I need a little help in buying a new table saw. Right now I have a Ryobi BT3100. It was fine as my first table saw but now I want to upgrade. I also want one that is fairly easy to adjust if necessary. The BT3100 is anything but………According to the manual you just about have to take the thing completely apart to adjust for say run out or such. I really don’t want to have to do that to tune it up. I also want a cast iron table. Let me give you a little background that might help with your suggestions. I’m 5′ 4+”, female, and 69 years young. I built my own workshop, ran the water and phone lines but had the electricity installed by a pro, so I’m not a “helpless little old lady.” All suggestions will be more than welcome.
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Replies
My advice would be to develop a budget, maybe while looking around to get an idea of what is out there and at what price.
Then you can basically decide between a contractor type saw, a hybrid which is a mixture of contractor features and construction and usually has at least a partial cabinet, and a full cabinet saw. Basically the difference between the hybrid and the cabinet saw is motor horsepower, and how the trunnions which hold the motor and blade assembly mount to the saw.
I am sure there are many people alot more knowledgeable than me who can help.
Also you need to consider that most better saws need 220 volts to operate. Some will operate on 110 but are not as efficient in terms of horsepower and cutting ability.
Webby
Edited 5/5/2008 8:08 pm ET by webby
220 won't be a problem. My electrician works cheap, it's my son-in-law and he is an electrician by trade so for a good Sunday dinner he'll be glad to do it. Thanks for the in put.
If you can go up to a cabinet saw, you will find it both easer to align and, needing it much less often.
If you are close to a Woodcraft store I would go in and check out the Steel City line of saws. I think they carry Rikon as well and you would be able to put your hands on one and maybe even use one they have in the back room. I would stay away from Delta because Dewalt is running them into the ground. Grizzly makes a good reasonable saw , but you can't put your hands on one unless you know somebody who has one. Budget is a big factor in choosing tablesaws. If you are not close to a Woodcraft store check out the Craftsman hybrid at Sears. It is not great but it might do what you want out of a saw. Going from a Ryobi, a hybrid might be all you need. I would pick a hybrid over a contractors saw. Whatever you get make sure you have help setting it up.
Good thought. Woodcraft just moved their store in Houston from one side of town to the other and it's now more convenient at least for me. I know I can get a hands on from them. Thanks
I forgot to mention that Woodcraft also stocks Sawstop. If budget is not an issue, they are hard to beat for safety. FWW has a video on the new Sawstop contractors saw on the website. The PM2000 is an excellent saw, but that is like going from a VW beetle to an F250. It is a great saw.
Terry
Terry,
"away from Delta because Dewalt is running them into the ground"
I know that Black & Decker owns DeWalt, but does B&D also own Porter Cable and Delta?Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Chris,
I am sorry to say, yes. B&D is the parent company of PC, Delta and Dewalt as well as B&D tools. I have no idea why a company would buy an established name (better then theirs) and run it into the ground. My tool supplier in is not even going to handle Delta and PC after his inventory runs out because the quality has dropped of the table and getting parts is becoming a nightmare. John White at FWW recently sent out a post to this effect. I would be leary of anything Delta or PC right now (I have a lot of PC tools, when they were still PC, yippee)
Terry
Yep, they own Delta and Porter-Cable, and Biesemeyer.
http://www.bdk.com/
hi, the last 5 porter cable ros that i bought went belly-up within one month of daily, average use. im not hard on tools. i for one will not purchase any tool made by black and decker.
eef
Chris, I have a Delta hybrid and have had the worst experience with the quality. I have posted on several sites about this saw.
The table actually had ridges of cast iron on it! It took a local shop 2 visits to my shop to align the d... thing. I would rate it as the worst purchase I have made in the past 10 years. It will go away at some point and time.
Bought the Jet lathe today, I wish I had a dial caliper to verify the quality.
AZMO <!----><!----><!---->
-----------_o
---------_'-,>
-------(*)/ (*) http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com
When you talk about "ridges of cast iron", do you mean that it's not perfectly smooth, that you can feel the machining marks as well as see them? Or do you mean worse. I have noticed the "embossed" circular machining marks on newer Delta tools. I would hesitate to buy any new Delta tools, though I would buy older ones.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
The raw cast iron was machined to a level surface with multiple passes across the entire surface. Mine had a 1/16" wide 10" long patch of raw cast iron sitting about 1/64" above the surface. No problem for a flat file but says alot about the Quality Control.
