My neighbor is removing the oak tree that grows up against his home. Apparently it is causing structural damage. Too bad for the neighborhood since it was a big beautiful tree. Not so bad for me–I hope. I walked over and asked if he’d give me two 5 foot lengths of the trunk (from which some day I’ll make chairs). I figure the diameter is about 5′ to 6′.
Anyway, I don’t have machinery to convert the wood to lumber. I’m curious about using a froe (Is that what that sharp metal object is called that is hammered through to split wood?).
I don’t even know where I would purchase such a thing–I seem to recall that they are expensive. In any case, is it worth the effort?
Replies
That is a particularly large tree? My neighbor has a fallen tree looks like 12-18" dia. I must ask them if I can 'help' with the removal. This looks like a useful FWW article http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00074.asp
"Whatever you can do or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius, power and magic in it. Begin it now!" -Goethe
If the trunk is straight, and there are no serious knots in the section you are working on, you may be able to use wedges to split it into "planks". Seen it done -- never tried. I'd guess it's an acquired skill, though.
You can get attachments to saw lumber from a log using a chain saw. They're pretty cheap, work sorta OK, tho' slow. But for what you're doing, that would be what I'd do.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Edit: Cut it ASAP, make sure to seal the ends properly and stack and sticker it promptly in a dry location. Count on 1+ year per inch thickness for drying time. You might want to cut some thick planks and some thinner so you don't make too much sawdust later on thicknessing stock. If the wood has sentimental value to you, or if you're doing this as a learning experience, it's worth doing. If not, considering the labor, time and costs involved in milling etc., your local wood dealer is a better bet.
Edited 3/6/2008 7:44 am ET by MikeHennessy
I believe you are after green lumber to make chairs with? Riving, splitting of logs into chair parts is best done with green lumber. I've heard mentioned from chair makers that the making is best started right away, as bending seems to get more difficult with time. The biggie is red oak or white? I'm a sawmiller and i'm amazed at how fast red oak will go bad in the summer heat. White oak keeps well in the log however. Different grain structures and sugar contents mean less for fungas. Red oak will start staining in a few months to 6 months in the log over hot summer. 5'-6' in dia? Or circum? Big tree! Splitting is fairly easy. Just buy some metal wedges and either make some wooden "gluts" or buy some plastic wedges from chainsaw sales shop to help split in parts. Oak splits very easily once you get it going, though i've never split 6' in diameter, thats as tall as a man. If you have access to really big chainsaw, beg or borrow it and rip in 1/2. I have a 55" bar we rip 8' long butt logs that are too hard to get on the mill. Just stand on one end and come down the end on one 1/2, than get on top and bring the cut over and down the other side. Making sure the two cuts line up is critical and time saving. You can also finish the cut with wedges. Cutting from the end goes really fast as you are pulling out those logs strings of wood, as opposed to ripping with the grain where you need a ripping chain or just make powder. good luck, maybe whittle off the butt flare of the log to help with splitting. Chair makers often put split pieces in water tanks till they use them. But if you are doing windsor, ladder back type that requires steam bending it might not matter. Don't bother if there are many low hanging branch knots. Just use clear section. How many chairs are you going to make? Two 6' diameter log pieces would make about 200 chairs!
Also, froes are easily made from a junk lawn mower blade. Try heat end of blade as red as possible on gas stove, or propane torch. Pound around a round handle. Drill trough and insert a bolt and nut. Sharpen non heat treated side, and whack away! Get a book on green chair making, it shows how to make riving supports and shave horse. No reason to buy one, but if you buy, go to Baileys logging supply, i think they have one for about $35 as i recall. They also used "black powder" actuated wedges. You can see on ebay sometimes. Drill holes, fill with black powder and light them! More fun!!!
Kelvin
I should have checked my dictionary before I sent my post. I assumed diameter was the distance all the way around the trunk. I believe that's circumference, isn't it? I can't imagine making 200+ chairs with the amount of wood the trunks could provide.Anyway, I'll have the pieces of the trunks this weekend. Maybe my neighbor will be kind enough to split them down the middle for me...Thanks
If your circumference is 6 feet it looks like you diameter is about 2 feet. A good size for what you are trying to do.
Last spring I slabbed up an ash tree that we cut down. It was about 30 inches diameter at the stump. I used a chainsaw (free hand) to cut 6 inch thick slabs. Then I used my band saw to make 2" planks. It's a little bit of work but well worth it. Plus the price is right.
I plan to make at least 2 Shaker rockers, one full size and one child size.
As I was digging out the stump I found a few root pieces that looked interesting. One of them made a nice bowl.
One of my neighbors had a hard maple ( 3 foot diameter) taken down this winter. Unfortunately, it all went to fire wood. 'Nuff to make a grown man cry.
Good Luck,
Bill
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