I am finishing an entertainment center made of oak plywood and red oak . I intend to stain it to match other furniture. Do I need to use something to fill in the grain before I put on the stain?
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Replies
The good news is oak is one of the woods that accept most stains & topcoats very well.How are the pieces you are trying to match done. Pores filled ? not?. That should answer your question. You get a much smoother finish by filling the pores,but it is more work.
Regards
Jerry
The pieces are not matched. What do you recommend for filling the pores? I have some experience with shellac on hardwoods, but not with stains.
Thanks
I use an oil bases filler-longer work time-Personally I use a filler with a darker color _to accent the grain. If you are going to stain do so before using filler, after your final sanding,apply a wash coat of shellac before you topcoat.RegardsJerry
hello, Jerry. i am also making a project of the same materials and i need to color/stain it burgundy/brown to match wainscoting and trim( for a client) due to the price and time constraints , i do not wish to fill, but am concerned about blotching, as i have never used oak ply before. i am looking for a relatively simple but durable finish. the ply is for a glassware storage racks and is in an alcove so only the interior of the shelve s can be seen and these will be covered in bar matting and beer and highball glasses.i am doing this project for my friends bar and i want to hopefully get more commissions from it so i thought i would take more time and effort than the actual price, but keeping it reasonable.any advice would be appreciated .. thanks.
Blotching is not one of oaks sins. It will take stain well, though some dyes don't penetrate the inside of the pores. Frankly I prefer the look of unfilled oak, with a "in the wood" finish since it is so hard to fill the large pores of oak. A oil/varnish coating such as Watco looks good. The only risk here is that the Watco "bleeds" out of the pores making ugly "shiny spots". But all you have to do is check it frequently and wipe them off as they occur. Its only a problem after the first couple of coats.
If you do want to fill you can use products like Behlen Pore-O-Pak. After sealing with a 1 lb. cut wash coat of dewaxed shellac, it needs to be thinned with naptha, brushed on, and then wiped off across grain after it begins to set. It will probably take two applications, with about 48 hours between them to get a full fill. After the second filling coat you should wait a week before applying a top coat. There is risk of leaving too much of the filler on the surface, not just in the pores. If this happens you get a muddy look. This is more of a risk with plywood than with solid wood because you can sand off any dried excess more aggressively on the solid wood. Veneer on today's plywood is so thin that great care must be taken while sanding. This filler can be colored just about anyway you want including dramatic contrasting colors. I usually use artists oil paint to add the pigment to the "natural" filler.
Do I need to use something to fill in the grain before I put on the stain? RED OAK YA BET YA DO!
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