I’ve been reading all sorts of pros and cons on the Forrest Woodworker II….
Does anyone have anything to say about the Forrest Chopmaster?
Any other brands?
I’m going to be cutting a lot of casing and base while remodeling my house, and want a GOOD CUTTING blade for my DeWalt 708 12″ sliding compound miter saw.
Replies
I switched to the Chopmaster in one of my saws after using a few different brands and loved it. It is now standard equipment in my 12” CMS and 12”CSMS.
kreuzie,
Forrest and Frued both make good blades. I used a CMT chopsaw blade at work last year and it worked really well also. I didn't buy or install it so I don't remember which CMT blade it was, but I was told it was fairly inexpensive, $60 or $70 I think.
Rob
I'll second the good CMT experience. I use them on my chop saws and my table saw.------------------------------------
It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
There are a bunch of good brands to choose from. For a slider it'll be important to get a blade with a low to negative hook angle (aka "rake").
For a 12" blade, I'd go with full kerf (1/8" or greater) because the span of a 12" blade is wider than a 10" of the same kerf width and will be more susceptible to flexing if given the right combination of events.
The Chopmaster and Duraline from Forrest are excellent. "CharlesM" from Freud can make a recommendation from their lineup. Other brands - CMT, Amana, Infinity, Ridge Carbide, Leitz, Delta's top line, DeWalt's former Series 60 (still available as "New Old Stock"), Tenryu, and Systimatic (to name a few), will all have blades that fit the bill. Some brands have multiple lines with varying quality levels...I typically try to avoid the choices from the big box stores.
Thanks for the input!
There are several exceptional blades on the market. I've found nothing that really beats the Forrestt.
I haven't tried the pricey Forrest blades, but I have used both Makita's and Irwin's. They seem to be priced in the middle of the road and deliver super clean cuts except where the blade exits. I suspect (maybe someone can confirm) that even a Forrest will do this and the only way around it is to use a zero-clearance fence and table insert.
Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Hi Chris - Any blade will benefit from a backer and/or a zero clearance insert, but the better blades tend to do better than the cheaper blades overall. In my experience, the only Irwin blades that compete reasonably well head to head with Forrest, Infinity, Freud's best, Ridge Carbide, etc., are the German made Irwin "Woodworking" series made by Leitz (no longer made AFAIK, but the HO Schumacher blades are pretty similar/identical). The Irwin "Sprint" and "Marathon" blades use lesser steel and carbide, a less precise manufacturer process, less refined sharpening, and typically reflect that in the long haul. Never tried a Makita blade, but I don't hear too many people putting them in the same league as the premium blades. If you're looking for lower cost blades, you might consider an entry level Freud, Amana A.G.E., or DW "PT" series.
Edited 2/12/2008 8:21 am ET by Knotscott
I gotta tell ya that Forrestt blades leave a crosscut that is I swear smooth as glass. If you can cut your ends to the perfect length, you don't even have to sand them.
I would say the same for both my Makita and Irwin blades.Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
I use an Amana nonferous metals blade for trim.
Good clean cuts with no tear out.
I have Forrest's on all my saws except my Hitachi C-10 slider. And I depend on them but... That Hitachi is now 8 years old with the Hitachi original blade and it's the only blade in my shop that cuts glass smooth. I have the Chopmaster 12 inch on my radial, and it's great but not as smooth as the 10" Hitachi. Then again, a miter saw normally doesn't get as much of a workout. Maybe on construction sites...
It could be the way the Japanese firms sharpen their blades. I know in fish hooks, they bill them as "electro sharpened". Same with the double edge shaving blades and surgical scalpels, all by different manufacturers. ( not chisels :-)
It's kind of their "thing"
John
Cut safe
New to this forum and just wondering around a bit. I do love my Forrest WW2 in the tablesaw and one day will probably try the forrest chopmaster for my Makita SCMS. But to be honest the stock Makita blade is so good I might just order another from them when it's time. I can cut glass smooth thin slivers you can see light through with that blade.
Paul
Edited 2/13/2008 12:05 am ET by PTG
Thanks for your two bits on the Makita, Paul. I don't think they believed me when I raved of it's performance!Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Ya ain't spending enuf moolah!
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I have both a Forrest Chopmaster and a DeWalt "Precision Trim" blade for my miter saw. Both give about the same finish. The DeWalt is a thin kerf blade, so it probably deflects more than the Forrest under heavy load, but I haven't done a head-to-head experiment.
-Steve
Steve,
If you do decide to do an A - B compare please let us know what you find. I'm in the market for a blade for me chopsaw and would welcome the results.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
K
I have 3 chop saws that I use for crown molding jobs, furniture making and doing 3/4 oak flooring when the phone rings. Last year I got about 25,000 feet of 2 1/4-3 1/4" flooring down with one helper. That's a bunch of chops.
All of the blades listed have been in my chopsaw and the old hitachi slider. Nothing works for me like the Forrest. The added benefit: send the blade back and I declare it comes back better than the day you bought it. Now try that with CMT or Freud?? Not bad mouthing the others entirely but ... if you want to buy one time and smile ear to ear-- go for the big F. You will not regret it. Like they say at Nike ... Just do it and get back to work.
I have not read of a single knotter giving feedback that isn't positive on the Forrest stuff. Call them on the phone-- no press 1 for Mars press 2 for Jupiter junk. You get answers and you are back to work putting groceries on the table. That matters to me. I don't like buying blades from a teenager at HD who would rather be working at the CD store than help you find the newest carbide blade. No more.
Just another input
dan
Dan--
Thanks for the insight on the Forrest, but you're too late---
My Forrest 12" Chopmaster should arrive tomorrow.
K
You are going to love that thing. Enjoy it.
d
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