr 03, 2009 03:00am | #18

    David,I don't agree with your literal interpretation of "cabinet pitch" planes being the only ones one should use for hard woods. I'm not even sure when the term "cabinet pitch" came into use or even what it is. I prefer York pitch or 50º for side beads or profiles that include a fillet or quirk. Profiles that include a vertical section or more than one like side beads end up cutting with a scraping action in the vertical areas and too steep a cutting angle will impair good shaving ejection. I think the lower pitched planes are much less prone to choking with these profiles and are a lot easier to maintain and keep working.With planes like hollows and rounds where there aren't inherent problems with cutting geometry then, by all means, look for middle pitch (55º) planes. I would avoid half pitch (60º) planes unless you have a specific need for them.For me, "cabinet pitch" is a term for collectors who really don't care as much for function as for rarity.

13. 
    dkellernc | Apr 03, 2009 04:54pm | #20

    "I don't agree with your literal interpretation of "cabinet pitch" planes being the only ones one should use for hard woods. I'm not even sure when the term "cabinet pitch" came into use or even what it is.

    I prefer York pitch or 50º for side beads or profiles that include a fillet or quirk. Profiles that include a vertical section or more than one like side beads end up cutting with a scraping action in the vertical areas and too steep a cutting angle will impair good shaving ejection. I think the lower pitched planes are much less prone to choking with these profiles and are a lot easier to maintain and keep working."

    Larry - I didn't mean to indicate that a 45 degree pitched plane is useless for a modern cabinetmaker;  quite the contrary, I've quite a few of these planes that get used in the shop.  That said, I've certainly noticed that the higher the pitch, the less problems with tear-out I've had, though you're quite right, the scraping-type cut that the outside of a convex profile (or a quirk) does reduce the life of the sharp edge.  I've not, though, had difficulty with shaving ejection, but I am quite careful to select as good a stock as I can for making moldings (in this case, "good" means as straight a grain as possible with no knots and no figuring).

    By "cabinet" pitch, I mean 55 degrees.  However, you're also quite right in that these terms (standard, york, cabinet, middle, and half pitch) were nowhere near standard among makers.  There's evidence of this in a half-set of hollows and rounds by Varvill and Sons that I have - the heels of the planes are very clearly stamped "skew" and the number of the plane.  These are all pitched at 55 degrees.  There's one odd-ball in the group, though, that's pitched at 60 degrees, and this one is clearly stamped "skew", #8, and "cabinet", so it would seem that Varvill's definition of "cabinet" was what we refer to as "half pitch".

    However, what I've found in the shop is that one can usually sand or scrape out a section of tear-out if it's not too bad on ogee and cove profiles, but for whatever reason, the very slight change in profile caused by sanding out a place with tear-out on a bead, astragal, or ovolo profile is really glaringly obvious when the molding is viewed with a bit of side light.  I suppose that's a personal interpretation and depends on how picky one is, but in my case I much prefer to deal with the extra effort required to push a plane with a portion of the profile in more of a scraping action than try to correct tear-out on the most convex (and most obvious) part of the profile.

14. 
    Walnutz | Apr 03, 2009 05:27pm | #22

    Thanks for all the input.  I'll let you know how it goes.

15. 
    Walnutz | Apr 02, 2009 10:00pm | #16

    Larry

    I posted some discoveries I made on these planes to Dkellernc.  Rather than rewrite it all to you, I wonder if you could just read that post.  I would greatly appreciate your opinion on the things I've found.

    Unfortunately, I have to describe what's happening, because I'm a lousy photographer, or my camera isn't very good, but all the pictures I try to take of the small mouth openings are coming out too blurry to see anything.  My daughter will be home from college this weekend, and I've already asked her to bring her camera with her.  We'll see if that works better.

    Thanks for any input you can give.

     