The tool service company that Delta paid to come out has had a lot of issues with this hybrid saw and trying to get it set up proper, parallel the the table, centered in the space and parrallel when used at 45 degrees. Two trunnions to adjust no problem, but the rotating bars under the saw that are ecentric which have to be adjusted with the trunions is a real matrix puzzle. About the time you have them set and it seems perfect you tighten them to spec and it all goes out of wack. So you have to adjust them so that when you tighten them they are perfect. Trial and error for over an hour both times. Still not perfect, ie within .005 tolerence. It is about .01 and I have to be observant of its travel against the rip fence. It pulls to the left and away from the fence ever so slightly.
You get what you pay for, and this will work for awhile but I will end up replacing it at some point. <!----><!----><!---->
-----------_o
---------_'-,>
-------(*)/ (*) http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com
I also started with a Ryobi, eventually replacing my original BT3000 with a BT3100 when the first one gave out. Just about a year ago, I ran into trouble keeping the miter fence on the sliding miter table locked down, to the point that no matter how much I fussed with it I didn't trust it and actually worried it wasn't especially safe to continue operating it.
So right before Easter last year I took advantage of a Home Depot sale and picked up a Ridgid TS3650 for $450. In most ways, I really like the saw -- for a contractor's saw, it seems well thought out and solid -- and easy to adjust. I bought it as an interim saw, figuring that I'd best wait to buy my "last" table saw (I'm 60) until (a) new saws with riving knives came out and (b) the Sawstop contractor's saw finally started shipping.
The one reservation I found I had with the TS3650 is I felt very uncomfortable without a riving knife -- the Ryobi had spoiled me. The stock blade guard on the Ridgid is easy to take on and off, but it leaves what looked to me like an enormous gap between the back of the blade and the splitter. I quickly ordered a SharkGuard, since there are three different-sized splitters that come with it, allowing me to fill some of that gap when I didn't have the blade cranked all the way up. But I never got really comfortable with it.
The Ridgid saw is going on Craig's List soon, because my "last" table saw gets delivered tomorrow -- a 3 HP cabinet saw from Sawstop. My discomfort with the Ridgid (and one scary encounter with a spinning down blade) in the end drove me to the purchase.
If budget were more of an issue for me, I'd have looked real hard at the new Steel City offerings. I recently purchased a 14" Steel City bandsaw and I'm impressed with the fit and finish.
For ease of alignment and overall quality, accuracy and dependablility it's hard to beat a good cabinet saw. I use the PM2000 from Powermatic because it has a full set of innovative safety features, is built like a truck, is easy to use, easy to align and then stays aligned. Besides that, it looks really good in the shop but that comes last on the list of why it's a must have.
I have a bunch of table saw reviews (including the PM2000) at the link below that might be of help in your decision process.
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/index.html#ts
Tom Hintz
Because there is always more to learn!
TX, it's kinda hard to make suggestions without an idea of your budget. As mentioned above, if it's pretty liberal a SawStop would be a great choice. It's a fine saw with that extra safety feature of being a non-carnivorous beast.
Several saws have or will have soon a riving knife instead of a traditional American splitter. PM2000 and SawStop do currently, not sure which others.
In the "Best bang for the buck" category is the Steel City cabinet saw that's on inventory reduction sale at the moment, the 2nd item listed on this page.
Dont forget to take a look at the owners manual as part of your decision making process. Some hybrids are easy to adjust and some are a pain in the butt.
Cabinet saws will likely be much easier. I have the current SawStop and I was amazed how much easier it was to adjust vs. my old DeWalt Hybrid.
Stupid question-
So what technically is the difference between a Riving knife and a splitter?
A riving knife is almost as wide as the saw kerf and arches over the top of the blade, just above the teeth. It moves up and down with the blade. A splitter sits behind the blade, does not arch up and around the blade, and is stationary.
A riving knife provides additional safety over a splitter.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Thanks
Mike, sorry man... but you're incorrect on one point.
"...A riving knife is almost as wide as the saw kerf and arches over the top of the blade, just above the teeth..."
A riving knife sits just below the arc of the blade, thus allowing full plow cuts. Anything that is above the blade would have to be removed for this type of cut.
"A riving knife sits just below the arc of the blade, thus allowing full plow cuts."
You are correct, of course. My description was quick and, as a result, innacurate. ;-(
By "just above the teeth", I was trying to describe the fact that a riving knife's profile follows the circumference of the blade and is close to the teeth no matter where the blade is positioned.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
I knew what you meant anyhow.
