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I am trying to find out about doing finger pulls for drawers and doors in a kitchen but I cannot find anything for making a following jig. I am using a shaper and my bits are a 3/8 flute and rabbet cutter stacked. Material is 13/16 and I will have 3/16 left on each side. Can you help me or direct me where this information could be obtained. Or even what you would do for a jig. Here is a link to what I want the pull to look like… http://www.smallboneofdevizes.com/USA/images/metropolitanshot4.jpg Thank you for your time, Brandon |
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Replies
That curve on the rail really throws a monkey wrench into it....
If the rail were straight, then what I would do is first use a circle-cutting template (or a router jig) to cut the outer curved cutout (the one you see on the face of the cabinet). Then I'd use a router bit like this one from Lee Valley:
View Image
to cut out the finger slot. You can find the bit here:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30103&cat=1,46168,46176&ap=1
But like I said, that curvature of the rail turns a straightforward cut into a nightmare.
-Steve
I have the cutters to make the profile but I am trying to find a way to put it into a production scenario. That is why I am trying to get information on a following jig.
I have heard of a jig that sits above and is perpendicular to the cutter so you can ride a template.
If you make a replacement router base with two rods or bars on it's face, set far enough apart that the rods plus base approximate the radius of the cabinet face with the cutter centered, the router will follow the cabinet face accurately. Then, a template underneath, clamped to the face, will dip the router into and out of the top rail.
O T O side view of base, "T" is the cutter
I would suggest jointing the top rail after the cut, to remove tearout from the end of the cut
What's the radius of the drawer front curve? The final thickness of it is 13/16"?
Is the drawer face flat?Assuming it is, a template with a "U" cut out where the lower curve matches the curve you want in the drawer pull. Depending on the number I needed to cut, I'd create a jig with toggle clamps to retain the drawer rail. Put the bit into the router with the proper size template follower disc and cut away slowly. Put a center mark on the jig and a center mark on the rail where the cut-out is to be centered.This seems straight forward to me. Am I missing something? If you'd like, I'll create a sketch and post it later.Greg
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