Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Jan 11, 2008 04:59am | #1

   I apologize for not responding sooner, time has been flying since the New Year started, I didn't realize your questions had been sitting for so long.

   Question #1. Yes there was an occasional problem with the panels lifting, but it was never more than an occasional minor annoyance. A lot of people who built the bench did either add a ledge as you described or just routed a ledge into the sides of the well. The updated plans for the bench will almost certainly have this modification, since it is also easier to build in that the height of the pipes doesn't need to be set so precisely .

   Question #2. I would make the well a bit wider to accommodate the 12 inch shelving width, although just a bit narrower, say 11 1/2" to allow trimming off the bull nose often found on the shelving.

   Question #3. Both the lower wedge and the long back bar are attached to the 1/4' plywood base. The addition of the wedge occurred just before the article went to print and we couldn't modify the drawings. I see no advantage to having the long bar separate.

   Question #4. A second stretcher to support a shelf just didn't occur to me, but I have found that shelves under benches are major dust collectors so I don't care for them. I will certainly consider adding a shelf as a variation to the basic plans.

   I would definitely like to see the plans you drew. If you have read other postings about the bench you probably already know that I am planning to finally offer a set of plans for the bench. I trained as a traditional pencil and paper draftsman and I have been wondering whether I should draw the plans that way or with a CAD program like Sketchup. Seeing your plans would help in making a decision. I have already suggested that another poster looking for plans get in touch with you.

   I hope this adequately answers your questions and again I am sorry for being so slow to answer.

   John White

1. 
   Fritters | Jan 11, 2008 06:53am | #2

   Thanks for the input. 

   1.          Re the bottom shelf, I'm planning on having the shelf be modular like the top pieces, perhaps 2 or 3 to allow for easier cleaning.  <!----><!----><!---->

   2.          Ledges for the top MDF: a thought from Jeff on Lumberjocks blog caused me to plan to make the ledge out of either ply or MDF (probably ply since MDF has the soft core and screwing into the sides of the well could be a concern... not sure.  But the reason for NOT using wood is the swelling/shrinking of the ledge which would cause the top MDF to be either below or above the bench top surface.   Rabbetting could have the same problem with shrinkage and no easy way to adjust if you're off by a bit with pressure when doing a long rabbet.  I think 3/8 or 1/2 ply screwed in and drill the front vice holes right thru it.<!----><!---->

   3.          I certainly like not having to be exact on the hole locations for the end clamp pipes.<!----><!---->

   4.          Wider well is what I'm planning as well (no pun).  I like the idea of having the end clamps a little further apart.  BUT I'm planning on leaving enough room between the insides of the well and the pipes to allow for the adjustable portion of the Pony clamps to take the place of your speed pins and washers.  Easier to snug the clamp up to the work and then tighten, just like the end clamps.  It means buying another set of clamps and "wasting" the adjustable portion of the extra set (not really since I have another idea for those), but pony clamps, especially from <!----><!----><!---->China<!----><!---->, are pretty cheap.  And it avoids having to drill the pipes.<!----><!---->

   5.          I certainly like not having to be exact on the hole locations for the end clamp pipes.<!----><!---->

   6.          Re the extra  adjustable portion of the extra set of clamps.... I thought that if I use the portion of the long pipes that I cut off... Screwing those screw portion of clamps on and drilling holds in the top surface of the bench and voila', I've got adjustable holddowns! (if there'd be enough sideways pressure to wedge it in there.  I'll have to try.)<!----><!---->

   7.          I'm thinking of using 2 x 6" for the well.  I'm building the bench to 40" and that helps re height and also gives a deeper well.  I'm planning on removable sections of MDF as a shelf at the bottom of the well to give me a tool tray of sorts.  Removable lets me clean out dust, etc.  The pipe supports have to rotate even if I have shelf material there so would have the support sit one MDF thickness up and rotate over the bottom MDF shelf.  May not be a concern 'cause I may not even need those supports if the top MDF sits on ledges.  I doubt the pipes would need the support.  <!----><!---->

   8.          I was wondering your thoughts about having the spreaders low, down by the base to leave room for a later cabinet to replace the shelf.  Would I lose much stability?  or would that and the well at the top make it rigid enough?<!----><!---->

   9.          Do you have any such bench on "lockable" wheels?  They're cheap but I'm concerned that lateral pressure might make the bench slide when just the inch or so of each wheel is contacting the garage floor.  If that's the case, then there are retractable casters like those that go on power saws that will let the bench right down on the floor when not being wheeled.  <!----><!---->

   10.      Lower wedge.  Any reason it couldn't be screwed to the removable bar and eliminate the 1/4 inch ply?  e.g. what does the ply add?<!----><!---->

   11.      I've order the barrel clamps to join the legs to the stretchers.  Am going to use Jeff's thoughts about attaching the top to the top of the legs with bolts to make the whole thing "knock-down-able".<!----><!---->

   12.      Joining top members.  You've essentially created horizontal pocket screws.  Any reason to NOT use a Kreg system?  I can't see any real difference and it's certainly simpler drilling.  <!----><!---->

   13.      I'm planning on 'recessing' the front piece of the well by the pony clamp to minimize the amount that the clamps stick out past the end while still giving me room to spin the clamp without hitting my fingers (thanks to Lumberjocks discussion)<!----><!---->

   14.      I'm thinking about making the top wedge easily removable/attachable as well since I don't know how much planing I'll do.<!----><!---->

   15.      I'm thinking about NOT having the screw portion of the pony clamps on the end vice stick up past the top surface.  Since you employ a removable piece of wood to be the clamping surface at the adjustable end of the clamp, I'm thinking that I would use a second piece of removable wood at the screw end.  That would keep the bench all one height when the clamps not being used.  Making the well out of 2 x 6" gives me the luxury of mounting the clamp lower.<!----><!---->

   16.      In contrast, I think the piece of wood on the front clamp could be "reversible".  One long surface has notches to fit over the clamps that puts the top of the wood at bench surface height.  Flipping over and the wood sit on the clamps higher and extends up over the bench height to allow clamping on the bench top against either wood against the other ends of the pony clamps (as the end vice has) or against bench dogs.  The two notches would be up but not a problem I don't think.<!----><!---->

   I'm attaching my a PDF image of my sketchup file.  It's a work in progress and doesn't have all details such as well shelf relation to the supports, front pipes or holes.  It was mostly for me to plan to end up with the bench at 40" right now.  <!----><!---->

   <!----><!---->

   <!---->Eric <!---->

   
1. 
   Fritters | Jan 11, 2008 06:59am | #3

   Here's the current version of my Sketchup file (three views) for those interested.