I understood also, Mike. In the spirit of "a picture is worth....."
From just4fun.org SawStop review:
View Imageforestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Hey, is that a shark in your tablesaw? ;-)
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
That's nice looking machine.
Wasn't there a thread about making a riving knife for
the bosch 4000 ? I can't remember the name.
It would appear that the Bosch 4100 has a riviing knife as stock equipment, and a rather interesting blade guard to boot. I'm not at all in the market for this saw, but here's the link.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Being the old cuss I am..
has a riviing knife as stock equipment.
I'd say it is a splitter. Nothing wrong with that. However I thought a riving knife was not exposed above the blade diameter?? I just wonder. I have been wrong many times.. I think some of the new saws state riving knife and it is still a splitter with a better design?
Thanks for the link. Seams like I'll be working a little safer from
now on. Yeah I know the Bosch doesn't keep up with fine woodworking. But in
my mish mash of a life it's wears a lot of hats. Thanks again.
Not putting down the Bosch, it's a neat saw! I've recommended it to a couple of friends who were trying to squeeze alot of tools into their half of the garage. It's probably a much better saw in some ways than the old blue Jet I just ditched for a Unisaw!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I have a Bosch and feel safe to say its a good saw...but!
The miter gauge is not the most accurate in the world (lots of slop)
The saw is heavy and if you've got to move it, it can be a hassle. That's why I have it mounted to a table with locking casters.
and I found the blade guard and splitter a real pain to install and uninstall.
I highly recommend building sleds for various crosscutting and mitering applications. It greatly increases the accuracy and versatility of any saw!
On the other hand their warranty and service are good, and the power is excellent for a saw in its class. So overall I would have to recommend the saw for a weekend warrior!
Chaim
Make your own mistakes not someone elses, this is a good way to be original !
Edited 5/11/2008 4:18 pm by chaim
Well, I'm afraid I have to tell both you, Tbagn, and Mike Hennessey that you're both right. There are two different patterns of riving knife, and I've been using saws with both types since the early 1970's. Below is an image of each pattern. Slainte.View Image View ImageRichard Jones Furniture
Well, I never thought I was wrong; just guilty of a poorly-worded post -- till now. You, sir, have now proven me wrong in your efforts to prove me right! ;-)
Never saw a riving knive like that first pic before. Go figger.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Glad Mike pitched in, I just got back online. All new table saw designs in the USA henceforth will be reqiured to have riving knives. A big DOH! for America, LOL. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
As Forest posted ,,
She who is also a 'LADY OF CLASS' ( sometimes I wonder by her posts! :>) )
In the "Best bang for the buck"
I have a Ridgid.. Yes the Big Box Table saw.. It works great! I also had a Ryobi BT3100. Or was it a 3000? I forget.. LONG ago.. I made over all the inside of my house and cut siding for all the outside with it! I'd say that little slider saw was wonderful! It WAS a GREAT little saw! The inside was all red oak and the outside was cedar.. ALOT of WOOD cut in any case!
I'm 5' 4+", female, and 69 years young. I built my own workshop, ran the water and phone lines but had the electricity installed by a pro, so I'm not a "helpless little old lady."
LOL.. I had a good belly laugh on that one.. My Mother was 92 late last month and she worked in a Coal mine! OK, so just bringing food and water to the men working really hard down below. As she told me.. She never went to school and is sharp as a tack and a heck of alot smarter than me with College! OK, so I sluffed off a bit!
If you have the money get a new Powermatic or a Grizzly. .. SawStop is great if safety is most in you mind..
I see your a TEXAS Woman! God... I loved Texas.. Beautiful women there!
OK, so I was stationed at Fort Hood and lonely at the time.. NA! .. I really loved Texas.. They even had REAL Road Houses then... 1960......
EDIT: By the way.. I never had to adjust my saw except for the fence.. Spot on when I got it.. lt Still is!
If I had to adjust it I'd have to find the manual which I probably threw away long ago!
Edited 5/6/2008 5:57 pm by WillGeorge
They still have road houses but now they call them ice houses, go figure. I live on the edge of the piney woods, my 16 acres is full of Oaks, Elms, Black Cherry, Dofwood, Redbuds and 80 ft. tall pines. I have a lot of home grown lumber. I re-saw a lot. My Ryobi has been "road hard" and now is a little out of line and the saw blade height adjustment takes 2 hands to turn it to move either up or down. I tore it down this afternoon, swore I wouldn't do that, and vaccumed all the dust out but can't figure out the problem. It was a good saw at a good price when I started woodworking but now I want to up grade.
