I completed two more wooden ‘prototypes’: both are bedded at 45*, a 9.5″ smoother and 14″ jack. Then I decided (finally!) to try some metal work. I had enough brass 360 1/8″ thick stock for a 6″ inch Krenow style block plane. I do not have an iron for it yet – it is designed for 1/8″ thick one. I got 3/16″ stock for the sole from Lowes. The label said ‘hot rolled’.
I really wanted (a bit too hurriedly to evaluate each step as a learning process) to go through the process of making a metal plane. My peening technique was decidedly novice-quality. The hammer (pictured), weighing at 34 oz., was rather tiring, and not easy to aim accurately (more practicing is called for). The 360 brass does not peen easily. At this stage I am not willing to spend on the more expensive (almost twice as much) 260 brass (good peening properties according to various literature).
I went with the ‘standard’ dovetails geometry. Got undesirable (but warned for) pull in at the top. Some attributed to the geometry itself, some to my beginner’s luck with peening, and some probably due to the choice of brass.
I started believing that good work is possible even with 360 brass, but maybe with some modified geometry of the dovetails. Now I feel why Ron Brese shies away from the dovetils.
Anyway, I took a chance with some 1/4″ 360 brass and modified geometry and almost finished a metal ‘replica’ of the pictured jack plane. I will post some pictures in a few days. Decent but not ‘commission’ grade dovetails (some gaps – I will try to catch them with the camera). If I knew how to ‘see’ the gaps during the peening process, I would peen more and there would not be any. Well, the price of learning. 🙁
I sort of had it with the big hammer, so (when I was almost done peening the jack) I got a ball-point peening one. It sure makes it easier to aim the taps.
Best wishes,
Metod
Replies
Metod,
You may want to do the peining with a round nose punch and a medium weight hammer. It will give you more control and a better feel for when the metal is moving. When you feel it moving keep moving it until you feel the resistance increase and then you'll know you're close.
A Krenov style infill is a neat idea and I think you did a respectable job. I don't shy away from the dovetails as much as I've just chosen a different route to the end product by using what I consider a reliable process that helps create a plane body that is quite accurate dimensionally and has sides that are very square without having to compensate for draw.
Having done so well on the Krenov style version I think you should attempt your other design in a metal body. Best way to learn is to jump right in.
Ron Brese
Ron,
It looks that you too are not too enamored with my heavy hammer <g>. I should seek your wisdom before embarking on the project. Thanks for the suggestion about the round nose punch. I did not know such things existed - I will start looking for one right away. I knew (as soon as I started) that I need to develop some feel for peening - and your pointer about how the metal moves will get me there sooner. Much appreciated.
Best wishes,
Metod
Hi Metod
I really like that infill. I don't think I have seen a Kenov-design-type infill before. What a novel and clever idea! And I think that you have captured the charm extremely well. Your workmanship is excellent (although I know that you will say it is from 10 yards), and I have no doubt that it will be a fine user. What are the dimensions? Did you mention the bed angle?
I also like your other planes - have seen the design before - but there is just something about the infill (a simple line done well?) that overshadows those two.
Looking forward to seeing shavings in a project.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Derek,
I was trying to design my own version of a block plane - but was not happy with anything that came to my mind. I really wanted to get started on some metal working, so I used an existing Krenov design. I free-handed the resemblance. It is 6" long, bedded at 45*. It is fairly comfortable in my hand but a small indentation on the front infill (when I get around) should improve its ergonomics. I even do not have an iron for it - so no claims about the quality of its performance.
Later today or tomorrow I might be able to post some pictures of my metal jack.
To change the subject - on another tread you mentioned the difference in handling BU vs. BD planes. I believe that I found (just last night) a rational and quantifiable 'explanation'. It turns out that each has an inherent 'sweet spot'. With Krenov style planes and my type of (rear) knobs, the location of the spot is variable, with 'pistol' handles it is fixed. I will take this realization into account when working on my future planes. In a nutshell, I would like this sweet spot to be located right at the cutting edge. If a BU and BD planes have their spots at the cutting edge, there should be no difference between them. The further the spot is from the cutting edge, the greater the (user) force is needed for the same cutting results.
I should receive in a few days the stock for two more planes. Both 9.5" smoothers, one bedded at 50* and the other at 45*. It will give me a chance to put to work what I learned from my mistakes so far.
Best wishes,
Metod
Metod,
WOW!
Man the creative juices are flowing in Knots these days what with you, Samson & Lataxe showing us your wares.
