Replies

1. 
   DougF | Nov 08, 2004 07:19pm | #1

   Daryl,

   See Jeff Hewitt's articel on missions style finishes at Homestead Finishinh's web site.  It is one on the better articles.   You might also try a search of this database since I know the subject has been covered in the past. 

   Doug

1. 
   scooter1 | Nov 08, 2004 09:26pm | #2

   Yeah, this has been beat to death by the magazines. It used to be fuming was the rage (what a PITA) and now it is using asphalt in your stain (another PITA).

   I have some observations and two recommendations:

   First, there was no single "mission stain" used by Stickley or anyone else. The pieces came in a variety of finishes. So if you are looking for the Holy Grail, you can give it up. Therefore, the ideal "mission stain" is what you think looks good, not me, not Jeff Jewit, not someone else.

   I like my mission stain to be a dark walnut, but walnut is too brown, and I like some red in it. This is what I do. I start with Minwax Cherry--one coat. Then switch to Minwax Dark Walnut--one coat. Then add either full strength Cherry or half and half with Dark Walnut. Tweek it as you go to achieve the shades YOU like. Another type I like is EF Brand Black Cherry and Walnut, mixed 50-50. This gives me a nice hue. EF is water based.

   Another thing I have done is to use Japan Colors. There are 8 basic tints, and using a color wheel (sold by Constantines) you pick the shade you want, and the wheel gives you the exact measurements of Japan Colors. They are water based. This is really handy if you want a precise color.

   Anyway, my two cents.......

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

2. 
   Paul_Snyder | Nov 09, 2004 02:14am | #3

   Daryl,

   That's a pretty open ended question. If you take a look at these two articles by Jeff Jewitt, what questions are you left with?

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00139.asp

   http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/mission_oak.htm

   Are you using quartersawn or plain sawn oak (or another wood)? What finishes are you experienced with (dyes, stains, glazes, pore filler, danish oil type finishes, shellac, varnish/poly, lacquer, etc.)? How do you apply your finishes (hand applied and/or sprayed)?

   Take a look at this article also - http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00060.asp

   Paul S
   Website

3. 
   Pondfish | Nov 09, 2004 03:56pm | #4

   I use a combination of Minwax Jacobean stain to darken the grain (wipe it on and wipe it off right away) followed by Tung or Teak oil.  Nice light brown with black grain is the result.  Examples are in my gallery http://home.comcast.net/~paulchapko/gallery.html

   good luck

   Paul

1. 
   yotonyb | Nov 09, 2004 10:47pm | #5

   I've been using Moser's aniline dyes.  I prefer the dyes over the stains They make a water soluble and oil soluble dye called Dark Fumed Oak which delivers a transparent deep brown with a reddish hue.  The water soluble will raise the grain so adjust your finishing steps to account for that.  I just started using the oil soluble, which doesn't raise the grain, and that might be a better option for tabletops that need to be dead flat, or assembled pieces.

   They have an alcohol soluble dye called simply Fumed Oak that doesn't contain any of the red hue.  However, a coat of amber shellac will shift the color to a yellow-gold, or a garnet shellac will deliver the red.

   I've topcoated with just about everything except lacquer.  BLO, Bartley's Gel Varnish, Minwax AOF, Minwax Tung Oil, shellac, and different combinations of these finishes are all appropriate.

   That makes it a simple two-step process...stain using the appropriate dye and topcoat.

   I've also fumed some small pieces using 10% household ammonia.  Fuming produces a color and an effect that you just can't duplicate any other way.  Be forewarned...just because they name the dye or the stain "Fumed Oak" doesn't mean it duplicates the color of a fumed piece.  However, I'm happy with the color the Moser dyes deliver and their Dark Fumed Oak dye is very close in color/hue/transparency to the original Stickley and Limbert pieces that I have.

   There are a number of ways to achieve a satisfying color for arts-and-crafts furniture.  Many of the finishing products are so inexpensive, it pays to experiment.  That's a better education than hoping to stumble on a good solution.  Good luck and good skill!

   tony b.

   Edited 11/9/2004 2:50 pm ET by YOTONYB

4. 
   eling98 | Nov 17, 2004 07:10am | #6

   I personally have been using the ammonia fuming for my projects and find it realatively easy. I do experiment a bit with the time of exposure for the depth of color I want. I can't recall off the top of my head the resources I used to learn but an internet search will pull up more than a few. There are several who pooh-pooh the techniques but if you use a commercial strength (1-2%..type you can pick up in the cleaning supplies section) instead of industrial grade ammonia, the safety issues are decreased markedly. I just place the pieces in the box I use a bit longer than what you would with higher concentrations. Also, I have only done it with white oak. Can't say for experience or study what the effect is on other woods.I have received many positive comments on the results so far. have fun with it!