Replies

1. 
   mrbird90 | Mar 20, 2009 05:51pm | #1

   On all my cutting boards I apply a coat of mineral oil, it is completely edible and can be taken as a laxative. You can purchase it at a pharmacy. I will not go rancid and can be applied as needed to keep the surface preserved.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 20, 2009 06:52pm | #2

   Bonjour (that's the limit of my French). Here is something that might help.

   There is a little engineering that needs to be considered when building an end grain butcher block or cutting board. First, choose wood where the growth rings (viewed from the end) run as close to 90 degrees or parallel to one edge. Remember, the expansion/contraction is about double along the annular rings verses perpendicular to the rings. You've got to keep the grain running in the same direction as you glue up your strips. In other words, don't glue a flatsawn edge to a quartersawn edge.

   Next, the way butcher blocks are made is to glue up strips of wood like you were making a laminated type cutting board. These laminated panels are then run through a planer to flatten them and bring them to equal thickness. Then the panel is crosscut into strips of blocks equal to the thickness that you want the butcher block to be. These block strips are then glued together again keeping the grain running in the same directions.

   Not paying attention to the grain orientation will lead to the block cracking and/or joints being pulled apart.

   A type II adhesive will work just fine however, you need to be sure you do everything right to get good adhesion. Your glue faces should be flat and freshly cut. It they were cut more than a few days earlier, freshen them up with about three swipes with 320 sandpaper and block to keep the faces flat.

   Generally, threaded rod is not used as maple has quite a bit of movement when it's moisture content changes. Threaded rod would restrict this movement and either deform the block or pull the nut/washers into the wood when it expanded leaving the rod performing no function when the wood later shrinks. Proper gluing will keep the block together.

   Finally, it always much cheaper, and a lot less aggravating to purchase a butcher block than to make one. The firms that specialize in end grain butcher blocks have specialized equipment to apply the necessary clamping force, plane the initial boards exactly correctly, plane the first glue up and then clamps to make the final block.

   Here is something else:

   An excellent treatment for wooden food preparation surfaces like cutting boards and butcher blocks is a mixture of mineral oil and either paraffin or beeswax. This is what is used on many commercial wood surfaces. It will last longer and be more protective than just mineral oil. Mineral oil can be found in most supermarkets in the pharmacy section or in a true pharmacy. Paraffin is found in the canning section of the store or in a hardware store.

   Heat the oil in a double boiler and shave in some wax. The exact proportions are not critical--a 5-6 parts of oil to one part of wax will work fine. Stir the mixture until all the wax is liquefied. Apply the mixture heavily and let it set 10-12 hours or overnight. Next day do it again and continue until the wood will no longer absorb the finish. Let it set for 10-12 hours and then lightly scrape off any excess. Then buff it with a rag.

   Reapply whenever the wood begins to look dry.

   Howie.........
1. 
   patricklamcoil | Apr 02, 2009 02:39pm | #4

   Hi howietank for your advice not shure of keeping the grain all the same way.after you cut the 8/4in to stip of 2 x 2 lenth in the process i probably lost whitch is the and or the begainning of the board. my understanding of wood grain is not to clear.by the way the bloc is finishe and look great. i prety well use your tecknique, even know the project was well on is way before i post my
   question. didn t know about quater saw , but dont thing will be a problem , the stock i bouthg strait grain select maple. also in the second gluing , the baord cut in to strip end then glue up right i glue them over lapinp each joint giving the efect of domino baord reinforcing all joint. well time will tell. shure much easyer to by one but very gratifying to make on this size 5.5 thick x 32 in x 60 inh.and much sheper.p.s.
   here is a verry good truck to sqare a bloc this size whit a sample roter. take to paralelle flat bar or wood clamp to each side 1/4 inch above bloc then use to moore paralle bar on the oposite , not clamp , put a large base of plexy glass on your roter 12 x 8 inch and make as many pass you need till your bit touch the bloc complitely.repeat the process on each side using the first as referance
   et voila you will save your shoulder and arm from houre of and planning than finishe whit belt sander progresively 80, 100, 150, 220. tanks to every on for your advice Patrick L.

3. 
   MikeIke | Mar 20, 2009 07:35pm | #3

   Good Morning, Patrick!
   I had really nice luck with a finish sold at Woodcraft that is a tung oil based topcoat. I applied it with a 6 inch paint pad, and it laid out very smoothly. This 3 coat application required very little sanding, between coats, and has stood up very well. The name of the finish is Waterlox Original Satin Finish.

   My top is made of two large Maple lab benchtops, one of which I cut about 8 inches away, hand jointed and glued to the other whole top. I used biscuits to help in aligning, and took care to clamp adequately. Here is a picture