Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Nov 30, 2004 12:02am | #1

   Assuming you don't want a mounted bookcase, you could drill through the studs with a 3/4" bit,  insert a 3/4" dowel every other bay and beef up the shelving to 1 1/2" or more and mount on the dowels.

1. 
   Splinter6 | Nov 30, 2004 12:13am | #2

   Thanks. yes that's seems a good idea. My studs are currently exposed ( no wallboard ) so it would be easy to drill.

2. 
   JohnWW | Nov 30, 2004 12:21am | #3

   Two comments:

   1.  The usual method to create invisible supports is to drill into the wall's studs and install steel rods that will stick out almost the full depth of the shelves.  The back edge of the shelves are then drilled to slide over the rods.  This requires very careful drilling of both the wall and the shelves to keep the shelves flat and evenly spaced and the rods need to be a fairly snug fit in the holes.  All in all it isn't a job to be tackled lightly.

   2.  Anything stored on open shelving in a kitchen will, within a few days, becomes dirty enough to need washing before it is used for serving food.  There is a reason why 99 plus percent of all modern kitchens use cabinets, especially since open shelving would be considerably cheaper.  Restaurants keep some plates on open shelving, but only ones that are used daily.

   John W.

1. 
   Splinter6 | Nov 30, 2004 12:49am | #4

   Thanks for your advice. The 'dirty dishes' issue is well noted. My wife would go ballistic over that.Your comments about accuracy of drilling gives me pause.
   I don't think I'm that good. I'll mull that one.I was wondering if I could indeed use brackets,( say 9" galve right angled) and router the studs and the bottom of the shelf boards to recess them. The wallboard would cover the legs, and I'could run a 1/2" board over the arms so they'd be hidden.
   Comments anyone?

3. 
   MStehelin | Nov 30, 2004 01:50am | #5

   I saw the bracket less shelf for sale at IKEA

4. 
   byhammerandhand | Nov 30, 2004 09:54pm | #6

   Another way is to create a "torsion box"  -- make the shelf a torsion box and leave the back open.  Screw a cleat into the wall studs and attach the torsion box over it to become one construction.   There's no fussy alignment with a drilled hole or sagging.

   Steve Shanesy built a set of these in Popular Woodworking a few years ago after seeing the idea in a commercial.

1. 
   JohnWW | Nov 30, 2004 10:46pm | #7

   The torsion box design has a weak point, the box itself is strong, but it is difficult to get a strong enough attachment of the cleat to the wall or the box to the cleat to make full use of the box's strength.  In fact the primary purpose of the torsion box is to keep the weight of the shelf itself low to reduce the strains on the cleat and the shelf attachment. 

   The commercial versions that I have seen of this design carry labels warning against placing more than 15 or 20 pounds on the shelf.  The design is useful for displaying lightweight objects, but the shelves are not designed to handle books or kitchen gear.

   John W.

1. 
   jackplane | Nov 30, 2004 11:37pm | #8

   Some good points, you raised.

   I think the main problem is cantilevered weight, but I think even an inexperienced woodworker could build this shelving with 3/4" dowels wood or metal into studs, then use a torsion box with the bottom attached after the shelves were level.

    They could then be pinned from below into the dowels.