I got a request on another forum for more details on my lumber storage than were in the original HTML, so I’ve updated the page. If you’re interested, click here.
forestgirl — you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can’t take the forest out of the girl 😉
Another proud member of the “I Rocked With ToolDoc Club” …. :>)
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Jamie, I'm curious. The rope that's hanging down, does it automatically fall down over the neck of someone trying to relieve you of some of your stash??
Fester
That rope is activated by a sensor arrangement triggered by any movement of the big walnut slabs. ToolDoc and JT (Sarge) were extremely persistent about finding ways to invade and spirit them away!
Actually, that's the string to the light, bundled up to stay out of the way.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Edited 8/8/2005 9:07 pm ET by forestgirl
Thanks for the post, Jamie.
Is a lighting update next on your to-do list? ;-)
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
I add lighting fixtures as I can afford them. The side opposite the lumber rack is much brighter. In the meantime, I have two big halogen sets I can use (and did for the big picture). What would really help would be to line the ceiling with white hardboard, but I have to get hubby and his son to clear out some of their stuff up there in the rafters, and that's not likely to happen any time soon!
Biggest problem is the lack of electrical outlets. There is nothing permanent on 3 of the 4 walls -- everything is 12-gauge extension cords. It's helpful that there are two oulet boxes in the ceiling. I've run wire to two areas on the north wall. Still need to get juice to the west and south walls, and get the 220V outlet installed on the east wall. I do fine until it comes to playing with the breaker box, then I get cold feet. :-)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
And there's even a wee bit of lumber in it! A lumber rack is nice....a full lumber rack is even better! Apparently it's plenty strong! Nice job....
Edited 8/9/2005 9:14 pm ET by knot scott
Forestgirl,
I was just looking at those plans in WoodSmith last week. I was thinking about building it but instead went with the Triton lumber rack system. Though seeing yours, I wished I had gone with the woodsmith plans. For future reference, I found it the the woodsmith "The Home Workshop" book, published by Oxmoor House (page 100).
Thanks for pictures, (though a week too late) :)
Dave
Ahhhh, Woodsmith! I thought it was one of that press' publications.
"though a week too late" -- who knows, you might need more lumber space some day! I'm going to built another set to the left of the ones in the pic, but they'll only be from about 6-feet on up.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Forest! I thought ya ladies sort of 'neat'.. Geeee...
Wood pile looks like my drawer of socks! All messed up!
Well I had my mind made up on a racking system, but I'm not a week to late, because I haven't started yet, which is good because I like what you've built better.(Thanks for the pics.)
The best part is, I have a ton of short ends of conduit left over, from other projects, so I already have the most expensive part of the racks paid for.
The price of that EMT has doubled in the last couple of years.
Cheers. Walker1
Edited 8/10/2005 4:20 pm ET by Walker1
Hey, that's great that you can use up some scrap pipe! Is the conduit as heavy as the plumbing pipe (you can tell I don't know the technical names for these things)??
What I really like about this arrangement vs. one that uses 2x4 supports is that the pipes are easily moved. If you want more space between two stacks you just pull out the pipes, rearrange however you want!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I have about 40' of this type of rack. I put my uprights closer together (about 24") to better support the lumber. I recomind more than 1 lag bolt.
Also I belive that the pipe is 1/2" ID. you can use black iron pipe, galvinazed or Rockler has some zinc plated.
Shane
Ah! You caught my typo -- kinda hard to have 1" ID when the OD is only .85" ooooooops.
The wooden part of the wall has pretty limited space available for lag bolts. That's why the "header brace" is in there -- perhaps you didn't notice that? It provides a great deal of protection against the rack pulling away from the wall.
I don't think I'd use black pipe for this. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Black Iron pipe, is plumbing pipe. It's used for plumbing natural gas, among other things.
Cheers. Walker1
Edited 8/10/2005 10:22 pm ET by Walker1
I'm clueless about pipe -- was thinking you meant the black pipe such as the stuff we put Pony pipe clamps on. Doesn't that stain? I meant to check at HD last night and see what they call the pipe I used in the lumber rack. Doesn't seem "galvanized" 'cause it doesn't have that extra coating stuff, but maybe it is galvanized and just different.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I have a rack similar to yours. I used 3/4" black iron pipe. To prevent the staining, I slid a piece of 3/4" sched 20 pvc pipe over the iron pipe. It fits fine, and has worked for a couple years now.
