Just curious on how everyone gets to final dimension when milling. I’m resting my boards which have been jointed and planed to 2-7/8″ x 3″. I’ve already seen one of them develop a slight warp. My final dimensional goal is for 2-3/4 x 2-3/4. I’m curious as to how folks get to final dimension. I’m planning to joint the warped face again, and then rip the opposite face. Or is the way to do it to send it through planer?
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
I start by bringing the unmilled lumber into the shop and I let it set at least a week if I can. Secondly I sticker all my lumber not stack it. I mill depending on the type of lumber. If it's QS, I will go ahead and get it close to finished. If it's flat sawn, I will get close but leave some and sticker for a week if I can before taking that final step to see if something is going to happen. I joint flat one face, I joint a second face 90 to the first face. I plane (taking equal amounts off both sides) and then rip the final face. I've had some movement, but if it does cup or twist a bit that second pass will get it done and it should be stable after that. At least that's been my experiences.
I Ditto Bones
I've found the
I Ditto Bones
I've found the most important part is to take equal amounts off each side on the planer.
Taigert
Bones,
Thanks for the input. So when you rip the final face, do you rip it to "final" or 1/16 or 1/32 over and joint to the final?
Jointerman,
I always leave enough so I can remove any tool marks with a hand plane or run it across the jointer. It all depends on how I'm feeling at the moment, and how much time/money was allowed in the job.
Taigert
I guess that depends on your saw and blade. I have a forrest WWII on the cabinet saw, so I don't have an issue with a glueline rip so I just cut it to the final width. If you get marks you could go over a skosh and use a hand plane or scrape it I guess. You could use a jointer, but I afraid I'd get those two planes out of parallel. That fear may not be founded but thats the way I was taught and I want square flat and prarallel surfacess. I think back to my early days and had a ton of frustration but it was due to stock that was not milled properly.
I've got the WWII as well.
I've got the WWII as well. But I'm getting a lot of burning with this stock. It's 3 inches thick, the blade barely sticks above the stock.
The fence is slid back to mid blade and I've gotten my fence adjusted so I it's slightly off parallel (away from the blade).
If you have burning something else is going on.
Jointerman
If you are getting burning with a Forrest blade, something is definately wrong. Either your fence is out, your trunnion is not square, or your blade is either dirty (sap burn marks on the teeth) or is not sharp.
Before I sold it, my PM 66 was very well tuned. I had a 40 tooth WWII in it, and I frequently ripped 12/4 (or slightly thicker) stock. I never got burn marks, except occasionally in cherry, which burns very easily.
You should check your setup, or perhaps the stock your cutting does not have a straight, true edge to run against the fence, and is binding on the blade, causing some burning.
Burning is bad, and is the first step towards a chain of events at the table saw that very very very quickly lead to a kickback........and that can really hurt you.
Check out your setup. Did I say that again? Check out your setup.
Jeff
Jointerman,
What kind of stock are you working with and what kind of saw are you using?
Frank
Hey Jointerman, letting your wood aclimatize to your shop temp and humidity is important but equally important is knowing the wood you are working with ie, as in the grain and direction, type of wood and any pre-existing flaws already in the wood. Typically as I mill (jointing,cutting,planing)my wood to it's final dimension I am constantly looking at what the wood is doing to make sure I can correct and eliminate any flaws. Every step of the milling process requires you to check to see what your wood is doing.
Carpenter5
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled