Replies

1. 
   DonC | Feb 27, 2003 07:50am | #1

   Pure crapola!

1. 
   mwinkle | Feb 27, 2003 04:51pm | #2

   Thenks for the thought and depth of your response- I can really benefit from that. 

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 27, 2003 08:00pm | #3

   First, Minwax Tung Oil Finish contains little or no real tung oil. It just a marketing name for an oil/varnish product that gives what Minwax thinks is a finish that looks like a finish made with real tung oil. The good news is that an oil/varnish is a better finish IMO. Other oil/varnish finishes are Watco, Minwax Antique Oil, and others. You can even make your own by mixing equal parts of varnish or poly varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits.

   Now, I don't know really what your question is. Are talking about mixing an oil/varnish together with a poly varnish? What do you mean by "handrubbed"? Are you talking about first an oil/varnish coat then a poly coat?

1. 
   mwinkle | Feb 28, 2003 12:03am | #4

   I was referring to the minwas wipe on poly. Considered using two to three coats over the tung oil.

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 28, 2003 02:32am | #5

   In other words, putting a wipe on over the Minwax Tung Oil Finish?

   No problem, the Tung Oil is already a varnish and will be fully compatable with an oil based top coat.

   However, you can save yourself some money by just wiping a coat of boiled linseed oil on the wood, letting it sit 15-20 minutes and then wiping it dry. The linseed oil in the tung oil finish is what adds the color to the wood. Let the BLO dry 2-3 days and then put on your wipe on finish. BTW, you should use more than two to three coats if you want real protection. Wipe on poly is diluted standard poly and wiping it on results in a very thin film thickness. 2-3 coats equals about the film thickness of a brushed on full strength coat.

1. 
   mwinkle | Feb 28, 2003 05:28am | #6

   I plan to use this finish on cherry- would I expect to avoid "blotching" with this finish?

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 28, 2003 07:16pm | #8

   Depends. If your particular wood is prone to blotch, it will blotch with the use of any oil that contains color. Makes no difference if it is an standalone oil or an oil/varnish like Minwax.

   Test it on some scrap material from your project.

2. 
   mwinkle | Mar 01, 2003 12:36am | #9

   Thanks - I guess at some point you just have to begin and work with what you have.  I will not be staining the cherry.  Is there finish which will not be succeptable to blotching?

3. 
   toddhunter | Mar 01, 2003 12:51am | #10

   I would put the oil/varnish mix on, then decide if you need the poly.  I used just the wipe on poly on a pine cabinet, and wish I had used something else.  The wipe on looks and feels a little plasticy, and given the piece, I didn't need that extra film protection.  You haven't said what you are finishing, but I would recommend experimenting with different finishes.

   Todd

2. 
   booch | Mar 03, 2003 05:04am | #11

   Howie rings true, just pay attention to letting the Oil or Watco or whatever type of penetrating oil dry/catalyze. Time, heat of the piece curing, and your wiping effort determine wether this works well.

   I use Watco then Flecto Varathane Professional for many pieces. It gives depth and it gives protection so I don't have to coaster and doiley every inch of my work. The key I and he mention is the oil/penetrating (depth giving) agent needs to cure before you coat it with the Poly... If it doesn't then the oil weeps thru your finish and really is a pain to clean up. I use mineral spirits but it slows down the whole finsshing process. as drying is slower after you get a coat of poly on top of the oil.

   So, if you got that, then consider taking the Poly coat and lightly wetsanding it (600 grit) with a few drops of water as the wetsanding agent after the first coat dries. Your goal is to remove fuzz and high areas in the coating.

   2nd coat could be the end or you could take a block (wood) and wet sand that too. Do it 3 times and the finish gets spooky! It is now dead flat, Transparent yet not clunky. (thick) Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?

2. 
   Gretchen | Feb 28, 2003 03:17pm | #7

   referring to the minwas wipe on poly. Considered using two to three coats over the tung oil.

   To emphasize something Howie has already said below you will need more than just 2-3 coats of wipe on over your "tung oil" to get an adequate film finish on your piece--maybe 8-10 wipe on.Gretchen

3. 
   BrianMcG | Mar 03, 2003 10:49am | #12

   This is weird.. I was going to post a q' re: Minwas tung.  I have used it on the past two projects, both boxes using walnut,and some exotics. In both cases it was supurb!!  I followed two applications of the tung oil with Fiddes supreme wax and the walnut, for example, took on that old warm hand rubbed look. The stuff is great (the tung oil and wax.) As long as you catch it before it gets too tacky, and you wipe off the excess oil (5-10 minutes exactly as the directions advise) your golden. If you let it go too long and it gets tackey, just apply another coat and stay awake. wait five minutes and wipe off. I love it.