I bought an 8/4 piece of cherry that is about 9″ by 8′ for making some stair rails. At the time, it was decently flat. However, after several months of sitting on the shelf to acclimate, I find that it has substantially twisted (an inch difference between corner A and opposite corner B on opposite end). Now I find myself quite unsure how to handle this as I’m only a weekend WW and I don’t see how I can get a straight rip with that much twist.
I have a couple jack planes and was thinking that maybe I could use them to joint the edge then proceed from there. However, I have never tackled such a large piece before.
BTW, I don’t own a jointer b/c I have been able to accomodate all other projects with various techniques.
If you have any suggestions, I would love to hear them. Thanks!
Replies
In the first place you don't have to rip the entire length, only on cut pieces slightly over what you need as a finished length. If you are out 1" over 8' then you will probably only be out 1/4" on 24" as an example.
Lengths shorter are easier to deal with so rough-cut the board to the length you need and a lot of your problem will go away. Also, you may be better off now, before you make the rails, than if the twist happened after the rails were installed.
John
Good points. Unfortunately, I need 7' rails and was hoping to avoid piecing them together.Thanks :)
"100 Years" -- scribbled on the wall by a woodworker to remind him to do his best and as a warranty on his work -- "If anything I make fails in the first hundred years, bring it back, and I'll take care of it. After that, there will be a small charge. (Original purchaser only)"
zombee,
It may be safer to rip on the bandsaw, if you have one, as ripping twisted stock on tablesaw may be inclined to kickback if the stock wants to rock as you advance it. Or you can use a skilsaw to rip along a chalked line.
The amount of twist will be reduced proportionally as is the stock's width, making it a little easier to straighten. Let the stock rest a day or two after you rip it; it may want to move some more.
Regards,
Ray Pine
Thanks for the tips. :)
"100 Years" -- scribbled on the wall by a woodworker to remind him to do his best and as a warranty on his work -- "If anything I make fails in the first hundred years, bring it back, and I'll take care of it. After that, there will be a small charge. (Original purchaser only)"
"Setting on the shelf" may have been the cause of the problem. Boards being left to acclimate should be stickered so that air moves around all sides. If so, a few more weeks properly stickered may reduce the twist.
What was the moisture content of the boards when you acquired them, and what is it now, and what will it likely be after they are installed. Answers to those questions would help figure out what is likely to happen. You probably can't go back and answer the first part, but you should be able to determine both the present moisture level and the equilibrium level where it will be installed.
I at least got that one covered because I sticker all my lumber when putting it on the shelf. I'll have to check on the current MC but it should not have changed much since I got it as I'm in AZ where it is either hot or really hot. ;)
"100 Years" -- scribbled on the wall by a woodworker to remind him to do his best and as a warranty on his work -- "If anything I make fails in the first hundred years, bring it back, and I'll take care of it. After that, there will be a small charge. (Original purchaser only)"
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