Good morning,
I’m in the market for a finish nailer. I’ve been reading tool reviews online and the Bostitch by Stanley made the top of the list. The Porter Cable wan’t too shabby either. The Dewalt was also listed in the top 5.
Should I be looking for a nailing gun that can shoot nails upto 2″ long? or is that overkill. I”ll be using it mostly for nailing on trim to bookcases. and for nailing up crown and installing baseboard. I”m tired of using a hammer and nailset. Would be a lot faster and easier and more accurate using a nailing gun.
I want a nailing gun that you can load easily and one that doens’t have much kickback. A swivel on the bottom where it connects upto the hose would be great. Better yet would be a nailing gun that doesn’t use a compressor since I don’t have that much room in my small workshop. Are there any good nailing guns on the market that don’t require the use of a air compressor?
Wanda
Replies
I have the Paslode IM250 and I love it. No hose, no waiting for the compressor and no dragging the compressor to the jobsite for just a few nails. Of course it costs more than a compressor driven gun and you have to buy the little gas cartridges in addition to the nails, but boy is it convenient.
For woodworking projects, shorter nails are usually fine, since the nails are usually used to hold while the glue cures.
When hanging crown molding and other trim, it's nexessary for the nails to get into the framing. And the framing will be behind the drywall, which will be behind the molding. Add up all of those thicknesses, and you'll be buying a gun that shoots 2" nails (or maybe even longer).
I have both a 15 ga and an 18 ga gun for trim. The 15 shoots nails up to 2-1/2". I use it for installing door jambs, and for larger crown moldings. And there are some jobs that still get hand-nailed with 16-penny finishers.
The 18 is used for most other trim jobs, and usually with 2" nails. Sometimes shorter. I also use it (sparingly) for woodworking projects.
As implied by YesMaam, you are in the market for TWO guns, based on your proposed uses. You'll need a 16 for crown, etc. (A 15 will work too, but IMHO, a 16 is a bit more useful for general use unless you plan to do a LOT of finish carpentry.) You'll want an 18 for smaller trim. I use 18 for anything up to 1-1/4", and the 16 for anything longer, up to 3". Heck, go crazy and get a 23 while you're at it -- I use mine way more than I ever thought I would. Look around and you may find a bargain on sets of nailers.
I have a lot of DeWalt tools, but I'm not impressed with their trim nailers -- they fail to fully sink the nails in hardwood far more often than my others. (They also don't come with the bump nail trigger -- not essential, but nice and I use that feature pretty often, especially on the narrow crown stapler.)
I have a theory on nailers -- the larger the cylinder for the drive piston, the better. Even if it weighs a bit more. You'll get more driving power from the bigger cylinder. If faced with an either/or choice, I'd pick the one with the bigger drive piston.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
PS: I've never been a fan of the Passlodes -- air's way cheaper and more dependable than gas/batteries in the long run, and the air hose is no big deal. In fact, it's often a big plus to have a supply of compressed air on the job for blowing, etc.
Edited 12/5/2008 1:50 pm ET by MikeHennessy
There was an article in one of my latest magazines that stated you could use a CO2 cylinder that is used to fire paint ball projectiles. The article said that it could fire quite a few pins before it needed to be refilled. It didn't say how much the tank cost but it was only 3 or 4 dollars to refill it with CO2.
We get to soon oldt und to late schmart
Lowe's has one for $50. I have read (but not verified) that some gun manufacturers void their warranty if Co2 is used. Here's the link anyway.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=166441-61735-J-6901-100&lpage=none
"you could use a CO2 cylinder that is used to fire paint ball projectiles"
True enough, but you need a regulator to keep the pressure at usable levels. They come in a kit at Lowes. But, from what I've heard from guys who have tried this is that you always end up with empty bottles just when you need 'em most. Also, costs about $6 - $10 to fill 'em. Cheaper and more convenient to buy a small compressor in the long run.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Yup, you're probably right, Might be cheaper in the long run to just buy a compressor. I suppose I can tuck it away in the corner. I'm sure I could find a place for it.
Wanda
Wanda,
As another poster pointed out, you really need two nailing guns; a finish nailer (either 15 or 16 gauge) and a brad nailer (18 gauge).
The brad nails are thinner than the finish nails and are perfect for nailing on trimwork. The finish nails are thicker and have more holding power.
You asked about guns that don't require a compressor. I fought against owning a compressor for a long time too, but then I found a Porter Cable nailing "kit" on sale for a couple hundred bucks and ordered it. And I wish I'd have done it years and years earlier.
