Anyone know of a really mean, takes-no-prisoners finish stripper? I’ve been through three from HD and Lowes this past week, and I can best characterize their performance as anemic- Any thoughts would be much appreciated- Dave
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Replies
What have you tried and what are you stripping.
Methelene Chloride is pretty tough stuff (Zip Strip) but you need to leave it on a while and possibly apply multiple coats.
I've stripped paint, urethane and who knows what else from wood and metal with the stuff (I've used it so much I can't use it anymore without a respirator)
Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Mark- Dunno what the finish is, although I've not had much problem stripping it in the field- It's in the "nooks & crannies" I'd like to see the stuff fall off- On the other hand.... This methelene chloride, it's bad for human beings, is it? I'll find some Zip Strip and read the destructions- In any event, much obliged for your response- Dave
I think methelene chloride is now banned. You'd have to find some of it a garage sale, or take it from your local hazardous waste dropoff station. The stuff works great, if you don't mind knocking a few years off the end of your life.
I wire brush or planer shavings can be used to get into the nooks and crannies.
-Matt
Just saw methelene chloride stripper for sale at Rockler (California) the other day.-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
Not true as far as I know. Methylene chloride strippers are on sale all over North Carolina.
Look for the stripper that has the longest list of dangers and if there are two, pick the can that is the heaviest. MC is heavy and the stripper that contains the most will be the heaviest.
Stypease and Zip Strip both make good MC containing strippers but be sure to look at the label to be sure you are getting the one with the MC.Howie.........
Matt- Thanks- I looked into methelene chloride and think I'll pass- Back tot he wire brush, etc- Dave
Line up the strippers and choose the one that is heaviest. That is the one that will contain the most methylene chloride. As another poster pointed out, you must be patient and let the stripper do its work. Flow it on--I usually pour it froma container and spread it out--don't brush it. If it looks a little "dry" in a spot, put some more on. Then cover it with Saran to keep it "wet" and let it work. Scrape off with a putty knife and reapply.
Thanks Gretchen- I think, in this case, more (stripper) is better, and I hadn't thought to cover it with Saran- Much obliged- Dave
Dave, when you get to the part of the job of removing the stripper with a wash, use mineral spirits, not water. There is much less grain raising with MS. You must be very thorough about removing this also--it contains wax and if not completely removed, it will compromise your finish.Brass brushes may be used to get paint out of the grain. Use coarse steel wool to scrub it off the surface also--open the pad out to use the most surface of it. Or use a coarse Scotchbrite. Between using the steel wool and mineral spirits there is usually very little sanding needed, thus preserving the wood's patina.Gretchen
In my former life as "The Chair Doctor", people used to bring me large furniture like china cabinets that had been 'dip-stripped' because every joint had opened up. How come? Some strippers remove, along with the finish, some of the chemistry that belongs IN the wood. It thus shrinks.
So you may want to be sure that what you have dipped will tolerate the shrinkage or is small enough that shrinkage will be minimized. Surface-only applications of chemical strippers are better, and the best way to remove finishes without wood damage is mechanical - sanding and scraping. Tough work, but may not be worse than refitting joints and making new parts.
Best regards,
DonI'm not the man I used to be, but then I never was!
Dipping is an abomination to me--and yes, it destroys joints. I don't think I suggested dipping in any way. As I said, if you treat the wood well, you preserve what the years have given to it.Gretchen
I frankly don't mind dipping and lose joints. If I'm sending the piece to a dipper, it really needs it. It has very difficult surfaces to clean (it may already have loose joints) I may just be too much work to strip manually...BTW there are other strippers that don't actually dip, they spray on the solvent and pressure spray it off - does less damage to the joints.The other benefit - with your piece in pieces - you can do a great job refinishing...Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
The wash over spray is at least preferable to dipping. I find that pieces that have ben treated either way lose a lot of character. And of course, there may be difficult things to work with--turnings, etc. I tend to leave those where they are and not deal with that problem.Gretchen
Whew! Glad to see this is about refinishing. For a moment, I thought we were polling for something else.
I saw zip strip in the hardware store yesterday so I be surprised if it is outlawed (yet).I know that Trichlorethelyne (degreaser) is tough to get now (not that you want it - it's nasty stuff - I had a summer job years ago and we had a tank of the stuff - heated - we would dip parts into the vapor and the oil/grease would run off. But if you got it on your skin... it would burn like hell - and not from the heat, from the degreasing action. And stink? whew worse than lacquer thinner...Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Dave ,
The strongest meanest 4 wheel drive stripper that money will buy is made by Benco Co. It is marketed under several names Bix is one name it has been sold by also . Try http://www.bencosales.com you may find a distributor near you or they may ship directly to you . They do make several grades for different applications .
