I am building a project with large mahogany crotch veneers and they have given me nothing but trouble since I first received them. I am not sure if its my experience or the veneer that is making this process so difficult.
I have done a lot of veneering in the past but never with 7 foot crotch. I have gone through the process of flattening the sheets with gylcerine, water, and alchol three times in two weeks.
I have put a watered down solution of hide glue on them and let them dry flat recently and still the veneers are buckling and cracking so bad I cant glue them up.
My shop is about 60 degrees at all times. no intense heat or humidity is at fault.
When I first received the veneers three weeks ago, I found mold all over them. I have never seen that before. Does anybody have any advice? Thanks CM
Replies
While I have in the past used glycerin to soften veneers, I was always concerned that it would interfere with the glue bond, especially if too much was applied. Having said that I don't think this has anything to do with your trouble.
You said that you applied watered down hide glue to the veneer and let it dry flat. Was that hide glue hot when you applied it, and did you place the veneer between boards to hold it flat?
When I work with crotches, I apply a thinned down hot hide glue to both sides and then wrap the veneer in plastic and place it between boards and use clamps to press it flat. You have to watch the veneer to make sure it has relaxed enough to flatten out before applying the clamps, but not wait so long that the glue stiffens them.
I let the veneer out of the plastic twice a day for a week. While the veneer is out of the plastic, I keep an eye on so it doesn't dry out too much and start to wrinkle again.
I have only used this method for veneer that was going to be hammer veneered, so I don't know how it would work with any other method. In the end this makes the crotches easier to use than plain veneer.
I think if you mist your veneer and let it relax, you should be able to flatten it.
I have had mold grow on the left over pieces of veneer that were treated with the hide glue, but I have never gotten veneer with mold on it. I would wipe the veneer with bleach to kill any mold. I don't know what if any effect mold would have on the bond, but I wouldn't want to risk it feeding off the glue.
Rob Millard
http://www.americanfederalperiod.com
Hi Rob,
I am not hammer veneering but I am using hide glue with cauls. I am not a traditionialiast but I like the propertyies of hide glue.
In all the steps I told you about earlier, I flattened the veneers with sheets of melamine and I let them out at least twice a day.
These veneers are cracking so much I might lose them for this project.
Instead of waiting 3 weeks to go through this hole process of flattening with these different solutions, should I have tried to glue them up right away? Thanks CM
I'm sort of at a loss to figure out what has happened. I have one thought and it may be a long shot, but I'm wondering if the alcohol is causing problems with the hide glue. I know that alcohol will cause hide glue to crystallize.
Hopefully you will be able to salvage the veneer, but if not I'd use just the hot hide glue to soften and stabilize the replacements.
Rob Millard
cm,
Are you keeping the veneers pressed flat til you are ready to use them? I generally sandwich the veneer sheets between pieces of plywood (the bread in the sandwich) and several layers of newspaper or kraft paper (the cheese) on either side of the veneers (the baloney). Weight the whole stack down after dampening the veneer, and keep it pressed flat. I exchange the damp paper for dry, and replace the weights, keeping all pressed down til I take it out to glue to the substrate.
Ray
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