Replies

1. 
   kreuzie | Feb 11, 2009 05:06am | #1

   MDF would be more stable, but not so durable. Why not use high pressure laminate (Formica or any brand) contact cemented to particle board or MDF? It would hold up better, plus give a very smooth surface that can be easily cleaned.

   kreuzie

    

    

1. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 11, 2009 05:16am | #2

   MDF would be more stable, but not so durable.

   Hell, the router bit never sees the table top....

   All my tables are MDF except for one cast iron one. I would say the cast iron no better!

   OK so I usually use my cast Iron one on my Table Saw...

2. 
   Thorvald | Feb 11, 2009 07:31am | #3

   I agree.  I've used both and I prefer the hard, slick surface of the formica over bare MDF.  The MDF surface is particularly susceptible to becoming bumpy and deteriorating because of water or coffee spills, glue accidents, etc.   The formica will clean up and stay flat and smooth. Verne

   If a tree falls in the forest, and no one is there to cut it up and make something with it . . . what a waste!<!----><!----><!---->

1. 
   kreuzie | Feb 12, 2009 06:26am | #8

   As an afterthought to my previous post- it might not hurt to laminate both top and bottom surfaces to prevent the substrate from doing tricks (I've had it happen).

   Kind of like applying finish to all surfaces of a project.

   kreuzie

2. 
   davidah | Feb 11, 2009 12:14pm | #4

   I built a router table with 3/4 inch baltic birch plywood, taking care to seal both sides and stiffen it with 1/8" by 2" by 2" aluminum angle. I found that despite this care it bowed. I did not use MDF because, despite an excellent flat surface I felt it was too soft and eventually I would damage it with water based glue/finishes (or tea/coffee) which can cause severe irreversible swelling  I eventually went first class and used a paper phenolic material called Richlite. It is flat, stiff and has a hard surface and is more or less impervious to water.  It machines beautifully and is easily worked with woodworking tools. It makes a superb router table top, but at a price!

   Good luck on your choice

1. 
   sinsin | Feb 11, 2009 05:41pm | #6

   What is your source for Richlite? If it's available north of the border, I'll look into that.

1. 
   davidah | Feb 12, 2009 08:47am | #11

   For my horizontal table I purchased an offcut directly from Richlite in Tacoma; however the last time I called them they said that they no longer offer offcuts.  For my vertical table which I am currently building, I have purchased some from Read Products in Seattle. It is a lot more expensive than the MDF with Formica skins but it is stiffer and can be drilled and tapped etc. Just fantastic stuff.

3. 
   gtieszen | Feb 11, 2009 04:01pm | #5

   I made one with a single sheet of 3/4in MDF, and after a relatively short time is sagged in the middle.  I re-built it by welding up a subframe of 1x1 sq steel tubing, then covered it with a piece of 3/4in melamine coated particle board (MDF and HPL would work just as well).  My point -- if you use MDF be sure there is some support frame under the MDF, or it might sag.  Maybe two sheets of 3/4 MDF glued together might be stiff enough that it wouldn't sag if you decide to go the MDF route.

   GT 

4. 
   James R. | Feb 12, 2009 03:51am | #7

   I made my router table top some years ago with 3/4" and 1/2" MDF glued together and covered with laminate and edged with hardwood. It's been flat and solid for at least seven years, however the Richlite sounds like it would save a lot of time and work versus the way I did it.

   Good luck, Jim

5. 
   MKenney | Feb 12, 2009 06:35am | #9

   You can use MDF or a nice piece of multi-ply (think Baltic birch). If you want to keep it flat, glue the top down to a torsion box like structure. If you glue a thin sheet of ply to the bottom, it will be very rigid.

   I'm making a router table (using multi-ply) right now. The top will sit on a base made from ash, which will give further support to the top.

   Best of luck. Matt

   This is my personal signature.
6. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Feb 12, 2009 06:40am | #10

   Like James.. I laminated 1 sheet of 3/4" MDF with a sheet of 1/2".. then formica on both sides and edges. Took mine a step further and re-enforced with angle iron under the insert using the outer cabinet the top sits on as an attach point.

   6 years ago and still flat as the day I made it which surprised me somewhat but it was a happy surprise.

   Sarge..

7. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 13, 2009 04:47pm | #12

   I use the MDF.

   I sealed the edges with glue..

   All that the MDF would take. The top, I just waxed as I think about it..

   NONE have failed me!