Hi Folks, Am about to construct a tool storage cabinet for underneath my new cabinet saw’ extension table.
My question is, I’m thinking of using 3/4″ MDF for the carcass and 1/2″ for the drawer bottoms but at least one drawer will be approximately 26″ wide to accommodate an Osborne miter gauge and other fairly wide tools. I like the 100 lb slides so the weight there shouldn’t be a problem, but what about a a wide MDF bottom? Will it sag in no time at all even if in dadoes? How would I brace it underneath if so? And last but not least, am I better off using Birch ply?
I have misplaced my furniture and cabinet construction book by Andy Rae which is why I’m asking.
Thanks everybody!
Brian
Edited 3/23/2008 2:12 am ET by BriMcG
Edited 3/23/2008 2:14 am ET by BriMcG
Replies
I'd go w/ the ply on that & forget about trying to reinforce the MDF. This shelf "sagulator" calculator might give you some ballpark answers on that just to get you in the ballpark.
http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm
Hey Thanks bd! Ran the numbers and came back OK. I've even decided on a differant design which will make it even stiffer.
Saved the Sagulator too. Great resource!
Thx again, Brian
If it is captive all of the way around, it shouldn't sag too badly. It only gets to be a problem if it sags so much that it drags on the drawer front below, or the cross-rail of the cabinet. The way to beat that, is to just give a little more room under the drawer, if you expect it.
I usually jump on up to 1/2" pw. when they start getting about this wide, if they are likely to be heavily loaded, like for pots and pans, but for this utility cabinet, I think you should be fine with 1/2" mdf.
Thanks Keith,
Picked up the MDF today. I have worked with it before but not much. Forgot how heavy and messy it is. It'll make a good utility cabinet though I hope.
Thx again, Brian
Might be a long stretch if you're putting heavy tools in it. You can attack this monkey from three directions .....
Thanks BC,
Well I built the carcass today but came down a bit in dimensions on the drawers which will be 20" wide and 22" deep which, according to the Sagulator" (check link), I will be OK. http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm
I built it so I have an enclosed shelf on top (enclosed on sides and open in front and back) where I can easily place the Osborne and also slide my fence in comfortably.
Now I get to do the things I have some trepidation over, not having much success at so far. Build quality drawers and figure out which drawer slides (glides?) to use. Saw a video on Wood mags site that makes building the drawers and installing the slides look fairly easy but I'm good at screwing it up hence the trepidation. I'm also going to install a face frame which I have never done but am waiting on a pocket hole jig to arrive in the mail.
I know, I think, that I have to plan the drawers to be not as wide as the opening by twice the thickness of the slides. If the drawers are 22" deep should I get 22" slides or 20"? Am going to be building the drawers as overlay drawers ( think that's the right term, where the front covers the opening and extends a bit past the faceframe).
Boy have I got a lot to learn.
Thanks again.
Brian
Edited 3/24/2008 10:09 pm ET by BriMcG
You got me. Danged drawer slides set my head in a confusion every time.
Good to know I'm not alone! I'll get it.
Thanks BC,
Brian
Agree with BC on his #2 solution if you are going to put in any major weight in it. Make the drawers 5/8" deeper and add a hard-wood strip from front to rear down the center under-neath. I just finished 6 chest drawers and that is my method as I don't trust the 1/4" ply I use for bottoms.
But.. in my case it kills two birds with one stone. I also DT that support strip with a female DT to act as a guide for a male DT strip in the carcass of the cabinet itself.
If the drawer will only have light stuff and you're sure... it may be find as a stand-alone..
Regards...
Sarge..
Thanks Sarge,
As you can tell from my reply to BC it's all coming along but this rookie is climbing what feels like a steep learning curve.
Have you ever checked out the "Sagulator"? Learned of it yesterday here. Pretty cool.
Thanks again.
http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm
I have not, Brian. I have a feeling the Sagulator wasn't around when I built my first drawer. I generally build my own slides (I suppose that is always compared to generally) and after all these years, just kind of know what thicknesses to use for bottoms and sides from having done it. Lots of trial an error those first 4-5 years with much as not much had been written and no inter-net. And here in the States.. there was no apprentice-ship on an established agenda as elsewhere.
I could have probably used the Sagulator from 1972 until around 1978 as those were some trying years for me as you are going through now. But it will come to you in a short time just as easily as operating a clutch.. shifting.. and right foot coordinated on the gas pedal. You will just know without having to give it a lot of thought. Trust me... :>)
Regards...
Sarge..
Thanks Sarge. I'll get it.
Brian
I built Norm's Workshop hutch http://www.newyankee.com/getphoto.php?0106 with six drawers as you have described with 1/2 inch plywood drawer bottoms. No evidence of sagging after storage of heavy equipment.
My drawers would be pretty wide, but, due to the lack of plentiful giant sized drawers and the lack of comfort they provide, I opt to go drawerless. But then again, that's just me. YMM and probably will V. <GRIN>
Harry
Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.
Edited 3/27/2008 4:45 pm by harrycu
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