Replies

1. 
   Ray | May 17, 2008 05:20pm | #1

   What kind of bearings are they?  Bronze or ball bearings?  I'd use a close-fit dowel to drive them out to keep from damaging them, if they're bronze bearings, just soak them in oil for a couple days and put them back in.  If they're ball bearings, you may be able to read the part number somewhere on the bearing itself.  Any machinery supply house should be able to match it.

1. 
   musashi | May 17, 2008 11:22pm | #3

   When you say bronze, do you mean a bushing? 

   These are ball bearings.

    

   AlexOutside of a dog, a book is a man's best friend. Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read.
   -Groucho Marx

2. 
   paulm | May 17, 2008 11:10pm | #2

   I believe your machine has bearings and is similar to the one in this thread.

   http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?t=33694&highlight=sprunger++bearings

   You should go ahead and replace the bearings, no special tooling is required, and you'll be happy with the finshised product.  Accurate Bearing is a great source, you'll need to pull the bearings and get the numbers off the side for ordering.

   Good luck,

   Paul

1. 
   musashi | May 17, 2008 11:24pm | #4

   I thought I looked over OWWM pretty well for this machine.  I guess I missed that.  Thanks a lot!

    

   Alex

    

    Outside of a dog, a book is a man's best friend. Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read.
   -Groucho Marx

3. 
   musashi | May 20, 2008 05:48am | #5

   To all:

   After looking at the thread in OWWM, I just had a go at the bearings.  I went at the arbor with a rubber mallet, then with a block of wood and a hammer.  Nothing budged. 

   Any suggestions?

   Thanks,

   Alex

    

    

   Outside of a dog, a book is a man's best friend. Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read.
   -Groucho Marx
1. 
   WillGeorge | May 20, 2008 10:53am | #6

   What I would do is take it to a local machine shop or a local mechanic. Most will have a bearing press of some sorts. I'v even seem them in Muffler shops! Just tell the guy you want the wheel to stay straight if you go to the local muffler shop!.. In fact you could probably get a good auto parts supplier to do it for you at reasonable cost.

   You mentioned a rubber mallet. DEAD BLOW or Baby Sledge! AND make sure your 'wheel' does not have a ridge on one side that stops the bearing. Hard to knock off that ridge!.. Not sure the proper term but it is a stop for the bearing. Not sure if a bandsaw wheel would have one.

2. 
   PeteBradley | May 21, 2008 02:27am | #8

   Looks like these use an arrangement pressed in from both sides. One side will have a spring between the bearing and the shoulder that the bearing sits against. Most likely you're not getting enough force to unseat the bearing. Here are some additional details that should get you there.What I would do is find a way to securely support the housing vertically without supporting the bearing. For example, you could use a block of hardwood with a hole in it just bigger than the bearing and deep enough for the shaft. You need a way of supporting it that doesn't put a lot of stress on those cast ears.I would apply Liquid Wrench between the shaft and inner races of the bearings, and between the outer races and their bores. If the shafts are dirty, clean them until bright with liquid wrench and some steel wool or similar. If there are any burrs from a setscrew or previous abuse, file them flat. Remove the clip if its still there.Supporting the housing up on end, give it quite a few solid whacks with a dead blow mallet. This probably won't budge it, at which point you go with a metal hammer and a block of wood. Resist the urge to hit the shaft directly with a metal hammer.Eventually the shaft will be driven out of the top bearing and will come out with the bottom bearing still attached. Turn the housing over and knock the other bearing out with a block of wood and a hammer. Note the position of the washer-like spring and any metal shims (very thin washers) so you can put them back in the same places. You don't care about damaging the old bearings, so find a way to support the shaft on the bearing such that you can pound the shaft down through the bearing. Same deal, don't hit the shaft with anything metal.Clean and lightly oil everything you want to keep. Put them in ziplock bags fore safekeeping, along with your paper showing where the spring and shims went. Write down the manufacturer and number on the bearings so your bearing supplier can match them up.For installation you need a piece of pipe with an ID just larger than the shaft and an OD no larger than the inner race (so it doesn't touch the bearing seal). Slide the bearing over one end of the shaft, then the pipe, and supporting the other end of the shaft on a block of wood, drive the bearing straight until it seats. Make sure you get the spring and the shims (if any) in the right places, then push the shaft'bearing into the housing. It should slide in, but not easily. Be patient, don't put a lot of force on the bearing doing this. You may have to *lightly* tap the outer race in with a soft mallet.Finally flip the whole thing over, supporting the shaft on a block, and drive the remaining bearing the same way. Be extra careful that the outer race is sliding in without a lot of force pulling on it from the inner race. Replace the clip. There should be a very slight amount of axial play due to the spring.Pete

1. 
   musashi | May 21, 2008 03:18am | #9

   Thanks to all for the advice. 

   Last night, I cleaned and filed the shafts, sprayed a lot of WD-40, removed the spring clip, and let them sit.  Just now, I got them out - all it took was a little persuasion with a 4 lb. lump hammer. (Of course, I used blocks in all the right places.)

   I have located a bearing dealer not a mile from my house, so I will take them in to him tomorrow.  He said that whatever it is, he should be able to get it in a day or two.  (The brand appears to be "NICE" by the way - U.S.A made.)

   Thanks again for the help.

   Alex

    

    Outside of a dog, a book is a man's best friend. Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read.
   -Groucho Marx

4. 
   mrbird90 | May 20, 2008 11:49pm | #7

   If the unit is designed properly the bearing (if it is a ball bearing ) should be a press fit on the shaft and a line to line fit in the housing probably with a snap ring to position it. You will neeed a bearing puller or arbor press to get the beating off the shaft. When installing only press on the inner ring to install on the shaft, Heating the inner ring to no more then 180 degrees F might work in stead of an arbor press using a mallet and tapping uniformally on the inner ring. When you get it off if you can give me the number on the bearing I will be glad to assist in locating a source if you need one. If the unit is old and made in this country it is probably a New Departure, Fafnir,  SKF, or MRC bearing as these were the main sources up until the 70ies.