Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Jan 05, 2006 12:02am | #1

   for this size piece, hand-sand it.

    

2. 
   Pondfish | Jan 05, 2006 12:52am | #2

   If you have a drill press and a drum sanding set for it, you can cobble together a thickness planer using a fence and the sanding drum.

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
3. 
   JeffHeath | Jan 05, 2006 01:39am | #3

   Plane it smooth with your plane with the grain, or wrap some sandpaper around a flat block of wood and sand it smooth.

   Jeff

4. 
   PeteBradley | Jan 05, 2006 01:44am | #4

   For bigger pieces, I find a card scraper works well.

   Suffolk and others sell veneer blades that are slow but leave a very high-quality cut.

   Pete

5. 
   highfigh | Jan 05, 2006 01:55am | #5

   Depending on how many boards/panels you need to surface, you can call some local cabinet shops and find out if they'll do it for you. It may be worth the money and will be very flat, so you would just need to do the finish sanding. Otherwise, a scraper, scraper plane or a smooth plane will get them looking good. If you end up sanding them, set up a downdraft sanding box so the dust won't go everywhere. Walnut dust tends to be extremely fine and can be irritating. OTOH, it does sand pretty easily. To keep from sanding through the veneer, I would probably cut it a bit thicker, though- more like 1/8".

   Another thing I learned the hard way is that with extremely thin veneers, you don't want to use water based glue. It curls up like a paper towel roll and is a royal PITA. Next time, I'm using urea formaldehyde or something like that. PVA is fine for thicker veneers, though.

   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
6. 
   beachfarm | Jan 05, 2006 02:57am | #6

   Sandpaper.

7. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Jan 05, 2006 08:38am | #7

   Depends on how rough the bandsaw marks are.   My saw leaves marks shallow enough that I can just glue it down without any clean-up.   The glue line may be a little thick in some grooves, but it is thin right nearby.   That's good enough to firmly fasten veneer.   If the saw marks are a little coarser, you may want to knock the tallest ridges off with a plane or a cabinet scraper, but remember you don't really need to make it perfect.  Think about the quality of the laminate faces inside of plywood.   They're not perfect, but the plywood holds together just fine.

   After you get your veneer glued to a substrate, you can scrape it or sand it without fear of ripping it apart.  Heck, with 1/16" of thickness, you can run it through a thickness planer -- I've done it.

8. 
   jazzdogg | Jan 05, 2006 08:55am | #8

   Hi Greg,

   In addition to what others have already said, you might want to take a few minutes to closely examine the sawn surfaces before sanding - they are a record of your sawing efforts that can provide valuable clues to help you improve the quality of future resawing. As you become more skillful at resawing, you'll be able to see your progress in the texture of the sawn surfaces.

   If you catalog a leaf of unsanded veneer from each resawing job for awhile, you'll see first-hand how far you've come in a few months.

   Enjoy the journey,

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 05, 2006 04:49pm | #10

   Why not glue the veneer good side down and then plane (or sand, if you must) off the saw marks as if they were on solid wood.  With care, the thickness should support this.  This is real veneer, not the paper thin stuff sold now.  Of course, the saw marks shouldn't be so heavy as to prevent using a veneer hammer to secure the veneer to the surface. 

9. 
   spindle | Jan 05, 2006 03:36pm | #9

   Thanks for everyone's responses.  I'll try your suggestions out over the next couple of days.

   Greg

10. 
    woodsmanplus | Jan 05, 2006 05:55pm | #11

    Hello you don't say what type of blade you are using.That is important.I work exclusivly with burl and figured wood.I make custum one of a kind jewery boxes,so tearout can be a problem .Being that most of my pieces a are 10" wide or less I bought a 10-20 performax drum sander.But back to the blade.I Highland tools sells a very popular blade called the woodslicer.I have a smaller bandsaw than yours and this blade cost me 29.00 and I can cut 1/8 veneers with it.Then I run it thru the drum sander and it works great.I don't know the extent of your woodworking,but if do very much this is the easiest way to go for making veneer and working with any kind of figured wood.

    Good luck

    Ken