Ok, So I am thinking of building a book case/mantal for relative (yes I know I said I don’t do this in another post but note I am NOT charging, this is a gift and I am even paying for materials)
What I am looking at is basically two book case on each side of the fire place. Each about 2′ wide by about 4′ tall (these are ball bark sizes) so you would have two of these per side for about 4 foot by 4 foot. Plus a nice top and a mantel to go between them over the fire place (all built to clear the fire place per code). This would be painted white like the time in the room.
However I have NEVER used MDF or done a painted project before. So what should I know about this? I assume I will use something like poplar (sp?) to do the front of the shelf for strength. Can you do shelf pins? What do I need to do different then for solid wood and stained finishes?
Any help would be nice.
Doug
Replies
Why not just make it all out of solid poplar? Much nicer than working with MDF in my opinion.
MDF is a great material but it isn't the most durable material. Therefore, I would use plywood for the main structural components and use MDF and Poplar for the other pieces. MDF would work well for trim, panels, small shelves, etc.
Good luck!
Doug, a retired professional painter told me to prime MDF with oil base primer-not latex. You can then use a latex acrylic enamel over the primer. Poplar is a good wood to paint due to the closed grain.
As far as shelf pins, I would buy the ones with the little metal cups that fit into the drilled holes to give extra support in MDF. They are available at Rockler.
Good luck!
Dennis
Mostly the reason I was thinking MDF is the cost factor. It is cheaper then plywood and solid wood. I know a LOT of people use it and the book cases are going in a Mc Mansion that is not the highest quality. Also this is not an hand it down item as it will go with the house when that gets sold in a few years time. So if MDF works why spend the money on something better that we will not get the benefit out of.
Doug
According to my experience, MDF is a challenge as any other types of material. There are some pros and some cons.
As mentionned on another post, use oil paint since it will seal better and it won't raise the grain (should I say the fibers).
This bed (attached) I made for my daughter is all (I mean all) made out of MDF (Oups + glue + screws + few bolts). One coat of Barn Red stain, on coat of Cabernet stain and 3 coats of gloss poly (all oil base).
You can also take a look at the bookcase I'm building out of MDF (back panel is hardboard) on my web site at http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org/Encours.htm It's about the same size as yours.
Best,
Serge- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org
Doug,MDF can make fine bookshelves as you describe. You don't need to limit yourself to 3/4" thickness either - we very often double the sheets to get shelves and walls that are 1 1/2" thick. Use solid poplar edging on every part.If you've got a good dowelling system it is an efficient way to put MDF together. Biscuits work also, but I prefer dowels. You can use screws to draw things up tight, but don't rely on them for the joint strength. (The best screws for MDF are the Confirmat type).Regarding the finish, you can easily spackle any cracks and scratches before your primer goes on. And if you want the finish to perfectly match the walls you can use a small roller to put on the last coat.David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
"You don't need to limit yourself to 3/4" thickness either "
Good point David. However, one shelf X"-thick can support Y lbs, two X"-thick stacked shelves can support Y lbs X 2, and two X"-thick laminated shelves can support Y lbs X 4. In other words, if you can't get thicker MDF, you better laminate to get thicker shelves.
Best,
Serge
- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org
Edited 8/3/2008 10:19 am ET by bricofleur
Doug ,
MDF does paint well , and for some applications is the number one choice .
I use it for panels in Frame and panel doors and such . I do a fair share of paint grade work in fact I have a shop full right now , I won't use mdf to build the boxes out of again .
The weight factor is tremendous . I typically use Maple plywood or such in a shop grade for the boxes and Poplar is good for the solids .
Just to give you another option , you indicated cost was important , you could use White Melamine to build the cases and shelves out of and use iron on edge banding and make some mdf end panels and mantle tops .
dusty
Heres a picture of a painted vanity with mdf panels and Poplar
My own preference would be Birch ply over MDF. Stronger, accepts paint well and can handle shelf pins. As careful as you can be, it just seems that MDF edges are just too touchy for my liking.
This mimics what others have said.
I use MDF for panels only, 3/4 cab, birch or maple ply for case work and verticals, same for long shelves and poplar for all edge, rail, styles. (As long as I'm doing long shelves out of ply, I stay with it for the short shelves also) Cup pin holders but in ply it's a wash - sometimes overkill. Wouldn't use pins in MDF at all. I don't think it has the strength for serious load (3 -4 foot shelves) at only 3/8 depth although you see it all the time in bulk commercial work. Just me.
All primed,sanded, 3 coats or better finish paint. If not doing cat finish, will sand paint between each coat. Oil base if possible and time for dry down available. Cat finish otherwise. Dusty does a lot more of this.
Well max span on these would be 1'10 1/2" And as I said cost in an issue. It is a LOT more for birch then for MDF. IF I decide not to do it in MDF I doubt I will end up building it at all. As I can not justify the cost for a gift that will stay with the house in a couple years when it is sold. Only reason I am thinking of doing this is that the person has wanted shelfs on this wall for several years now and it just never seamed to happen.
Doug
Doug , Why not make a free standing book case or such ?
They could take it with them .
d
Doug,
I've done bookshelves like this in MDF with minimal problems. Only real issue is the edges of MDF aren't real smooth, and look rough when painted. But, a thin strip of poplar works wonderfully (and isn't expensive at all). So, I say go for it.
Bob
MDF will work well for what you propose. It's relatively cheap, works well and takes a good finish. I make each section of shelves like a freestanding unit then clamp and screw them together which makes the standards 1 1/2" thick. I install a trim piece over that to conceal the edges. For shelves I use the same trim piece glued and nailed to a single thickness of MDF. As long as you don't try to span too far they'll hold up fine. I Use pins to support the shelves and make them adjustable. Here's some I'm still finishing.
Yeah a baby (small) version of that is pretty much what is being looked for.
Doug M
Florida,
That is a nice looking project you've got going there. Do you have any more pics that you could share? I'd enjoy seeing more.
Disagree with the other poster that 'MDF is a great material'. As shelving, if it doesn't sag immediately, it will sag over time. As trim it is too flexible/requires additional nailing and support AND has the unique ability to shrink siginificantly along its lengh (rather than just along it's width, like wood), so that almost any joint can open up months after you have expertly installed and calked it. Also, since I don't know what's in it, I have serious questions about the environmental effects of manufacturing and dumping it. Workable, sure, but not enjoyable, educational or enduring. Go with poplar at least!
Brian
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