I'm going saw shopping next week. Thanks to everyone for all the advice. I've got a lot of looking and trying to do.
Well I may as well add my 2 cents to this. I would say if money is not object go with the Sawstop (I mean other then possibly wiping out a blade how can the stop mech hurt you?) After that I would look at the Steel City. IF this saw was out 6 months sooner it is what I would own. (I own a Delta) It has some really nicely put together (hand massive) hardware.
As for the rest I think that Delta, Jet and a few of the others are pretty similar to each other so I would go with what you get the best deal on. (I know they all have their own defenders) In truth they are all good saws. Some of them are better then the others and some of them may be a better deal, but I do not think you would be in trouble with any of them. Lets be honest here. Even the worst of them is a pretty nice saw.
As for the next level (call it the less or store type brands) I have only had experience with Rigid and they seam to be ok. Not as nice as Jet, Delta, or that type, and now where near Steel City or Sawstop but if that is where the money takes you then they will do for you.
I have said before if you get the best you can afford then it really does not matter if another saw is "better" you are working with the best YOU can get.
Now if you are trying to justify spending more for a better saw... Well lets just say that if you buy (for instance) Rigid then decide in a couple years to go up to a Jet or Steel City then you (most likely) have spent more then if you bought the Sawstop to begin with. Large tools should outlive the owner (if a hobbies) so go for as much saw as you can afford and in the long run it will be the cheapest way to go. Heck a Delta in the 60s cost lest then the cheep saws out today and would still be going strong.
Doug
PS ok so that was closer to 25 cents worth. :)
After that I would look at the Steel City. IF this saw was out 6 months sooner it is what I would own. (I own a Delta) It has some really nicely put together (hand massive) hardware.
I bought one 3 years ago for $650, even though it had a Sears label. At 1.75 hp, it's been all I need.
Joe
I'm guessing you mean the Craftsman hybrid saw that was made by Orion? A nice saw, and I considered buying one (used) myself, but it isn't close to the same saw as the 3HP, titanium-topped Steel City cabinet saw I referenced above. Just want to minimize confusion.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I'm going saw shopping next week. HAVE FUN! AND enjoy yourself!
full of Oaks... I remember seeing a HUGE old Oak in Texas. Not very tall BUT WIDE! As in WIDE! Sure wish I could remember where I saw it. Old growth fer' sure... It looked like it grew wide instead of tall!
Thought you may like???
I hope so!
The beach Boys'''
http://video.aol.com/video-detail/the-beach-boys-fun--long-tall-texan/364392700
And then there is...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qoi4BQ23xCA&feature=related
And
Not the Sons of the Pioneers.. But about as good!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MT7_MUiiuRU
I like Blondie and ZZ-TOPS!
ZZ Top: "Legs"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yNvOPN1LoQ4
OK I love almost anything!
Especially this one
Johnny Cash - Ghost Riders In The Sky
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxn48wSiCzg
Edited 5/8/2008 9:06 am by WillGeorge
Hate to admit it but I remember the original Ghost Riders version, I was a little girl but I loved it.
Speaking of big Oaks, I had one come down a few weeks ago that is 25" in diameter. I haven't started cutting it up yet. Need to get all the limbs out of the way before I can get to the good wood. I have some beautiful Mimosa pieces also. A local utility company cleared along a right of way and left the Mimosa neatly stacked but hauled off the other stuff so I waited a week or so to see if anyone claimed the pieces then I hauled them off. What beautiful red grain.
I checked out the Ridgid ST3660 today. Not a bad saw. I really like the dolly system that is built into it and the fact that the trunnions can be adjusted from above if necessary. The size is right for my space but I still have to check out a couple of others, Powermatic, Steel City, etc. I'm the one who has to put it together so that's another consideration, the weight.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Sons_of_the_Pioneers
Mostly girls in my family and then there is that BOY! I love him also! Just different! very different!
25" in diameter.. That old oak I was talkin' about was about 8 foot wide or more!
Mimosa.. I have no idea what that is!
I'm the one who has to put it together so that's another consideration, the weight. My wife would tell me that and She moved all the furniture by herself and I grunted ALOT trying to do it! Women ALOT stronger than men! They just let us THINK they are the weaker Sex?
Not The Sons Of The Pioneers or 'Festus' singing but pretty good! OK good!