16. 
    lwilliams | Apr 03, 2009 03:00am | #19

    Walnutz,I'm not sure I have the inclination or time to try to describe all the possible problems with side beads. How about a brief list of steps and things to look for?1. If the body is relatively straight, repair the boxing as necessary.2. Straighten the body as necessary.3. Make sure the toe and heel sections of the sole are coplanar. You'll often find the toe out of line with the heel. This needs to be fixed and you may have to create reference sections to get this corrected.4. Make sure the bearing surface of the fence is straight. If you have to fix this work from the mouth area making it the reference area.5. If the body was more than slightly bent in length, you may have to replace the boxing with thicker boxing so that the boxing is where you need it.6. Rework the profile making sure that its depth and width are uniform the the reference surfaces you should have at this point. Keep in mind the profile has to be straight and uniform. You may well have to increase the size of the bead to get things right.7. Check the fit of the wedge. It needs to be tight against the iron and breast. It also needs to be tight against the blind side of the escapement. You may have to make a new wedge and rework the mortise to get things right. Leave the wedge a little long to make sure you can adjust its depth after the next step.8. Clean the wear area of the escapement. You want this area as smooth as you can get it with no proud or hollow spots.9. At this point, you need to check the bedding of the iron. It's unlikely you'll find the iron bedded properly.10. Flatten the face of the iron and then mark your profile from the sole. Rework the iron's profile as necessary.11. Cut a bevel on the new wedge or clean the old bevel at the tip. I like to set the point of the wedge about 1/8" up from the mouth or a little less.12. If you find the iron doesn't hold an edge in use, then you will want to re-harden the iron. After re-hardening and tempering you'll have some distortion that may make it necessary to refit the wedge and re-bed the iron. In my experience, re-hardening isn't usually necessary but it can be an issue.13. Work down the edge of the wedge that contacts the breast to where you've got the appropriate projection of the wedge above the body. You may want to compare your wedge projection to other planes you have. This will mean you need to also rework the bevel on the end a little.14. Examine the profile after a little use. Any highly burnished areas mean you're making contact there before you may want to. After a little use, the profile should have a uniform burnished look and high areas will burnish and maybe scorch quickly. Very lightly remove these high spots. You'll also want to keep an eye on where the depth stop is contacting the wood. It's best if this happens along the full length of the depth stop but initial contact right at the escapement area should be okay.I've just mentally worked my way through this and probably left out a few minor adjustments. I hope this helps.

17. 
    Walnutz | Apr 03, 2009 05:27pm | #21

    Thanks for taking the time.  Incidentally, I was thinking that I would really like to have a new sidebead plane as an example of how they are supposed to work, and fit, and feel.  Does your company have these readily available for sale as a stock item, or do you make them to order only?  I have read here a few times that your company has a pretty good backlog.  How long would it take to get one?

    Thanks again!

2. 
   9619 | Mar 30, 2009 05:28pm | #4

   46132.7 in reply to 46132.1

   Mr. Nutz,
   I agree fully with Mike W. (Always have, on just about everything). But I'll go a bit further in helping you out with the beaders.

   First of all, I want to apologize. You want a nice set of beaders and I just took one off the market. Here was the ad for it.

   WP54 Sound worker set of 9 graduated beading planes by Hields
   of Nottingham; many of the smaller diameter are slipped
   so that the fence may be removed to allow the plane to
   work custom profiles alongside hollow and rounds; with
   minor wear, diameters of 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 3/8", 5/16",
   5/8", 3/4", 7/8", and 1"; beads don"t often show up in
   this matching number, these have always been together
   and have the same owner stamp:

   http://www.supertool.com/forsale/t112.jpg
   http://www.supertool.com/forsale/t112a.jpg
   http://www.supertool.com/forsale/t112b.jpg $285.00

   -----
   You can check to see what they look like by going to those three photos on your browser. I am very happy with them.

   Mike told you about Lee Richmond. He didn't tell you about Patrick Leach. I am VERY HAPPY in my dealings both with Lee, who lives not far from me, and with Patrick, who is up in Massachusetts. Mike gave you Lee's website. Both Lee and Patrick are absolutely trustworthy. They describe stuff as it is. You pay more to buy from them than you would on EBay, but EBay sellers are generally not as knowledgeable, and not as trustworthy, so as you said, you can get junk when you were hoping for good stuff.

   YOu can find everything that Lee has for sale on his website. YOu chould also write to Patrick Leach at:

   [email protected]

   and ask him to put you on his monthly mailing list, in which he sends out what he has for sale each month. You can see his March list at:

   http://www.supertool.com/forsale/mar09sale.htm

   ------

   So what about gluing boxing??????

   I bought a set of snipe's bill planes from Lee. One of them needed to have its boxing reglued. Lee told me how he does it. He said to get a syringe (the kind of needle that the doctor gives you a shot with. That will enable you to get glue into a very narrow crevice. He said to use white glue, and water it down. You put liquid in the syringe by pulling back on the handle. It won't suck up white glue because it is too thick. So I started adding water a few drops at a time. After a while, the syringe would take up the glue, but reluctantly. I inserted a razor blade in the space between the boxing and the plane's body. Then I injected glue.

   Lee said to then remove the blade so the glue gets squeezed further into the opening. Then do it again about four times. Then clamp it.

   It worked like a charm.

   I hope that is useful to you. I am getting into wood planes in a big way. I have gotten a half set of hollows and rounds as well as the beaders. The reason is that I want to carve mouldings. The best way to get the profiles you need to carve is to use Hollows and rounds to make them, and beading planes to do the beads.

   I have found a bunch of info on doing all of this, and would be happy to share it with you. I also got a Stanley 45 to do the plowing that is necessary to prepare to use the Hollows and Rounds. It turns out that there is not a lot of folks who use Stanley 45s or who use Hollows and Rounds.

   Luckily we have Ray Pine and Charles Stanford here on Knots who are quite expert with the Hollows and Rounds. I can't find anyone who is facile with the 45, so I collected info from here and there and am learning to do it by myself.

   Hope you found this useful. I hope to keep up a conversation with you as we both learn to use the beaders.

   Have fun.
   Mel

   Measure your output in smiles per board foot.