Gary,
I watched your video on milling lumber with extreme interest last evening. I then milled 4/4 hard maple to make a train table for one of my grandsons. I planed it down to the finish thickness I wanted. Then stickered it horizontally. This afternoon I checked and some of the pieces had a slight bow (1/32″ over 36″ length); no measurable warp. Is this to be expected? This wood has been in my shop for several weeks so I thought it should be acclimated.
I will take this opportunity to pose another, related question. The train table I am building will be 3’x5′. I plan to use 1/2″ MDF for the table surface and to run “stringers” from side to side to support the MDF. After the bowing noted above, wonder if I would be better to make these supports of 4/4 on edge rather than on flat as originally planned.
Thank you,
Steve..
Replies
Hey Steve,
My guess is that you can press this bow out with just finger pressure. It’s no big deal and easy to work around as you build. Remember that wood is not metal, and even metal moves! So don’t sweat it, you did everything right and got good if not perfect results.
As for strength, consider this. If you take a 1x1 it has a certain amount of bending strength. Make it now a 1x2 laid flat and it has twice the strength. But turn it on its edge and this 1x2 now has 4 times the strength. Put those stringers on edge and you’ll get your needed support. Have fun with the train and the table.
Gary
Thank you. Would setting the stringers in with sliding dovetails be an appropriate way to do this?
Steve..
Steve,
I wouldn't use a sliding dovetail in 1/2" mdf. If there will be no racking problems that you foresee, then a groove cut in and the maple glued in on edge will be just fine. Don't make the groove any deeper than 1/4". And in this situation, even biscuit joinery would work well. Best, Gary
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