Cool Water - Marty Robbins
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ew3YCU9Jrg&feature=related
And
The Devils Horsemen-Ghost Riders
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dqTlri-GcU&feature=related
I could ride most horses then BUT NOT ALL!
Edited 5/10/2008 7:05 am by WillGeorge
hello,
in 1987 i purchased the grizzly 3hp tablesaw (model g1023 ,i think) for about 750 bucks. that sucker has since paid for itself inumerable times over.
good luck,
eef
I am also 5'4" and in my sixties. I have a Delta Unifence cabinet saw. This is what I've learned:
1) 5 hp is probably more power than I need.
2) Lots of extension table space is wonderful.
3) The cabinet saw was too high for me to safely use. At Home Depot, they had a 4' by 6' wooden pallet--free. It was clean and mildew free. I added some mdf slats, painted it with Kilz paint; added SKEW (non-slip stuff) to a next coat with polyurethane. Finally put a sheet of half inch plywood on top fastened with screws. It was cheap, protected from mildew and works GREAT. Now I stand tall enough to safely feed stock past the saw blade. Oh, the pallet with top is about 5" high.
4) It took me two weeks to assemble and adjust the saw. Well worth the time. I think the time spent adjusting the saw is more valuable than the money spent.
5) I waxed every possible rustable surface using Lundmark canuba wax.
6) Dust collection is crucial. I attached a Delta dust collector system with a remote control double-sided taped to the saw's on/off switch.
7) Duct tape didn't work to hold the hoses for dust collection. The metal rings which tighten with screws worked best.
8) Before finalizing the dust collection hoses, I ran bare, grounded wire inside and out to absorb static electricity and prevent the ever-frequent fires/explosions that occur in workshops. This job is thankless but I feel safer.
Well, I'll be interested to know what you decide about a table saw. Todd, Ron, and Tim were very helpful to me at Berland Tools.
Best, drf3
Kind of funny I am 6-5 or so and I put my Delta CS up on blocks I did a couple layers of 2X4 over laped at the corners and toped with a sheet of 3/4 ply. So I gained about 3 3/4" or so as my saw was to low. Perhaps we could take some off yours and add it to mine? :)
Doug
Sorry I was so slow in response to your lighthearted email.Maybe it's because I am so upset with Delta right now, but I do think table saw manufacturers could build-in adjustments for different woodworker's characteristics. Well, we solved our difficulties--maybe we could each send our saw manufacturer a chunk of wood representing what we added/subtracted from the height of our saws. Oh, wait. That's what they are doing already!Best, drf3
I have a dust collection system that I also ran copper wire inside and out on the lines. That was time comsuming but better safe than sorry. I have a remote controlled collection switch also. I built a small extension on my workshop for the dust collector.
I like your raised platform for your table saw. I don't have much floor space but could probably use half a pallet or so. I've checked out the Ridgid TS3660 saw and it has a very nice and easy to use roller system that would let me move the saw around for more work space in an area. Being a 60+ smaller women I don't need something that takes a gorilla and two NFL linemen to move. I'm going to check out a couple of hybrids and cabinet saws next week but I don't know if I want to put out that much cash. Gas prices are a factor because a grocery trip for me is 24 miles. The nearest big box store for some lumber is 48 miles and the nearest good lumber yard is 75 miles. I could use the difference in saw cost for my gas tank. Living in the country has its many up sides but in todays fuel costs it really has a down side.
I am able to reclaim a lot of downed trees for lumber. There are a couple of guys around here that have small saw mills and can do a fairly decent job of milling a log. I resaw the smaller logs, 20" or so, myself.
Sorry it has taken so long for me to respond. How is your table saw choice progressing? Are you sure you want a table saw and not a good bandsaw with adequate re-saw capacity for your lumber? With the right blades, guides, and fences, a bandsaw can substitute for a table saw. ####Google search on "table saw bandsaw" finds many good comparisons. If you have some idea of the kind of woodworking you want to do, maybe a bandsaw is more what you need. I know I cut more curves than I do straight edged boards. Best, drf3
I'm still looking at table saws. I have a bandsaw and it does get used a lot but I also need a tablesaw for ripping long boards, good miter work, dadoes, etc. Yes I do cut some with my router. I'm doing more furniture making now and my bandsaw can't handle all of it. Tablesaw wise I'm leaning toward the new Ridgid 3660. It has some features I really like and it is very movable which is a big plus for me. My shop is not very big and I'd be able to easily move the saw to one side when I need the room for assembly, etc. I've looked at and tested hybrids and cabinet models and I keep going back to the Ridgid but I haven't made up my mind yet, almost. I'm weighing all the options and reading all the manuels on the web. Can't do anything until I sell my Ryobi 3100 to make room.
