Several years ago my wife bought me a Record #3, #5, #7. I have since bought a LV 4 1/2, Stanley 60 1/2, LV BU smoother, etc., but my #3 is my “go to” plane for bench work. I cannot afford a LV or LN #4, so would like to upgrade the #3 with a better blade. Which one should I buy LV or Hock? Also, if I buy the LV, A2 or O1? Probably the A2, it keeps an edge longer. Thanks to all in advance! Pete
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
PCM
Don't try to overthink
PCM
Don't try to overthink it. LV, Hock, and LN all make excellent replacement blades for your Record. Make sure you choose the correct blade thickness that will work with your plane.
At one time, I had an entire set of Stanley Bedrock planes that I used at my bench. I replaced all the thin, original irons with new iron's from Hock. They were all very, very good, and improved the performance of the plane.
You will get the same quality from either of those 3 makers, so pick one, and start making shavings.
Jeff
PCM: Good advice from Jeff. I purchased a Hock iron and chipbreaker for my Type 9 No. 3. I think that the chipbreaker makes a difference and is worth the extra $$$. Merry Christmas to you!
-Jerry
Without a doubt, the chipbreaker is as important as any other part of the tool. An improperly tuned chipbreaker can cause unnecessary jams, even with the sharpest of stiff irons. In case I didn't mention it in my original post, I replaced BOTH the iron AND the chipbreaker, all from Hock.
Jeff
I have one of each. One in a Stanley Bailey #4, one in a Stanley Bailey #5. They are both excellent. A definite upgrade of each plane. Am currently debating whether or not to upgrade my "new" pre 1900 Stanley #6, and Miller's Falls #9. Have been tempted on a chipbreaker or two but haven't pulled the trigger yet.
Can't go wrong with either one.
Thank you all!
Pete
Pete
The info from the others is all good and worth considering. The only additional input I would make is considering the high carbon blade from Hock. I have a couple A2 blades here in my shop and I really like using them in my old 3 and 4 planes. Like the others stated, the chipbreaker makes a difference and I would not overlook that.
I called Ron and talked for a bit as I wanted another blade and chipper for my #3(my workhorse). Ron was strongly pushing me to the high carbon blade. I did it.
I am skilled at sharpening. Won't bore you with details. I have found that I can get the high carbon the sharpest time after time. I can feel the difference. True I am back on the leather or diamond paste a little more often but the performance is just great. The price of the HC is a little less and this tends to make buyers think it is inferior to the harder steel on the market. Ron says he loves the HC for the reasons I pointed out. Now... another factor to consider?? Truthfully, just get a new blade, tune up the plane and get to work. Its all good stuff.
In part Dan says, "...I have found that I can get the high carbon the sharpest time after time. I can feel the difference...
I can feel the difference in use and on the sharpening stones. O-1, W-1, 1095 or the other high carbon steels are lively and resilient in use or when sharpening. You can hear it ring by running your thumb over the side edge of the steel. A-2 is dead, lifeless and flat on the stones and in use; it just doesn't give the feed-back of the simpler high carbon steels.
I was always sure I could see the difference when looking at the wire edge when sharpening. I've always judged old edge tools by the fine quality of the wire edge produced when sharpening. I don't know for sure but I always attributed a coarse and ragged wire edge to coarse grain structure that I always attributed to overheating abuse in an old tool's past. A-2 has always had this same kind of wire edge when I sharpen it.
I happen to have a plane by one of the modern makers that has two identical irons for it. I replaced the original A-2 iron with a high carbon steel iron. A few days ago after a similar discussion to this on another forum I sharpened both irons at the same time, something I'd never done before. I raised wire edges on both irons on my fine stone and examined them with just a 10X loup. I thought the difference was dramatic.
I took both irons to Don's bench and set them down and handed him the loup. I asked if he could see the difference. He looked at the first one he picked up and said something like, "Oh, brother--this one has to be the A-2." Then he looked at the second iron and confirmed that the first had to be A-2. He got them right, of course.
I don't really care what steel others want to invest their faith in. I'm convinced the same properties that show up in a wire edge also show up in the edge itself.
Pete,
On the Millers Falls #9 mine has a two piece/hinged (?) chipbreaker that when fettled works quite well. Not sure how aftermerket chipbreakers might work on that particular plane. Just something to keep in mind.
Regards,
I've got a bunch of MF planes
I've got a bunch of MF planes (just stating a fact, not bragging or gloating... hee, hee, hee....) and the heavy chipbreakers work just fine with the two-piece MF lever caps. Merry Christmas to you, Bob!!
-Jerry
Again, to all,
Thanks for your advice!
I will buy a chipbreaker with the blade, probably Hock.
I also have a Dunlap on the shelf, from an auction, will dust off and ask if it is anything worth "fettling".
Cold here, 36 at 6 a.m., only 56 high.
Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, Happy Holidays to you all.
Pete
Hi Jerry,
Good to know about the blades working with the MF chipbreakers, wasn't sure. Right back at ye on the Merry Christmas thang, and to all you Fine folks too.
Regards,
I just "restored" a rusty Dunlap #4. I was planning to sell it on ebay, but it works well so I might keep it. I had never heard of Dunlap, but after a little googling I found it was the low end brand sold by Sears. Good Luck.
I have a couple of Dunlap planes myself, along with a Stanley "handyman". A Hock blade and a little tuning removes them from the paperweight category and turns them into tools :-) They still don't compare to a LN, but for a couple bucks at a garage sale, they're worth salvaging.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled