Replies

1. 
   Samson | Dec 11, 2008 06:07pm | #1

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32926&cat=1,42884

   or the Makita 10" scms (1013 IIRC)

   
   

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   Edited 12/11/2008 10:08 am ET by Samson

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Dec 12, 2008 12:34am | #2

   Have a look at the Makita LS1221 CMS. I picked up mine for $275 cdn and it is really a great tool with a superb stock blade. It's a 12" blade by the way, so it has a 8" crosscut capacity and can cut 4" tall

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
   (soon to be www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

3. 
   Ray | Dec 12, 2008 03:11am | #3

   For picture frames you don't need a "big" miter saw, I'd take a serious look at a Makita or Hitachi 8" sliding compound miter saw. The small blades don't deflect as much as the large ones, giving a more accurate repeat cut. Trim carpenters swear by them

4. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 12, 2008 03:27am | #4

   Sampson posted the ...

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32926&cat=1,42884

   I have one.. Not used by me that often BUT it WORKS.. And then some!

1. 
   Samson | Dec 12, 2008 03:31am | #5

   Hey, Will.  I started out in woodworking with one of these before I had many power tools.  I used just like I now use my power miter saw on sticks ranging from 4x4s to tiny molding and frames.  Great a clean and accurate cross cuts to length as well as miters!  Great tool, just requireds some sweat to power through.

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Dec 12, 2008 11:09pm | #6

   Samson,The only downside to that style of saw is that if you cut your piece a shade too long, you can't trim it with the saw due to blade deflection. A shooting board is the ticket here. With a power miter saw on the other hand, it's no problem to take of a 32nd of an inch more.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com(soon to be http://www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   Samson | Dec 12, 2008 11:12pm | #7

   Why would you cut your stock a shade too long?  ;-)

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Dec 13, 2008 03:11am | #8

   I don't subscribe to "Measure twice, cut once". Rather, I prefer to measure once, cut it too big, then trim it until it fits perfectly.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com(soon to be http://www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

5. 
   terrylee86 | Dec 13, 2008 05:45pm | #9

   If you do a lot of picture frames you may want to consider this instead of a power miter saw.  http://www.grizzly.com/products/Miter-Trimmer/G1690   These miter trimmer are in every picture frame shop and that is how they get such perfect miters.  They saw a little oversized and trim to perfect with this slicer.  They are pretty reasonable especially if you do a lot of picture frames.  A miter saw cannot make the exact cut that this thing can do, but it is only a trimmer and not a saw so you have to cut to length with some kind of saw.  Picture frame shops usually just use a hand miter box.

   
   

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   Edited 12/13/2008 9:49 am ET by terrylee86

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Dec 14, 2008 02:22am | #10

   drsess,

   I haven't seen a frame shop with that small a mitre trimmer.  If they have one, they are generally much bigger than that.  I used to cut and make 8,000 to 10,000 frames a year for my wife.  I used a Pistorius, commercial saw made for cutting mitres of picture frames, windows, whatever.

   However, I started making frames at about 12 years old after school in my dad's hardware store, which had a custom frame shop.  I used a Stanley 100 mitre saw.  It has a ruler (as does the Pistorius) made specifically for measuring molding.

   With that type of ruler, you cut it right the first time.  No need to trim to fit.

   Chances are the Veritas/Lee Valley comes with that sort of ruler.  I checked ebay just now and don't see any Stanley 100s on there.  There is a Stanley 400 mitre clamp, which is a companion to the 100.  A good Stanley 100, complete, on ebay used to go for about $200. 

   Alan - planesaw

   Edited 12/13/2008 6:23 pm ET by Planesaw

1. 
   troys | Dec 14, 2008 09:25am | #11

   You mentioned the stanley 100 miter guide. I picked one up out of the garbage at the local community collage it is in good condition but has no saw. Do you know what kind of saw you use with this tool. I have a very large Disston backsaw (26") and it is to tall to fit in the guides. Anyway and interesting tool.Thanks Troy

   Edited 12/14/2008 1:26 am ET by troys

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Dec 15, 2008 02:45am | #12

   My saw is 22 inches long (the cutting portion) plus the handle.  The length is not critical, as long as it is tall enough.   Mine is 5 inches tall, top to bottom.  I think a 4 inch saw will work also as there are adjustments that can be made to the guages that support the saw.

   You said yours is too tall to fit in the guides.  Does yours have the floating "guages" (also called saw guides) as the instruction book calls them (I think)?  There are a couple of uprights that are part of the base where the saw goes.  But there should be two "floating" guages that go down inside those uprights.  These floating guages have rollers that support the saw and make its cutting action smooth.  (Am I explaining this good enough to make sense?)

   See for details:  http://www.tooltrip.com/tooltrip9/stanley/stan-mbox/marsh-sw.pdf

   The #100 also came with a ruler and a rule guage.  Click on the link and go down until you see a graphic with the various parts of a complete #100.

   Alan - planesaw

1. 
   troys | Dec 15, 2008 05:17am | #13

   Mine is just as you describe with the adjustable guides. The saw I have is just to tall. I don't know if I will keep this tool because I use a chop saw for most of my miter cuts and space becomes a problem when I bring to many strays home. I also have the #400 miter clamp and Which I use all the time, I think it is much nicer than the knock offs you see now. Anyway thanks for the response and the manual.Troy

2. 
   alanplanesaw | Dec 15, 2008 05:55am | #14

   troys,

   How tall is your saw? 

   Did you get the ruler and the adjustable ruler stop or guage?

   And, Amen! regarding the #400 clamps.  I have a couple of old ones and a couple of "new" ones.  The "new" ones just aren't made near as nice as the old Stanleys.

   Alan - planesaw

   Edited 12/14/2008 9:56 pm ET by Planesaw

   Edited 12/14/2008 9:57 pm ET by Planesaw

3. 
   troys | Dec 16, 2008 12:16am | #15

   My Diston back saw is 5 and 7/8" high with a 27" long blade. Looks like it's about a 1/2 inch to tall. I should by a saw from Mike Wenzloff I am sure that would solve all my problems:). Anyway I will try and post a picture of this thing. I did not get the ruler and stop. But the rest of the tool looks complete.Troy

6. 
   RickL | Dec 16, 2008 05:26pm | #16

   If you have a table saw consider a miter sled. Have used all the methods in over 35 years of workinf in custom shops and factories.  Also spent many years fixing and tuning machines in commercial shops. The commercial framers use a Pistorius double cut miter saw and sled type fixtures for their frames.