Are moisture meters worth having around? They seem to be an expensive little item. Also, if worthwhile, pins or pinless? What would you experts recommend as a good moisture meter for a weekend woodworker? Thanks for the help.
Chuck
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Replies
This is the moisture meter I have. And not a bad bang for the buck. Includes species conversion chart, shrink charts and more. Uses 1 simple 9volt battery.
http://eagleamerica.com/product.asp?pn=400-2030
And don't use it as the catalog picture shows! NEVER test on the end grain. The photographer isn't a woodworker :-( I tried to get them to change the shot, but the deed was already done and off to publication.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Edited 10/26/2008 7:40 pm ET by BruceS
How should you use the probes?Doug
The Wood Loon
Acton, MA
Straight from the Timber Check instructions.
Since wood is not a homogeneous material, readings may vary slightly from place to place on a sample. For the most accurate results, readings should be taken from a cut section at least 8" from the end. The reading should be taken immediately after the cut is made. If this is not possible, a series of readings should be taken along the length of the board. The pin probes should be pushed in 3/16". Readings should never be taken from the end of a board that has been exposed to the air for any length of time.
Not wanting to waste 8" of lumber for each check, I use the along the length method.( I generally go for 1/4" or more) So I guess saying Never check end grain is technically wrong, But 8" of scrap is more wrong to me.
They also suggest if you are drying lumber, place two brad nails into the stock, placed the same distance apart as the pins on the meter and use them as the pins so you don't have to keep punching pin holes in the lumber. Just put the meter on the brads for a check.
Moisture meters are basically a conductivity meter set up with a scale that reads out in % moisture and not OHMS, that's the reason for the species correction scales
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Edited 10/29/2008 7:38 pm ET by BruceS
Chuck,
They are very useful. I purchased one from Harbor Freight and paid less than $ 30.00 for it. I have had it for 10 years. I use it regularly. If this one broke I would buy the same unit.
I buy air dried, green and kiln dried lumber and make a variety of projects.
The meter is quite good and has guided me when wood was ready to use be it for furniture or for building a work bench. I think probably the only thing that I can add that others might not is you can buy a good unit for thirty bucks!
Jim
I also have the $30 Harbor Freight digital and have noticed the same model popping up at others sites. It seems to work fine, if you don't forget to turn it off and drain the battery like I did. One thing I'm curious about, though, is how do you know the piece is dried completly through if you're just testing the surface?. I buy alot of thicker pieces for turning and the outside can test at 6-7 percent and the inside is still green.
Dennis
Dennis;
On thicker pieces - like for turning - you won't get an accurate reading until you made your first cross cut.Jim
Jim:
Bruce S in a previous post says not to test on end grain. Don't know why, but the cross cut would result in exposing end grain, would it not?
Dennis
Yes but it would expose the center of the wood which is where you want to test. Testing the uncut end grain of a log or board is another matter.
Oatman,
Drive a couple of finish nails into the wood bout 1/4-3/8" and put your probes to the finish nails for an internal reading.
Thanks, BG. Great tip.
Dennis
Woodless,
FWW mag. had an article back in the mid to late 80's on building one. I built it back then and it still works. I use it regularly but not all the time. I would NOT recommend it unless you have time on your hands or just love to tinker with odd stuff. All the parts were available at Radio Shack. The magazine had the wood type conversion chart and instructions included a string of resistors to calibrate the unit.
For $30 I would buy the HF but if you have a desire, I will go back and find the two issues that detail the construction (the first article had an error which was corrected 2 issues later IIRC).
Like I said, not for everybody but it was a fun project.
Regards,
Mack
"Close enough for government work=measured with a micrometer, marked with chalk and cut with an axe"
Are they worth it? Too me they are. A pin type rides in my pick-up as it see's duty at my hard-wood supplier. A digital spends it's time in the shop for the acclimation time. With humidity changes in Georgia weather moisture content can change daily, especially with rain.
The meter gives me a read on when to strike the stock with metal. But... it is allowed to acclimate a day or so after as again.. things can change over-night in some cases.
Sarge..
I inherited my father's FW issues from the 80's. In one of the issues between 50 and 59, (maybe 53??), there is a plan to build your own moisture meter from parts available from Radio Shack.
That might be kind of a cool kitchen table project in the summer here in TX when it is too *&#@$#$ hot to work wood in the summer.
If a mositure meter can keep you from losing a project to wood movement, it's worth the price. If you buy green wood or mill your own, they're necessary. I waited until I saw the Delmhorst J-lite go on sale, I think it was $99 a couple years ago, and snatched it up. It is a quality meter, and has the flexibility of taking extra-long pins or an optional deep-probe accessory should you need one.
Woodless,
I bought the $30 ish model from Rockler several months ago. You can see a big difference in quality from the more expensive models but not from a technology perspective...the others are much more sturdy.
Their most important application for me is when I glue up panels. I want to make sure any moisture and swelling that occurred during glue-up has been eliminated before I do final planing and finishing. this will hopefully eliminate the possibilty of creating a groove where the boards are joined.
I did seek out advice from the glue people and they suggested I wait two weeks ater glue-up to be sure before planing...the moisture meter cut that time down.
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