Thanks for your response. This may seem a silly statement from a woodworker but... For the cost of a table saw, I think Michael Fortune's Five Jigs for the bandsaw, a FEIN Multi-Master tool with various grit sandpaper, a table mounted router, and a nearby friend with a table saw is a lot safer, cost effective. Fortune's jigs are described in Fine Woodworking magazine #180. I've found a precision router table the most useful and fun tool for my work. I have a big deal table saw, blades, etc. but I use it rarely. Sounds like you're putting in lots of thought about purchasing your next table saw. It's a hard decision these days.drf3
Unfortunatly my nearest neighbor with a tablesaw is none that I know of. In fact I have no "near" neighbors. I live on 16 wooded acres in the country and my nearest neighbor is as they say "down the road a piece." To give you an idea of my Texas area, the post office closes for lunch and don't try to get any county business done at lunch time they close also. The nearest grocery of any size is a 24 mile trip.
I will check out those jigs. Anything to make a job easier or more fun. I do have a small table mounted router, another fun to use tool. Come to think of it I haven't found a tool yet that wasn't fun to use. Just call me a crazy ol' lady, my daughters just roll their eyes.
I have a older Ridgid.. I LIKE MY SAW ALOT! HOWEVER.. It will not take my Freud Dial-a-Width Datto set... Not even at 3/4 inch... Just a thought if you use a Daddo blade...
I usually use my routers for that and no real problem for me BUT but I have a Daddo set I cannot use! Dang! gee the wrench with the Daddo set dosen't even fit my lock nut!
Edited 5/29/2008 7:48 pm by WillGeorge
Thanks for the info. I don't have that dado set but I had given it some thought so now I'll just stop thinking about it. I sold my Ryobi saw today so now I have room for a new one and as I had said before I'm leaning toward the Ridgid. I have a Ridgid drill press and it's a real work horse and very well made so I naturally looked their way when I started shopping for a new table saw. They have some nice features on their newest one and it is solidly made.
"...and prevent the ever-frequent fires/explosions that occur in workshops. " Anyone care to comment on the frequency of dust explosions due to static in the home workshop??
I'm not trying to pick a fight with you, drf3, but my understanding is that the occurence of static electricity causing dust explosions in home shops is vastly overstated in lots of different places, including online forums. There are other possibilities, namely a spark from a sucked-up piece of metal instigating a fire after a long time of smodering in the dust.
You might find this article interesting to read, though sometimes tedious. It's not the be-all and end-all either, but good info to consider.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Thank you for your response to my stating that dust hose collection systems are a significant source of workshop fires. After reading the article you suggested, I understood that dust can be a source of fuel for fire started within a dust collection system and that static charges created within the system may be one source of ignition--though a less frequent source. I especially appreciate your drawing attention to ignition from metal sparks slowly smoldering in the dust bag itself. My own anecdotal information includes some fires and explosions believed caused by charges within the dust hoses. I suppose the conclusion is that a woodworker needs to deal with the fire hazards of collecting dust and complete prevention means dealing with electrical charges and metal sparks. Thank you.
I'm glad you found Rod Cole's article informative and pertinent, dr. None of us wants a fire in our shop, for sure! I think you will find varying levels of concern about the static issue around here (Knots). I tend to think of it as more of an annoyance, when I get shocked! than a concern about fire -- but that's just me.....forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Thank you for your rapid and considerate reply. I'm sorry about my delay--I'm trying to install the Unisaw guard/splitter upgrade. Seems the instructions are wrong--It's not necessary to use a lock washer/nut on the right most support arm support. I have tried--and failed--so many different ways of securing the socket screw. Have you had trouble with wrong instructions, parts missing, s-l-o-w phone response, ...from Delta?I'm delighted there are other women on this forum. In the future, I will be more immediately responsive to your email and others. drf3
drf3, my turn to apologize -- I've been quite sick for over a week now,. I have insalled the facctory guard/splitter, but not perfectlu adjusted yet. Have estremely lmited experience with instructions s saw was assembledwhen I got it (used).
Many Unisaw owners here. Suggest new thread "Unisaw assembly help needed", pull in some new help.
Just go. Typos piling up. Sorry.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
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