I am somewhat new to woodworking, but have enjoyed myself immensely thus far. Recently, I built a sewing table for my wife out of some pine, but I finished it with muriatic acid to give it a weathered look. After painting on the muriatic, it sat for several days. Then, I sprayed two coats of a basic solution (1 gallon of water/1/3 cup baking soda) to neutralize the acid. Last night, my wife sat some fabric on the table and when she picked it up this morning, the fabric was tinted pink where it had been sitting on the table.
Does anybody know of a good way to further neutralize the acid so it doesn’t affect anymore fabric?
Replies
Test it
Get some litmus strips and keep treating and testing it till you get to neutral 7ph.
: )
Ha, ha, ha, ha
Modern man has such silly problems to solve.
Ha, ha, ha, ha
Putting driveway cleaner / soldering flux on a woodworking project.
. . . : )
Ha, ha, ha, ha
and what do you know?
the one who always has the smart ass retorts. sometimes you should do some research before you open your mouth if you do not know the answer.
when used very strong produces black stains. on oak dark brown stains can be produced with it if wiped off before full action can take place. on pine of the soft vaiety the action of muriatic acid is that of producing a light greenish gray.. it may be diluted with water for lighter colours
may not be good for your health
ron
Ron
: )
Use vinegar and never use muriatic acid again, very unhealthy. Get it out of your house, too.
Hammer1, Tell Me More Please
>muriatic acid . . ., very unhealthy<
I only have a couple of ounces for flux when soldering steel.
I know it has zinc chloride in it ( and phosphoric acid ).
I know people who strip the mill scale off hot rolled steel with the stuff so they have a tub with a couple of gallons sitting around loosely "sealed". I have read that on Knots as well and would have considered doing it myself in the future.
Your thoughts ?
Muriatic acid is nothing more than diluted hydrochloric acid. Highly toxic and corrosive. It reacts with metals to form hydrogen gas, potentially explosive in air, not to mention the health hazards to skin and the respiratory system. The vapors can expand in a container and leak out, attacking any metal, sulfides, silicates as well as others. Look up the MSDS on it. It's not something that should be taken lightly.
Thanks for the info
>vapors can expand in a container and leak out, attacking any metal, <
I won't be having any of that in my current windowless shop. There is some significant temperature swing because I leave it cold when not there then heat it up some to use it. Expand expand. Vapors not good for the lathe, bandsaw, table saw etc.
Next shop maybe I will have an out building with some proper equip. Leave the sand blaster booth and what ever else there too.
I know . . . static electricity / vapors not good = big assed ventilator. Had one at the engine shop that looked and worked like an air plane propeller. Almost instant fresh air in the whole room !
muriatic acid
Muriatic acid is an industarial quality hydrocloric acid. Has many uses in industry and in construction. Among uses already mentioned, it also makes a good drain cleaner and cleaning the mortar spills from laying brick. Be careful, though, It is strong stuff.
Paul
muriatic acid
Muriatic acid is an industarial quality hydrocloric acid. Has many uses in industry and in construction. Among uses already mentioned, it also makes a good drain cleaner and cleaning the mortar spills from laying brick. Be careful, though, It is strong stuff.
Paul
ust to point something else out before your wife discovers it. Sewing tables NEED to be SMOOTH. Snag one fine knit, or catch a thread, or otherwise damage fabric, and you'll be wishing you had just dyed it grey and coated with shellac. Make sure you remove all the raised grain from your acid/base flushing processes before you turn it back over to her.
I suppose shellac will still adhere if the surface is a bit acidic, but if you end up with a basic solution, it could damage the shellac.
Good Point
You are right about the smoothness. I am intending to upholster the top, so snags should not be a problem. I was trying to get the rest of the wood weathered, but at this point I am willing to do anything to make it neutral and then paint it grey as mentioned above.
It sounds like my best bet is to try the litmus paper to check the pH, then wash with water to try to dilute whatever is there. Once it is basically neutral, then I can seal it. I appreciate everyone's input!
try vinegar(acetic acid)
to neutralize and then water
ron
That's the problem, he doesn't know if he has ended up with acidic, or as over neutralized and gotten to a basic solution. Vinegar is acidic and will only neutralize a base. If you sprinkle baking soda on the wet surface, does it fizz. If so it is still basic.
I suggest a lot of water to remove whatever contaminate remains, whether acid or base.
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