Replies

1. 
   Scooter | Apr 28, 1999 08:46pm | #1

   *
   Gee, I didn't think they made the stuff anymore. At least I haven't seen it for several years. I used it alot, and still have a couple of the red metal cans in my stash.

   I am not a finishing expert, but assume the stuff was just oil, with a resin in it to make it harden faster. Perhaps someone else can answer that question.

   I would just use Deft or one of the other Tung Oils. Poly is not bad, so long as you dilute it. See the thread on Poly above.

1. 
   Bud_Clarity | Apr 29, 1999 07:40am | #2

   *I agree that I don't think they make it any more.But Minwax does make a Tung Oil Finish in a same size yellow can.I just a can last week at Home Depot.Any store that sells Minwax stains is sure to carry the tung oil.

1. 
   jwyatt | Apr 29, 1999 05:46pm | #3

   *All of the chain stores around here: HD, Lowes, and Hechinger's/Builder's Square as well as the local hardware stores still have the AOF in the red can. Bought a new can last week. In the old days they had it with a stain in it. That you can't get anymore.

1. 
   Jeff_Jewitt | Apr 30, 1999 04:33am | #4

   *Minwax antique oil is varnish thinned to wiping consisitency. You can make the same stuff by taking any varnish or poly that you like and thinning it 50/50 with mineral spirits. I use naphtha becasue it makes it dry faster. Use McCloskeys Hierloom and you'll have just about a dead ringer for the Antique oil. I prefer to make my own wiping varnish from something like the McCloskeys because they tell you whats in it in terms of resin and oil (tung oil,alkyd)Jeff JewittJeff Jewitt

1. 
   vi_anderson | May 03, 1999 04:32am | #5

   *I live in Mn. and have been unable to find McCloskey Heirloon varnish. Are there any catalogs that carry that brand? Thanks

2. 
   Rex_Kolste | May 16, 2000 04:37am | #6

   *Need recommendations, I am making a bed with the slats in the head and foot board out of birds-eye maple, want the finish to be as natural (or light) as possible but bring out the birds-eye markings as much as possible. Any suggestions?

3. 
   CStanford_ | May 16, 2000 04:44pm | #7

   *It's either linseed oil alone with resins added, or a linseed/tung oil mixture with resins added. Payless Cashways carries it. Behr Scandinavian oil from Home Depot is a linseed/tung oil mixture and would be a close, if not exact, substitute. I like the preparations with a little tung oil for the additional (slight) surface build and water repellency. Teak oil works just fine for any wood and it is a linseed/tung oil mixture.

4. 
   CStanford_ | May 16, 2000 05:05pm | #8

   *I just realized the original question was posted last year. This stuff needs to be archived at three months, max. in my opinion.

5. 
   ernest_dunning | May 26, 2000 05:11am | #9

   *I would like some recommendations or comparisons on finishing walnut using Behlen paste wood filler,Pore-O-Pac Paste Grain Filler or Behlen's water based grain filler. I will not use a stain over the wood, but will use polyurethane final coat(I) and want a very smooth final surface.

6. 
   ernest_dunning | May 26, 2000 06:54am | #10

   *I would like some recommendations or comparisons on finishing walnut using Behlen paste wood filler,Pore-O-Pac Paste Grain Filler or Behlen's water based grain filler. I will not use a stain over the wood, but will use polyurethane final coat(s) and want a very smooth final surace.

7. 
   Rodger_Ederer | Sep 25, 2000 08:48pm | #11

   *Clean Up brass pullsI have refinished a 1960's cherry chest of drawers and have a problem with the brass pulls. They are covered with crud. I buffed one by using my buffer/grinder, but the buffer is now black and does not want to work on the second pull. Anyway the buffer does not get down in the cracks. Tobacco may be the main source of the crud ( cigarette burns on chest). Is there some reasonably easy way to clean up? Also how to prevent future build up on brass?hanks Rodger