I would like to narrow the width of some 3/4 x 7 inch tongue and groove cedar siding. I want to end up with 6 3/4″ total exposure (beggining of bevel on groove edge to beginning of tongue). I can buy widths that are 1/4 ” wider than I need, which are 7″ total exposure. I need to make ~ 220 lineal feet, with 8 of them 12′ long and the rest shorter.
I own a table saw and router and joiner. My current plan is to use only the table saw to narrow the boards on the groove side as follows;
1. Laying the boars flat on the saw table, cut 1/4 off the width on the groove edge. This will provide a little more support for milling them on edge.
After extending the saw fence vertically, pass the boards on edge through the saw,
2. Cut the groove deeper by 1/4″
3. Cut the bevel ~25 degrees on one side.
4. Cut the bevel ~25 degrees on the other side.
Has someone got a better idea on how to do this with the tools on hand I’ve indicated?
Grateful for any suggestions.
Carl
Replies
A safer way would be to re-mill the tounge. Use a dado stack on the table saw, or ####rabbeting/straight bit for the router.
This way you will have the board flat on the machine surface, rather than a skinny edge to tip over.
Carl,
Here's how I'd probably do the job:
1. Set up a temporary infeed and an outfeed table that can support the 12 foot lengths. The tables don't have to be the full 12 feet long, just 6 to 7 feet. They would only have to be a few inches wide.
2. Use a dado set, or lacking that, a stack of three or four cheap 7 1/4 inch saw blades to cut the groove in one pass. Shim the blades with paper shims to get the width of the groove close to the original. Having some help, so that one person can feed the stock while the second person holds the board against the fence would be a good plan.
3. I'd recut the bevel with a hand held router fitted with a fence, the end result will be better. On the saw, if the board lifts even slightly off the table the bevel width would be undersized. If the stock moves away from the fence the width of the bevel will be oversized. An oversized bevel would be obvious and there isn't a good fix if that happens.
Also, using a router will leave a better finish. You could set up the saw with a special fence that would solve these problems somewhat, but it isn't worth the trouble if you can do the bevel cut with a router.
MLCS makes a four flute bevel trimming bit for laminates with a 25 degree angle. It comes with a ball bearing guide,which you won't need. The part number is 6517 and it costs $18.00. Their web site is mlcswoodworking.com.
Hope this helps, John W.
Edited 9/7/2004 5:19 pm ET by JohnW
See if something like this would work for you http://www.sussexsawandtool.com/specialty/molderheadcutters.html
If you send them a scaled profile of what you want the edge to look like, they'll make a set of cutters for you.
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Michael in San Jose
"In all affairs it's a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted." Bertrand Russell
IMHO don't mess with the tongue side .Use a router and fence or preferably a router in a table .Saw the board to width, plane or joint the edge,rework the groove and put on the bevels with a router. Planing the board to a taper and reworking the groove etc. allows one to correct for slight changes in azimuth .This is a trick I have used with a floor that had to meet an exiting inlay
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