Replies

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Oct 10, 2006 03:22am | #1

   There may be two problems.

   First, "grungy" chairs need the grung removed before refinishing. Normally, I wipe things like that down with mineral spririts using lots of towels to wipe it dry. I do it twice. Sometimes, using gray scotchbrite pad is necessary to get the surface clean.

   Now, sand the surface with 180 grit paper to get it ready to finish.

   Second, use a fresh finish. Something a year old is probably well past its prime. One way to test if a finish is still good is to apply it and see if it dries (gets tack free) and then give it the fingernail test a week later to see if it has cured. The best approuch however, is to just get new stuff. Finish is cheap in the grand scheme of things.

   At this point I would use a paint stripper and remove all the finish that has been applied. This will also get off the gunk and grung. Then sand and finish with new finish.

   Howie.........
1. 
   Joe Sullivan | Oct 10, 2006 03:25am | #2

   She removed the grunge and cleaned things up with Formby's, which I have never used. The finish was well over a year old -- should have been thrown away long ago. However, I was not here to tell her.I suppose there is no way around a redo?J

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Oct 10, 2006 03:31am | #3

   If you want a good job, strip and redo.Howie.........

2. 
   Gretchen | Oct 11, 2006 04:17pm | #8

   You could try one good wipe down with mineral spirits and see if it will be any better.  Can't hurt and might help.

   If it dries, get some fresh and put a coat of wipe on on.

   Removing one coat of varnish is not that big a job actually, so that is good.

   Tell her to use a wipe on varnish for the final job.Gretchen

1. 
   Joe Sullivan | Oct 11, 2006 04:39pm | #9

   Thanks to all of you for the suggestions.  I suspect she'll try the mineral spirits or Japan drier approaches first, and failing that, will just take the stuff back off.

    

   Joe

1. 
   EF | Oct 11, 2006 11:02pm | #10

   When you say a finish is too old, are we talking since it was opened or since it was made? Is there any way to tell how long ago it was made? What are the limits on an unopened can, 3-5 years?
   Thanks, Edward

2. 
   nikkiwood | Oct 12, 2006 08:39am | #11

   You may end up having to strip it off, but I too would wipe it down with paint thinner first.********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

3. 
   Gretchen | Oct 12, 2006 03:51pm | #12

   Personally, I think trying to use the Japan drier would further complicate this fairly simple problem.Gretchen

2. 
   seb | Oct 10, 2006 04:31am | #4

   This may be a stretch,,,but...rub it down with some japan dryer, If not start over..
   Bud

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 10, 2006 04:37pm | #5

   I'd be pretty reluctant to rub down with Japan drier.  If it does work in terms of getting the finish to dry, and I have never tried it, I would think it likely you would have a brittle finish with a short life. 

3. 
   tomg | Oct 10, 2006 08:29pm | #6

   It sounds like strip and start over is the only real solution. Ditto the other comments on using old finish. When I open a can, I write the date on the top of the lid so I will know exactly how old it is. I never use anything older than a year, and if the project is really special, I get a new can. For shellac, the open time after mixing a batch or using a can is less than 6 months. I read a review of varnishes in FWW and seem to recall that Tried and True had some drying issues like you describe. The obvious solution is to add Japan Dryer, or frankly to do something simpler and use another finish. I seem to recall in their test that Minwax Wipe On Poly was highly rated - and inexpensive to boot.
   Happy finishing,
   -Tom

4. 
   Sequim Tool | Oct 11, 2006 01:44am | #7

   You may just have it on to thick or in a confined room. It will need air to dry

5. 
   CStanford | Oct 12, 2006 05:10pm | #13

   Strip it and start over with fresh product. 

   You screwed up.  Don't prolong the pain.  Fix it right and move on.

1. 
   Joe Sullivan | Oct 12, 2006 05:30pm | #14

   Probably good advice, but it is not my project, and the party whose project it is would like to try the mineral spirits approach first.  The Japan Drier approach has been eliminated.

   I'll let you know what happens.

1. 
   CStanford | Oct 12, 2006 05:59pm | #15

   I doubt seriously if the mineral spirits solution will yield a satisfactory result, but the good thing is you won't have to wait too terribly long to find out.

    

   Edited 10/12/2006 12:49 pm ET by CStanford

1. 
   Joe Sullivan | Oct 12, 2006 06:09pm | #16

   I am with you, but it is cheap, easy, and fast, and if the chairs must be restripped later anyway, then so be it.