Help!!! I built two end tables and a coffee table out of Cherry. The customer decided she wanted it darker. I mean “Several Shades” darker. I had put a coat of shellac on one piece when she surprised me. I stripped the shellac and proceeded to make like a chemist and mix aniline dyes, fresco colors in the shellac, gel stain (Walnut) over shellac. To sum up, I can’t seem to get a decent coat of anything on the scrap wood. It blotches, no matter what the books say about shellac. Also I can’t get a dark enough color. Has anyone had the need to darken Cherry to this extent? I would prefer a simple mix of color with shellac, top coated with Urethane. ( Her cats climb on everything) It will mean the end of the free world as we know it if I can’t get help!!! Seriously, my thanks, in advance, for any assistance..
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Single, retired woodworker, living on a lake in a National Forest…where did I go wrong?
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Replies
Usually you need to give cherry a wash coat of shellac in order to keep it from getting blotchie with stain. .
I'd take the scrap pieces outside in the bright sunlite for a week or so or get one of those sunlamps (special bulb) focused on it and see if that's closer to what she wants.. If it is explain to her that cherry will darken naturally with sunlite and provide a wonderful patina of almost black wood with exposure to sunlite.. a Patina that looks mottled or even painted if you attempt it with stain. A patina that comes only with time if she wants the real deal..
This is one of those deals where how you explain things to her will be more important than the actaul results..
She cannot be made to feel foolish. If she does no matter what you achieve she will be unhappy. Most women don't realize that cherry starts out pink and acquires it's look with age and not with stain..
Edited 7/26/2009 7:42 pm ET by frenchy
Edited 7/26/2009 7:48 pm ET by frenchy
I have tried a shellac coat with both gel and liquid stain. They both blotch. It matters not how dilute or strong the shellac is, or how the stain is applied(rag or brush), it still blotches. My feeling is that is one of the hidden benefits of Cherry. Without spraying a toner, a blotch-free finish is just not possible. I am in the process of re-trying stain samples, and some do show promise...I will handle the customer as suggested..she is a neighbor and a friend. Thank you for the really quick response..it is appreciated...also, thanks to OMAH3 and Steve Schoene for their replies. This is a great forum with much information available...Single, retired woodworker living on a lake in a National Forest...why do I put up with it.......
Be sure that the light in your shop is what she has in her bedroom. I forgot the name of the term but your light source will play the devil with certain dyes and stains. Also I was just reading an old copy of FW where this one guy used Bartley's gel stain and varish over a dye that had been sealed with shellac. I think he was finising a porringer table. Any way good luck, and if you're interested I can see if I can find that old article.Omah.
Metamerism.
Do you have spray capabilities? That's by far the best way to use a toned finish as you are proposing.
Without spraying, it is usually best to work with a number of separate steps. Powdered water soluble aniline dye, by itself directly on the bare wood. The lighter you can get away with the easier it is to avoid noticeable blotches. Then you can seal with blonde shellac, and if you still need to get darker you can apply a gel stain with reduced risk of blotching.
And, as a general matter of dealing with clients is to have them sign off on a substantially sized finish sample, before you put finish onto wood. That helps them see what they want, and of course if it matches the sample, but is now too light, then great, it's an up-charge for refinishing. ( I know that's a bit unrealistic, an up-charge that would really pay for the re-do very well could lose the customer--even if they decide that don't want it done.)
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