Replies

1. 
   theRev | Nov 01, 2002 12:39am | #1

   Nope. I've seen some good woodworking gone to hell because the woodworker couldn't finish it up right (self included). Testing your skills and experimenting with finishing should not be done on your recently completed project. It is no shame nor an indictment on your woodworking skills to have a finishing pro wrap it up for you. I'm sure there are a number of people on this forum who use finishing professionals to complete their projects. If one were available to me in my area in Japan, I certainly would use him/her on occasion.

   Scott

1. 
   billballeza | Nov 01, 2002 05:05am | #5

   Thanks for the sage advice. Since it is based on firsthand experience I value it all the more. One of my greatest motivators in using a pro is ego. The finish catches the eye first. If the finish is sub par.. it's hard to call attention to fit. Thanks again.

   bill

2. 
   BG | Nov 01, 2002 02:11am | #2

   Bill,

   Screwing it up is part of the fun...and the reason you need a new cabinet saw.  I screw up everything when i get to the finish...just like our plaid friend ...Norm.

   I just painted the base of my new workbench.  I gotta tell ya it was simple and came out great.  I did seal it first with some shellac just in case.  then two coats of good quality paint with a good brush...water based.  I thought about some polyurethane over the paint but decided against it.

   How come your not staining your piece? 

1. 
   billballeza | Nov 01, 2002 05:00am | #4

   "How come your not staining your piece?"

   For the same reason I'm hesitant to paint it.. I don't know how.. and don't want to ruin an otherwise nice product.

   That, and my wife and her sister-in-law/decorator think the desk set and other pieces (bookcases, cabinets) I'm planning to build will give the room a "built-in" look if everything, including the walls, are painted the same color.

   bill

1. 
   Marcello | Nov 01, 2002 07:10am | #7

   Bill,

   Whatever you decide on the paint, do not use latex.  Insist on an oil paint.  Latex is too rubbery and things sitting too long on it will stick to it.  Use compatible oil primers.  If you are hesitant of painting, just have some one else do it and get on with your next project -- seems like you have several items left to do.  If you want to try it yourself, talk to your friendly neighborhood sales person at Sherwin Williams.  Experiment on some scrap, and always, always watch out for drips on the other side of the surface you are painting on.

   Marcello

1. 
   billballeza | Nov 01, 2002 11:20pm | #8

   Thanks for weighing in here. I am definitely going to use a pro. Put too much time and effort into these desks.. and as we all know.. a botched finish bothces the whole project.

   bill

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Nov 02, 2002 05:48pm | #9

   You may be able to get a local cabinet shop to do the "paint." You can get either a pigmented catalyzed lacquer or conversion varnish in the sheen of your choice (satin, semi-gloss, gloss, etc.) - both finishes are very durable and look great. Cabinet shops don't use actual paint - it's not durable enough and dries too slowly. The catalyzed finishes are a lot tougher. You can also pick any color you like - the choices are endless.

   Let the finisher know you want all the cracks, seams, endgrain, dents, and nicks filled smooth and level and you'd like a pint of the finish for future touch-ups.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

2. 
   billballeza | Nov 05, 2002 12:26am | #10

   Thanks, Paul.. but I went to plan "B". I did some reading and decided to take a big chance and finish the project with stain/poly. I bought a Red Mahogany stain (Minwax) and applied it over the weekend using foam brushes. I made the desks from birch ply so I used a Minwax pre treatment first. Glad I did because even at that I got an uneven stain. Now I'm planning to restain the areas that will hit the eye before using a Varathane semi gloss poly for the top coat. I'm planning on two coats.. sanding with #600 wet/dry sandpaper in between. Since this is my first time I will offer the following observations:

   1) In the future I will finish only hardwood. Ply is hard to sand properly because the veneer is too thin. I'm new to sanding, too and you can definitely see from the stain where I sanded too arduously trying to get all the fuzz off the ply.

   2) Everything about working and finishing wood is harder than it looks when Norm does it.

   3) Minwax pretreatment gives you a big #### headache.

   bill

3. 
   JEvans | Nov 01, 2002 03:08am | #3

   Considering the use it may get, I think I would consider painting it with a flat paint and after its dryed for a day, put a coat or two of poly on top.  The poly will bond better over the flat paint and bring up the shine. The poly will give a more durable work surface. Test it on scrap first to make sure thats what you want.

   I've done this a few times and it holds up well.

   Jeff

1. 
   billballeza | Nov 01, 2002 05:10am | #6

   Jeff.. my plan is to cover the desk tops with 3/8" bevelled glass. I edged the double 3/4" ply tops with 1" X 2" poplar that is attached 3/8" proud of the top to encase the glass. I had originally considered granite tops with a bullnose edge..UNTIL I got an estimate. LOL