The small "pancake" style compressor is pretty small and easy enough to lug around - especially if you mount it on wheels. And the kit came with both a 16 gauge finish nailer and 18 gauge brad nailer. Plus a hose and a couple of other items. For two hundred bucks it was a real bargain, and I've used it a lot both in my shop and on site doing small carpentry jobs. I even used it to frame my shop with, using a framing nailgun.
The brad nailer that came with my kit wasn't the top shelf one in Porter Cable's lineup. I think it shoots brads 5/8 long up to 1 1/4. There are some guns that shoot brads up to 1 1/2 inches. But I've never really missed that size of brad. If I need another longer than 1 1/4 I just reach for the finish nailer. And that shoots nails from 1 1 /4 to 2 1/2 inches long, if I recall correctly. A very versatile and handy combination of guns and compressor.
And the compressor itself is a nice thing to have around the house. I use it to inflate our car tires, and to blow chips and dust out of things.
You'll pay about as much for one compressorless gun as you will for this kind of compressed air kit - and you get a lot more for your money with the compressor and gun kit.
Zolton
If you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon
Hi Zolton,
Is the pancake type compressor oilless? How much noise does it make. I've heard those Porter Cable compressors are very LOUD. The makita on the other hand is very quiet.
You're right about the compressed air. That would be very handy to have around the shop. That way I could keep my table saw and band saw freee of dust and grime.
I bet the porter cable gun isn't side loading. Not the end of the world if it's not but that's a nice feature to have.
How is the line of sight on the P/C nailer? and how often does it jam up? Can it hit its mark accurately? Is it easy to load?
Wanda
Wanda,
The Porter Cable compressor is pretty loud. I reach for my earmuffs when it comes on. However, using either a finish nailer or a brad gun, it doesn't come on that often.
It is an oil-less compressor.
The finish gun is top loading; the brad nailer is side loading. But they very well might have changed models since I bought my kit. Mostly, when things are changed - evolve - they improve...
The line is sight on both guns is just fine. And I've never - not once - had a jam. If either gun does jam though, the front nosepiece is held in place by a lever. So you don't need to tools to spring it free and clear the jam.
ZoltonIf you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon
>>"How is the line of sight on the P/C nailer? and how often does it jam up? Can it hit its mark accurately? Is it easy to load? "I also have a Porter Cable finish gun -- the 15 ga. It is not a side load, but is quite easy to refill. I've had it for about 5 years, and have neverhad a jam. It is easy to tell where the nail will go in when using the gun. But (like all nail guns) the grain of the wood can deflect any driven nail -- so where it goes in might not determine where it finally goes.The one issue I have is that with a 15ga nailer, the ram is a bit larger than the nail head -- which means that the nail-head-hole will need a bit more filler. The ram on my gun is rectangular, and leaves a rectangular hole in the surface of the workpiece.Note that this is not a killer issue -- there would be a hole to fill anyway. But perhaps one not quite so large.As for my compressor, I have the Bostitch "pancake". It is of the larger pancake variety, and is heave as a result. And yes, it is LOUD. It's impossible to have a conversation if it is running in the same room. And difficult in the next room. But the noise issue is true of any oilless compressor. The the oil-type machines are WAY more expensive.
Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.
I bought a Hitachi NT 65MA2 finish nailer for installing window casing and baseboard for our house in 2005. The 15-guage nailholes are a little big but the nails hold well and the 15-guages feature the angle vs. the (straight) 16 guage nailers.
I recently bought a Senco nailer for installing exterior cedar shingles and it works well.
Wanda,
I assume from your post about your crown moulding fiasco you will be using this to install crown moulding (right side up this time ;-) ). When I install crown I use both 15 and 18 ga nailers and sometimes 23ga. You will want to be able to shoot 2 1/2" 15's and at least 1 3/4" 18's. One thing that is helpful is to get a 15ga Angle Nailer rather than straight. It is easier to get it to corners and tight places. I would also agree that I use my 23ga pinner WAY more often than I ever thought I would.
HI,
While we're on the subject of crown molding .. what is the correct nailing pattern to install crown? I might have asked that ? before I can't remember. If crown is installed tightly (you cut it 1/16" longer than you need and you spring it into position to insure a tight snug fit against the butted piece) it really only needs to be attached to the wall.
But I'm sure most people probably nail it into the stud and into the joist. What would you recommend?
