Replies

1. 
   joinerswork | Aug 26, 2009 08:33pm | #1

   Tex,

   First thing that comes to mind is a "filler" rail attached to the back side of the existing top rail- between the posts- 1" thick that will allow you to move the hinges back flush with the rear posts.

   Ray

2. 
   gofigure57 | Aug 27, 2009 04:25am | #2

   Bo,

   If you are not stuck with having the lid being a solid slab, rip it so the seam lines up with the top back rail and fix the rip to the rail and corner posts , hinge accordingly.  Outside of what Ray said I do not see many ways out.

   Tom.

1. 
   texasbobo | Aug 27, 2009 06:27am | #3

   Actually, along that same line, since there's a 2" overhang on each side from the top, can I notch the top at the posts to be flush to the back rail?  Would that allow the top to fully open, say at least 90 degrees?  Maybe I'd have to notch the top slightly farther past the back rail to open 90+ degrees or it might bind on the top of the posts.  Great suggestion, thanks!

3. 
   brucet9 | Aug 27, 2009 10:13am | #4

   Why would you notch around the posts?

   I like Tom's suggestion of ripping the lid. You could use a v-router bit to scribe a groove along each side of the lid a couple of inches in from each edge so that the ripped section is disguised as part of a decorative detail.

   BruceT
1. 
   texasbobo | Aug 27, 2009 04:53pm | #5

   The reason for the notch around the posts was to allow the top to fully open, given that the hinge point is at the back rail.  Help me understand this rip idea...if I rip the entire length of the top, I'd need a gap between the split pieces of the top equaling the thickness of the top, which is 1", correct?  Otherwise, the top wouldn't be able to fully open. 

1. 
   brucet9 | Aug 27, 2009 06:49pm | #6

   You would need a big gap only if the hinges pivot at the bottom edge of the lid.You could use something as simple as a piano hinge secured to the edges of the ripped top pieces, or any of a number of styles of offset hinges that bring the barrel of the hinge to the top edge of the lid - sort of like hinges on your front door. With 1" thickness, SOSS invisible hinges might work very well with a tight fit and nothing showing when the lid is closed.Try these links for a hundred or so hinge choices:
   http://www.rockler.com/CategoryView.cfm?Cat_ID=45
   http://www.woodcraft.com/Search/Search.aspx?query=hingesBruceT

   Edited 8/27/2009 11:50 am by brucet9

1. 
   texasbobo | Aug 27, 2009 07:15pm | #7

   Oh, I'm following you now--we're talking about two different hinge locations.  You're referring to mounting the hinge at the rip location, either on top or using an invisible hinge in the thickness of the top.  I was trying to still maintain the back rail as the mounting location and use the torsion hinges to keep the lid from slamming shut.  Given that the torsion hinges mount to the back rail, would the notch in the top at the posts, work?  Thanks.

1. 
   brucet9 | Aug 28, 2009 05:29am | #8

   My first impression of notching the top is that it would look strange. Second thought is that it might be an excellent device for pinching little fingers.That leaves three choices, as I see it:
   1. Rip the lid and find a non-hinge device on Rockler or Woodcraft or other hardware supplier that would spring your a lid open.
   2. Cut the lid down to the size of the sides of the chest so that your torsion hinges can work. Maybe a round-over or slight bevel on the edges of the lid would look good and the smaller lid would enhance the visual impact of the post corners of the box.
   3. Leave the lid the same size as now and add a filler rail at the back as Ray suggested, so the torsion hinges would be aligned with the post corners. The back side is likely going to be against a wall anyway, so it wouldn't matter that it doesn't look like the front.Good luckBruceT

   Edited 8/27/2009 10:41 pm by brucet9