Replies

1. 
   JerryW | Aug 24, 2010 08:26am | #1

   To save time and trouble, I prefer to cut rough stock to a length close to intended use, then face joint one side and then thickness plane, placing the jointed side on the planer base.   If I want to plane ahead so that I know what grain patterns I have in stock, I cut out the bad areas (loose knots, tears, kinks) and then face joint and plane.  I try to get 7/8" thick or more out of 4/4 rough stock.

   Jerry

2. 
   hammer1 | Aug 24, 2010 08:56am | #2

   Yes, it makes sense to cut down longer pieces for milling. You don't want very short pieces, just something that is more manageable. It always helps to be selective when buying your lumber and to have a fairly clear picture in your mind of what each piece will be used for in the project. If possible, you can leave the twisted, bowed pieces for the next guy. Some pieces that are warped will want to return to being warped, its just the nature of the grain. Milling may only cure that temporarily.

   One face of the stock needs to sit flat to register to the planer table. You don't have to completely surface it and in many cases it doesn't have to be surfaced at all before planing, if it sits flat. Everyone talks about having a wide enough jointer to flatten a face but that may not be neccessary with every board. It may only need a shot or two with a handplane to remove some high spots. If it sits flat on your bench, you can go directly to the planer.

   Snipe is something that can be difficult to completely eliminate. Plan ahead in case this occurs. Many of us just cut it off. If you need a bunch of 24" long pieces for the project, it may be better to mill 76" long pieces which will allow you to remove the snipe and get three 24" pieces. I wouldn't run a bunch of 24" pieces unless the board they come from is so warped that cutting it up is the only solution. 24" is about the minimum size I would mill but I would prefer lengths in the 4'-5' range, certainly not 12". There are projects that will require 16', you do what you have to. You always have to allow enough extra for squaring up ends and the waste from the kerf, you can't get 3 32" pieces out of a 96" piece.

   Buying rough lumber really doesn't save you any money, not if owning the equipment and you time is of any value. What it does do is give you control over the milling process. Milling your own allows you to make sure the lumber is straight, flat, equal thickness and milled with the grain to eliminate tear out. This is seldom the case with D4S lumber. During milling, its important to take equal amounts off each face, taking more off one face will often result in warping.

   Some folks will partially mill their lumber and set it aside to see if it does move. Of course, continuing the milling later may cause warping. I never have that luxury of time and complete the milling at the first go round, most production shops do the same. The humidity conditions in the shop may be a problem when leaving partially milled lumber sit around, the lumber will acclimate to the conditions. Make sure you stack and sticker the milled pieces so air can circulate evenly around all surfaces. If only one face is exposed to the air, warping may occur.

1. 
   rsetina | Aug 24, 2010 10:53am | #3

   Milling Rough Lumber

   Thanks for the quick replies guys. I've had the lumber in the garage for many weeks now and started to mill one piece and then I remember seeing a video on Fine Woodworking where the piece being milled was a rough cut to length part of the project. I'll post later how everything goes after I get more into the project.