be careful and good luck dusty
Edited 6/15/2005 9:29 pm ET by dusty
Dusty- Thanks for the link- I went there (among other places) and am glad to know those things are available- But I don't think I want to use any of them- Think I'll just use more of the not-so-nasty stuff- Much obliged- Dave
Dave, simple precautions and you won't have any problems.Get good gloves, wear an apron, work outside (in the shade). If you work inside, use a respirator. A face shield is not a bad idea. The stuff does not burn - it actually feels cold to the touch (evaporation). I just don't recommend any extra exposure. ("Funny" thing is MC is used to decaffinate coffee!)The MC eventually evaporates (that's why the saran wrap is such an awesome idea for really tough finishes)and the remaining stuff scrapes off with a light touch.In terms of the piece you are stripping, scrapers and wire brushes do damage work. The MC may raise the grain a bit but in general, they will save you lots of sanding and repair time.BTW, there are companies that dip and strip furniture. The one I've used does an awesome job plus they 150 grit sand your piece before they give it back to you. Prices are usually reasonable...Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
The best stripper I've ever used is Kleen-Strip aircraft remover. I buy it at the local auto body supply store. Nasty stuff, but it works.
http://www.kleanstripauto.com/products/removers.html
Edited 6/15/2005 10:36 pm ET by Stuart
Stuart- Thanks for the response and the link- Guess I didn't know what I was asking for when I asked for the meanest stripper- They're meaner than I am-
Good Lord- Just occurs to me- Wonder if any I've already used contain mc or any of the other uglies? I need to read the destructions on those containers!
Yes but I forgot her Name..
The MC -based strippers are not so bad to work with, as long as you use the safety gear recommended above -- respirator, gloves, safety glasses. Different brands use varying amounts of MC; what you want to look for is a stripper that is rated as "nonflamable" -- which simply means there is enough MC in it to give it this rating. Generally speaking, real paint stores wil sell the better strippers. And they can be brands that are not national; my paint store sells something called "Marine Strip" by James Day-- which I suspect is distributed only in the Midwest.********************************************************
"I tend to live in the past because most of my life is there."
-- Herb Caen (1916-1997)
Hi nikkiwood ,
Where you been ? I hope all is well , long time no posts .
best wishes and a happy Fathers day to all Dads
dusty
Thanks for your info- Does "non-flammable" indicate a lesser % of mc?
<<"Thanks for your info- Does "non-flammable" indicate a lesser % of mc?">>No, sorry I wasn't more clear about this. MC is nonflammable, so if the stripper says "nonflammable" on the can, that indicates there is a sufficient amount of MC to render it so. If the can says "flammable" that generally means a relatively smaller amount of MC in the total mix.My knowledge of chemistry is pretty thin. I came by this info years ago, probably from Bob Flexner's book.********************************************************
"I tend to live in the past because most of my life is there."
-- Herb Caen (1916-1997)
Couple of is books are on my list- Thanks again- Dave
Flexner's UNDERSTANDING WOOD FINISHING is outdated, and it's not always as clear as it could be, but it is still the best book available for unraveling the mysteries of what's what in the array of finishing products.********************************************************
"I tend to live in the past because most of my life is there."
-- Herb Caen (1916-1997)
"Flexner's UNDERSTANDING WOOD FINISHING is outdated"...... Is this due to the introduction of new products? If so, have you a suggestion for a more up-to-date publication? I've read some of his stuff, and visit Homestead for some Jeff Jewitt from time to time- Certainly not disappointed in any of it, but would like to buy as current a reference as I can to have handy-
Thought I would not even dignify it. But good job for calling it.Gretchen
Flexner's book was published in 1994, and a lot of new stuff has come along since that time -- various water based finishes, stains (e.g. Transfast, Transtint) and glazes etc. etc. The ready availability of de-waxed shellac (Zinsser's Seal Coat) has also changed the way a lot of us do our finishing. Nonetheless, as a basic coverage of finishing fundamentals, it is still worth your time -- even though reading it is a bit of slog. Michael Dresdner and especially Jeff Jewitt have been turning out a lot of finishing books. I am not a great Jewitt fan, but of the two, I think his efforts are more worthwhile than Dresdner's. I assume you know that Jewitt sells his products online (Homestead Finishing), and he includes a lot of free how-to info on the site. I can post the link if you can't turn it up with Google.********************************************************
"I tend to live in the past because most of my life is there."
-- Herb Caen (1916-1997)
I think that 95% of what is in Flexner's book is still relevent for the non-professional finisher. There have beens some newer products put on the market but most of those are best left to the professional finisher. Partcularly relevent are his efforts to debunk many of the myths associated with finishes and finishing. IMO, finishing is 25% technical knowledge and 75% practise and experiance.
Jeff Jewitt's "Taunton Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing" is an excellent book for both the beginner and experianced finisher. It has much of the technical stuff contained in Flexner but is much more "how to do it" than Flexner.
Actually, I recommend both.Howie.........
I think that 95% of what is in Flexner's book is still relevent for the non-professional finisher.
And the operative word of Flexner's book is Understanding Wood Finishes.Gretchen
If the can says "flammable" that generally means a relatively smaller amount of MC in the total mix.
As a couple of us have said, choose the can that is HEAVIEST--it will have the most MC.Gretchen
Wrong Dave
It was probably Candy.
She wasn't a stripper, but I knew this topless dancer in Long Beach in the late 60's. She sure was mean, too........... - lol
(Another Dave)
Dave - Try applying your stripper and covering with plastic for an hour or so, then go at it with a plastic scraper and brass brush.
Ditto on Methelene Chloride--Jasco Premimum Brand.
Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
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