What’s everyones opinion of Minwax’s water based stains and finishes?
I’ve used them on two projects over the past few weeks and I’m pretty impressed – so far, anyway.
The first project was several sleds that SWMBO wants to give as Xmas presents. Nothing fancy, just #2 common pine that I sprayed out. I didn’t even use a wood conditioner – just loaded up the HVLP, messed with the pattern a little and started shooting. I got nice, even, coverage with no blotching. Nada, None, Zip!! – lol. A couple of hours later, I sprayed the Polycrylic finish and called them good. They look great! Nice color that lets the grain show thru and not a blotch to be seen.
The second project is two oak end tables I’m making to replace the end tables we’ve had since Moby Dick was a minnow. I’ll finish them tomorrow while she’s gone (she doesn’t know about them), but I made up some samples today using the conditioner, stain, and finish – applied with a foam brush. Again, great color and the oak grain isn’t excessively dark.
Has anyone else used this stuff? What did you think of it?
Replies
I've been using Polycrylic almost exclusively for 10 years. I love the stuff because it is readily available, durable and doesn't change the color of the wood. I would love to experiment with some of the water based products I see in catalogs or read about but I don't want to fall in love with something I can't buy locally. For flat surfaces I apply Polycrylic with a paint pad. It flows out very well. These days I use a seal coat of thin shellac and two coats of Polycrylic on the vertical surfaces and three coats on the horizontal surfaces. I don't have any experience with the stains because I just like the natural wood color, whatever wood I am using.
I've been using the Polycrylic as a finish for quite a while too, but customers seem to be shifting toward darker colors these days and less interested in a clear finish the wood. I did two projects last year where the customers wanted a really deep red/burgandy color, and had a tough time getting what they wanted. Based on the two recent projects using the Minwax water based stains, I'm beginning to believe that the really deep, darker, colors will be much easier now.One "problem" I've found is that they need lots of stirring. The pigments settle pretty quickly.
Dave, most of my finishing has been pretty basic stuff, but I'm curious -- why haven't you tried dyes for your darker colors?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
'Cause I'm lazy? - lolI've always loved the design and building parts of woodworking (I've never worked from a plan set), but finishing has always been my weak suit. The "light" look let me fake it since it's hard to blow those, but now that darker colors are becoming more popular, it's time to step up my game. If it weren't for the abuse I would have to put up with, I would apprentice with my finish guy for a while and pick his (alleged) mind. He's a freaking magician - but don't tell him that I said that!! - lol
I've only ventured forth with aniline dye once, to even out walnut for a frame. It was a blast! It turned out so great.
Years ago, I went to refinish a mahogany coat tree, could not figure out how they got the deep red color of the original. Now I think I know, it must have been dye.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
If I ever decide to color wood, I would use dyes but the problem with them is they fade more than pigmented stains. Some woods, like hard maple, really don't stain well and the best choice for them is dye.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled