Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Apr 08, 2008 05:31pm | #1

   It is easy to get hurt doing this, I was an EMT up here in logging country for several years.

   Unless you are absolutely in love with the idea of cutting up salvaged logs for lumber I'd recommend against trying to do this. Without any equipment there is no good way to move logs any distance. You need a trailer or what is called a log arch, an assortment of chains, a winch, and a peavy as your basic equipment. The pro's make it look easy but they've got the equipment and some hard earned experience.

   Once you get the logs on your property you'll need to buy a log mill or hire someone with a portable sawmill, and then you'll need someplace to stack the wood to let it dry.

   If you just want to have some fun, cut the best logs into 24" to 32" lengths and then split them into quarters or eighths and saw them on a shop band saw using a blade for sawing green wood made by Suffolk Machinery. Be sure to seal the ends of the logs immediately with paint to prevent checking.

   John White

   
   

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   Edited 4/8/2008 11:16 am ET by JohnWW

1. 
   bft | Apr 09, 2008 05:31am | #2

   John,

   Thanks for the informed and helpful response. I'm looking into getting someone to come around with a portable sawmill. Although I'm not sure if it would be worth it for me, and if I really need that much wood.

   I'm a fan of hand tools, and I'm looking at some one and two man crosscut saws for timber. I presume I might be able to use this to take some of the better pieces down to size as you recommended. I already have a large amount of oversized chunks for firewood that I will need to take down to a smaller length for splitting, so this was a planned purchase.

   Is there any way to rip logs by hand -- if I try and do it on the spot, or once I get sections home? I presumed you meant to split it with a few wedges, which sounds like a plan, but could that be done on 6 foot long piece? Lying on the ground?

   I'm not an owner of a bandsaw--and I don't forsee myself owning one before 2015. Finances, space, school. I've looked for ways to rip the logs by hand, the only thing I've found are pictures of old pit saws, which sound like serious work. I'm not opposed to that type of serious work, it just seems like I don't have the means to execute such an operation.

   This may all be foolish.

   Thanks for all the help,

   Ben

2. 
   bft | Apr 09, 2008 05:34am | #3

   I forgot one more question. These logs are lying in the street at the moment, and it's a fairly flat distance to where I live. They are big, some I would guess about 36 inches in diameter. Could I move these (even if slowly) down the street (asphalt) with a "peavey"?

   Those look pretty handy, and there isn't any traffic here to speak of, so I would not be in anyone's way. Just wondering if that kind of leverage would get me somewhere.

   For the record the log was pretty hard to roll by myself, but I didn't know if this tool could make a difficult task not as difficult. With a friend?

   Thanks again,

   Ben

1. 
   JohnWW | Apr 09, 2008 05:08pm | #4

   Peaveys will make it easier to handle the log and also give you some control over it since you can use them to stop the log if it starts to get away from you, which is the greater danger. Peaveys work better on smaller logs however, you might do just as well with 6 to 7 foot long steel pipes or bars that you can just wedge under the log to get it moving. I'd have someone follow along carrying a few blocks to keep the log from rolling if needed.John White

1. 
   bft | Apr 09, 2008 08:12pm | #5

   John,

   Thanks again for all the advice for the help with something that probably does not classify as a woodworking project. I'm going try and roll some of the better pieces down the street with pipes.

   I'm planning to make the crosscuts by hand with at 32 or 36 inch timber saw.

   When you say to split the wood, can chunks this large be split using the conventional wedge and maul method?

   Is there anyway to rip these logs by hand? I've only seen historic pictures of pit saws / rip saws that sound like an effort that outweighs the benefits.

   Should I avoid cutting any green wood with bark with a nicer bowsaw with a Japanese blade?

   I appreciate everything--I'm enjoying it all.

   Ben

1. 
   JohnWW | Apr 09, 2008 09:14pm | #6

   Ease of splitting is very dependent on the species of wood and the straightness of the grain. Some woods, elm comes to mind, are nearly impossible to split while others, like oak, are very easy to split. I have only split short blocks for firewood, but I do know that it is possible to split longer logs lengthwise with several wedges. An old technique, that you certainly won't find described in Fine Woodworking, uses gunpowder and a fuse.You can saw by hand, with the right saw it goes very quickly, but I don't know if anyone still makes a large saw with a rip tooth pattern for green logs. You can try the crosscut saw you will be getting, just stand the log on end and saw down through the middle.It always pays to remove the bark along a cut line to prevent dulling of the blade, this was commonly done when trees were felled with hand saws.John White

   Edited 4/9/2008 2:16 pm ET by JohnWW

2. 
   bft | Apr 11, 2008 08:29am | #7

   Just thought I would give an update. I found a pair of "skidding tongs" which are manufactured by several companies--these came from Dixie Industrial of TN. Found them at a local forestry supplier. Works pretty well for my first trial run. Managed to move an oak log of about 28 inch diameter and 84 inch length smoothly down the street.

   The pair of tongs I used have a maximum opening of 25 inches, but I managed to make this work with this particular log. Just hammer the points in with a maul, hitch it to the vehicle (small SUV) with a chain. I imagine over any terrain other than the street you would want either a smaller log or a more powerful vehicle.

   Thanks for all the help.