Great stuff and thanks for showing us giving us all inspiration.
Best Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob,
Thanks for your kind words. Don't let my 'valuable' inspiration go to waste <g>.
Best wishes,
Metod
Metod,
Surely you jest about that hammer? 34OZS? 2LBS PLUS? Man it is big enough to serve as an anvil....
I don't really know what others do but I use either a 6oz or an 8 oz ball peen hammer (not on the ball) and a pin punch at times which I just ground the end of.Many light taps.....
The trouble with non peening or extruded brass is that the more you hit it the harder it becomes-work hardening. It will move only so far-usually not enough, and it can crumble.
What are the dimensions and weight of your Krenovular ? I ask because although it has appealing lines I would not be surprised if it is inconvenient in use.
The picture shows my two hammers, one used by dog in Zim when he was pup, the punch and three "anvils". I don't have a real anvil. One is a billet of aluminium diameter 8 inches which is especially useful because there will be no damage to the work piece.
Philip,
Regrettably, that hammer is no joke. At least give me some credit for trying, no matter how dumb...
Last night I was brooding about my mistakes. Ron's point is very valuable. I learned about the geometry of the (metal) dovetail from an article in Shop Notes (on the web) and Jim Yehle's posts, also on the web.
Frankly, the worst! I mentioned that I tried a modified geometry for my jack. Well, last night, in my preparation for the next two planes I revisited (this time with a 'fine tooth comb') the Handplanecentral site. My 'modified' geometry is right there, loud and clear. I am still steaming for not paying that site a greater attention. There is also a very pertinent instruction about peening, namely start at the edge of tails and pins (I started in the middle, working toward the edges :-( ). They even have a name for my mistakes: mushrooming. That's why I could not see if the gaps under the mushrooms are completely closed. I was assuming that they were. It was my luck (and not the non-existing knowledge) that enough of them were, so that the plane has enough structural integrity to keep it.A question (maybe I should ask on the Handplanecentral...): You mention, and so does Handplanecentral, about work-hardening of brass. The site mentions an occasional heating with a blowtorch. Can/could you spare any thoughts on this?Best wishes,
Metod
This is my metal 'replica' of wooden 14" jack posted earlier. I put (so far) two coats of BLO and will do more till I get some sheen. You should be able to spot the imperfections in the dovetails. The price of learning.
Thanks for looking.
Best wishes to all
Metod,
I observe a small orifice at lower midships-is this a make shift plimsoll marker? (;)
I also see that The Plane survived the huge hammer very well-or did you revert to smaller hammers?
Re your questions on brass hardness: it can be annealed (softened) if it has either been work hardened or is of a hard alloy, by heating and slow cooling same idea as steel. I have not done it and only say what I have read. I would not want to go annealing brass for plane making unless I had practical means to do it ie an oven .
Why don't you do single flare doves and pin them? That way you still get them "nipped" at the top because you will be peening the extra steel onto the brass (on the sides) and you can peen the hell out of the brass (onto the sole) secure in the knowledge that you are not doing it to fill gaps but for extra tightness.Philip Marcou
Philip,
Yes, most of the plane was done by the big hammer :-(. Since I have bought a 16 oz. ball-peening one, and a friend gave me two old ones, one a bit bigger and the other a bit smaller. Ron Brese suggested a round end pin - I need to mail order some. Based on his advice, I decided to experiment last night with a nail set (I smoothed its tip). Sure it works like a charm - great precision. More shame on me for not having thought of it waaay back.
Darn, I had to look up the definition of the plimsoll marker. All I wanted to do was to limit the depth of cut...
It is the opening for the grub screws (a la Marcou). I am waiting with the upper ones - the plane does not seem to need them. I can add them later. I would prefer the internal ones, but with my inexperience I did not want to take a chance with the 1/4" stock. I should experiment with some scrap first. I was getting to eager to get one plane done.
Retracting the iron by tapping works fine. A smack or two on the bench with the heel does it. That's why I reversed the slant on the heel in my last two wooden planes and this metal one. I even like better the resulting looks.
Come to think, the geometry of the dovetails that I used on the jack (and is pictured on the Handplanecentral) calls for very little peening of the brass components. I have an inkling that the secondary bevels can be tapered a bit (as mentioned on the Handplanecentral - I need to scrutinize the text some more) as to eliminate the inward pull/tilt caused by peening. I had some, but noticeably less than on the (first) block plane. I'll pay greater attention to the next planes.
I am thinking about posting some pictures on the Handplanecentral.
Best wishes,
Metod
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