Can you attach a 5/8" thick piece of pine trim (skirting) to the bottom of a bookcase using an 18g nailer? or am I better off using a 15/16 g nailer for that?Would a 18/23 g nailer be best for attaching cap molding? (ex. 3 piece base)
Since I don't own a nailing gun I went ahead and used a 2" finishing nail to nail the 5/8" piece/skirting to the bottom of the bookcase. I cut the miters at a 45 degree angle and glued them before nailing them.
Wanda
In a square or rectangular room, the ceiling joists will be parallel to half of the crown, and perpendicular to the other half. As a result, it it no possible to nail half of the crown into the joists.Which is why you need long nails. In days of old, when carpenters were bold, and nailguns weren't invented, we used 16 penny -- or even 20 penny (which are no longer available to the best I know) -- through the middle of the crown molding, aiming for the wall header. These, in addition to the nails in the wall studs, were good assurance.The option is to use long nails into the wall studs, and angled nails into the ceiling drywall. Two nails placed at the same point, but pointing in different angles, will hold the crown to the ceiling.
Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.
Wanda,
You'll only get joists on 2 sides of the room, fortunately the sides you dont get it on should be pretty flat on the ceiling. I nail every stud and joist (nails are cheap and callbacks expensive). If I have a problem spot and can't get it tight with a nail, my new favorite fix is Henkel PL Turbo it's a fast setting (< 3min) polyurethane glue that comes in a 20gram tube. Just squirt a little in the gap and hold it up for a minute or so and it ain't never coming loose. Generally, 15's for the runs on crown and 18's for and outside corners. If the corner is particularly problematic I will cut a block for the back of the corner and glue it together and then put it up. Outside corners usually have on shortish leg, so it is more manageable this way.
To attach skirting you describe before finishing I would glue and tack with 23 ga pins so I didn't need to fill the holes. If it is prefinished I would use 18 ga. 15's are overkill IMHO. Cap I would use either 18's or 23's depending on how straight the cap is and how thick.
I use the 23 to apply prefinished shoe molding around floors and cabinets in high traffic areas I apply a bead of TiteBond Trim glue to the back (NOT the bottom) to make sure it stays put.
If your going to get a 23ga pinner, be careful. It seems a right of passage on our crews that everyone shoots one into a finger at least once. Not as bad as a 15 but they sure do hurt (yes, this is the voice of experience talking)
Nailers: I have PC 15 gauge. It is angled and is great for crown. I also have 18 gauge Bostitch. It is great for shooting small trim, but I wouldn't use it for 3/4" thick base or door jambs. If you are hanging crown you can rip backer board screw in around the room and hang the crown with 18 gauge nails.
Compressors: The two small compressors I have are a Senco and a small private made oil lubed one. The oil lubed one is great to shoot PC nailer all day, but weighs more than I like to lug around. The Senco is quiet and light, but I sometimes have to wait to let it catch up when using PC 15 gauge. I also have one of the paint gun setups. It is great to use for nailing when you don't want to drag out the compressor. Refills cost $3 to 4. I wouldn't try use one all of the time.
I've used the PC pancake compressor on jobsite and it was louder and heavier than Senco, but would shoot the 15 gauge longer with out cycling on. PC used to have bundles with two guns and compressor.
You didn't say anything about nails. I like Senco nails for my PC 15, but will shoot just about anything in the 18. The 21 gauge only gets Grex nails.
Compressor can also be used for bike and auto tire, blowing dust off work, and blowing out AC drip lines that are clogged.
Good luck
Hi Marion,
Nope I didn't say anything about nails... I have never handled a nailing gun/pneumatic nailer in my life. So I have no idea what they can shoot. I take it that there are different qualities? Are the nails heat activated?
What else can you tell me about the nails..
Wanda
Omg I now need 3 nailers. LOL 23/ 15 or 16 and an 18... I think starting with a kit might be my best option since it comes with a compressor.
I'll have to go to my local tool store and get the guys there to demonstrate a few of their Makita, dewalt, milwaukee and PC nailers.
wanda
I don't know that you need a 23 gauge nailer. They are for smaller trim. I use mine for crown on built-in cabinets and boxes.
You do have to keep your hand away from the area where you are shooting. Knots and grain will make nails go all different ways.
I shot myself a couple years ago with the 15 gauge. I was pushing a piece of crown on a cabinet in place and the nail did a 90 and went into my finger. No damage, other than the hole.
I like senco nails because I think they are harder than PC nails. I have had two PC nails try to come out at same time. Jams are easy to clear in PC.
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