Replies

1. 
   rholland54 | May 19, 2002 05:14am | #1

   I have built several pieces with mahagony, and recently starting using dye stains and lacquer.  I like the dye stains because they are easier to adjust the color and have better clarity.  I have never used fillers with mahagony,  I typically brush on 6 to 8 coats of lacquer to fill the pores.  The lacquer is easy to rub out, I use wet-or-dry sand paper starting with 400 grit and go to 1200.  Then depending on the sheen I will continue on to rubbing compounds or just use steel wool to get a nice satin finish.   I am just finishing a dining table of Mahogany and am considering a different finish that will be more durable than lacquer, maybe varnish.  But the rubbing qualities of lacquer are hard to beat.  Good luck.

   
   

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   Edited 5/18/2002 11:35:06 PM ET by RHOLLAND54

1. 
   RLMillard | May 20, 2002 03:53am | #2

   I think you can get what you are looking for, by buying a neutral pore filler and tinting it to match your final color. One potential problem with this is, the wood will change color over time. You can also apply many coats of finish and sand them back, but this has its problems too, it takes a long time and the finish in the pores can shrink. You can avoid some of the plastic look by using gloss finish only, since semi-gloss and satin finishes tend to look cloudy when applied in many coats.

1. 
   dperfe | May 20, 2002 05:05am | #3

   Thanks for the help eom.

2. 
   suzy | Dec 27, 2002 06:10am | #5

   i am looking for a finish for a mahogany bench that i just made.  i want the top to be smooth as glass, if i can get it.  i have read about pore fillers at this site, and am trying to learn about them.  you say that you do not use pore fillers. would you please fill me in. thanks

1. 
   forestgirl | Dec 27, 2002 07:58am | #7

   Just passing through, thought I'd drop a suggestion -- before you make a final decision, drop a line over at Jeff Jewitt's web site, in the forum and see what kinds of tips he might have for you.  I've had my frustrations with pore fillers, but am pretty sure it's more due to the brand and type I was using than anything else.  Jeff has a good selection at his site, and will assist you with application tips.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   mrles | Dec 27, 2002 08:41am | #8

   I've used shellac mixed with boiled linseed oil 50/50 as a finish and grain filler. apply with a cloth, let dry (don't take long) buff with 0000 steel wool. Apply additional coats until grain is filled. I put a coat of linseed oil on first.

   I've used this finish on oak and walnut with very good success.

   I would not use this on a table top as shellac will ring if someone sets a wet glass on it.

   God Bless

   les

3. 
   PlaneWood | Dec 28, 2002 06:19am | #10

   I use "Benjamin Moore Wood Grain Filler" on Mahogany.  Work it into the grain with a spatula then wipe with a rag across grain.  Will take a day or more to dry under ideal conditions.  Longer if the humidity is high.  Sand or scrape and apply a 2nd coat if necessary.  I do this before applying the stain.  This filler is basically clay disolved in mineral spirits.   It will become invisible after staining and/or finishing.  Am able to get a glass smooth finish with it.  I usually finish with several coats of hand rubbed poly then 0000 steel wool and a power buffer.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood

1. 
   suzy | Dec 29, 2002 06:21am | #11

   thanks for the help.  i am constantly amazed by how  much there is to learn about furniture making.  putting a clay slurry onto wood seems bizarre to me. that it winds up being invisible......?i will try it out.  just bought the flexner book on finishing wood, and it is great.

2. 
   Hempstalk | May 20, 2002 10:10am | #4

   One option would be to use a clear pore filler under you lacquer topcoats.  It's sold through a few places that I know of.  One is Stewart Macdonald.  This ones a supplier for instrument makers.  I also belive that Homestead finishing products sell a brand of this as well.  The one I've used is water based.  I clear coated with high solids lacquer.  Around 12 coats.  Looks good.  Another option would be to use an industrial pore filler that you spray on.  I've never used this product so I can't say what kind of results it gives but Mohawk Finishing sells this product.  It might be right for the job.

3. 
   suzy | Dec 27, 2002 06:14am | #6

   can you tell me a little more about dye/ water based stain and the  lacquer finish that you mention.  did yo like the way your project turned out???  if so, can you give me some brand names that you used, so that i can play with them on my project? thanks

1. 
   dperfe | Dec 27, 2002 09:14pm | #9

   I havn't actually gone forward with any mahogany projects yet.  My attention has been on a big pile of maple I purchased recently.  FWIW, from the sample pieces I've worked with, I tend to like the water based dye with pores filled.  Here's a link to a good dye source http://www.wdlockwood.com/main.html Sorry I can't help you further.

   -DP