Great idea with the PVC. I'm curious, is black pipe cheaper, or stronger? I just blindly followed directions on the pipe thing, so never considered the black pipe.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I have 24" pipes 16" OC, three tiers, for a total height of about 4' off the floor, about 10' long. The rack can hold more lumber than I have ever been able to afford.
I don't remember the pipe being cheap, especially buying it precut, and in all those pieces, but I needed something, and that's the best I could do at the time. It seems plenty strong, though. I believe the 2X4s would give at the holes before the pipe went.
The sched 20 PVC is so cheap as to be almost free. Even better if you have it laying around already!
"especially buying it precut" -- That's where I got lucky I guess. Home Depot was great -- I told the guy in plumbing that I needed x-number of 8' pipes. Mentioned that I needed them cut into 15" pieces, and he just did it gratis. Never hurts to ask!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I recomind more than 1 lag bolt. Just me... If the upright sits on the floor only one lag bolt at the top is needed.. To keep it from tipping outward away from the wall...BUT I put one on top/middle/bottom.. to be safe..
When Dennis comes back, he's going to be very hurt that you guys aren't paying attention to that brace at the top.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
No way is that conduit heavy enough. I thought with the short length It would be fine, but I just tried a stress test , forget about It. I'm never going to use up that crap.
Oh well, have to go get some Black Iron pipe.
Cheers. Walker1
3/4 OR 1 inch conduit WILL hold up ALOT!.. Not as much as steel pipe but MUCH easier to cut and a heck of alot cheeper...Most it will do on a really heavy load of wood is tear the wall studs out!
Forrestgirl, you have a very fine rack!
Come one, SOMEBODY had to say it..
"Come one, SOMEBODY had to say it.." Oh, believe me, they have! When I first posted about "the rack" being finished. Too funny!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I am building lumber rack and have been looking at yours. I was going to use 2x4's where you use pipe--but maybe I should switch to pipe. Does anyone have any thoughts on drilling hole 90 degrees and pitching the 2x4's 4 or 5 degrees to add tilt? I am doing this in basement and it's getting hung from joist. I can't attach to brick wall. Did you level the pipes?
Thanks
Marion
"Did you level the pipes?" I'm not quite understanding that part. Elucidate, please?
"and it's getting hung from joist." Be sure the bottoms of the 2x4s are firmly seated on the floor. Methinks you don't want that weight on the joist. Construction guys can answer the question about tilting out the 2x4's better than I can, but I will say that intuitively it makes me nervous.
Can you drill into the floor?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Level pipes--Did you put a level across the pipes so they are all the same height? I have house built in 1903 with wood floors in basement--except in room I want to put wood rack. The floor is concrete for furnace(fire) protection and I would bet it is 6 to 12 inches deep so it will bear weight of rack--more than the joists, but even the joists are close to sill and weight should be okay. I guess I cut drill holes on drill press--it just seems like a lot of setup. I hope this is clear.
Thanks
OK, gotcha. Yes, I did something to ensure the pipes were level, but I don't remember exactly how I did it. I do remember ganging the 2x4's up to mark the cross-hairs for the holes. The set-up wasn't too bad. I had to buy a new drill press (awwww, darn!) because the baby one I had didn't have enough depth. Tilted the table, provided support on both sides and just went at it. I may have had to adjust the lenth of any 2x4's that were a little high due to floor uneveness, don't remember.
I made my pipes only 15" long because of the close quarters and I just hate bumping my head on things! I might replace the upper ones with longer pipes so as to have a little more storage capacity up there.
On a concrete floor, with lack of bolts through into the wall, I'd be tempted to get a wrap-around plate of some sort and screw it into the floor at the foot. (like the ones featured in the top-brace picture).forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Marion and other folk may be interested in my version:
Needed to do this in ahurry and the hardware store nearby had plenty of framing timber to select stuff from that had no critical knots.
Each upright is 10 foot tall,the horizontals are 30inches.
Ihave a hollow square chisel morticer so mortised right through and wedged -no shoulder on top for the tenons
Uprights about 36" apart bolted to a convenient timber at the top.Slightly off vertical by wedging the bottom horizontal of each post.
There is about 5 tons of timber there and capacity for lots more.Philip Marcou
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