Replies

1. 
   watkinsjd | Jul 06, 2003 07:22pm | #1

   Bob,

   Most stationary mills don't take trees like yours because of the possibility of blade damage from hidden metal objects in a residential tree. It can be very costly for their type of equipment.

   Around here there a few people with portable mills that will do it for a reasonable fee, but if they ruin a blade on a hidden nail you have to pay for the damage.  Around $25 for a new blade on the average Wood Mizer.

   Maybe you could contact Wood Mizer for the dealer nearest you and the dealer may know of someone in your area that would be interested.  Look in almost any wood working magazine and there a ads galore for portable saw makers. The operator of a tree service should know who does this also.

   Good luck.

   John 

1. 
   Idiopathy | Jul 06, 2003 08:01pm | #2

   John,

   I will look into the the options you mentioned. Thanks a lot for your advice.

   Bob

2. 
   VaTom | Jul 06, 2003 10:03pm | #3

   Bob,

   I've used a half dozen local sawyers with a portable band mill.  Central Ohio must have hundreds.  I figure my cost at a quarter a sq ft.  Not bd ft.  Everybody here works by the hour.  Some are thrilled to have logs delivered.  You pay for blade damage from hidden steel.  Yard trees are routinely rejected by circular mills as too dangerous.  A nail there is apt to kill somebody. 

   Depending on the size of the log, do you have a shop bandsaw large enough to slab it?  I've flattened walnut on my jointer and then free-handed the bole through the bandsaw.  Gotta be small enough to be manageable obviously.

   If the cherry works successfully for you and you're still interested, you'll want to build a 2 wheeled hauler.  Mine will accomodate a 30" x 26' log.  The biggest problem with a decent log is moving it.  Around here, none of the commercial concerns will bother to pick up a log or few, even free for the hauling.  Works for me.

   Good luck.

   PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!

3. 
   Telemike | Jul 07, 2003 06:41am | #4

   You can rough slab it with a chainsaw, then slice it on any good bandsaw.  First, cut right down the middle trying to saw through the pith.  Don't just  saw down from the top - that's a rip cut and is not easy nor efficient.  Instead, make a line on each end with a marker that establishes the plane for splitting the log.  Then, snap lines on the bark along the log to cut on.  Cut along the log, with the saw at an angle, engine forwards, going a little deeper each time.  I got this tip from a bowl turning book for making green wood blanks - great book, I wish I could remember the author's name.

   You don't have to cut all the way through.  When you've grooved it deeply on both sides, use splitting wedges and a maul to cut through.

   Then, cut the "triangles" off the sides to reduce the width to something your bandsaw will cut.  Joint it to establish a flat face, and slice.  As said above, you can cut freehand, especially if you snap a chalk line.

   Use a sharp, chain, new if possible.  Use a good bandsaw blade and clean it if it gums up.  Cut to a length you can manage - this stuff is heavy!

   There's articles on the forum about resawing, coating the ends, and air drying.  These folks know a lot!