Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | Apr 01, 2012 11:16am | #1

   buying used

   The price strikes me as high, as well, but it still might be worth it for you. (That's your decision based on what is available in your area, etc.)

   I'd talk to the seller and ask questions about how much, and what type of use the saw has seen. Then, with the saw unpluged, inspect it thoroughly to see if the condition matches his/her description. Look for wear on the gears, any looseness in the arbor, runout (if possible). Does the blade raise and lower smoothly? Same on angle changes. After completing the inspection, ask to plug it in to make sure it runs. Listen for unusual sounds, slow, labored start-up, etc.

   Then, based on all of that, decide whether the asking price is appropriate, or make a counter-offer (assuming you are still interested in the saw).

2. 
   frost | Apr 02, 2012 12:29pm | #2

   Seems a bit high to me as well. I bought one used 15 years ago for $1000. Still, they hold their value and if it were lightly used who's to say. For that price, I'd expect an upgraded fence (maybe Biesemeyer) with 4 foot cutting capacity. Should have a decent magnetic switch, check the adjustments etc. Listen to it run. Make sure it fits your electrical specs as its likely 220 volt, but some are 3 phase.

3. 
   bones | Apr 02, 2012 01:52pm | #3

   seems high but ya never know

   I think its high but then I've never seen it.  I know you can do a lot better.  As far as what to look for, I'd say mostly the shaft wear, and bearing quality.  As long as the shaft is not an issue if the bearings need replacing you can do that or have someone do that relatively easy.  Break it down clean it up and if the motor is running good you can get a great old american piece of iron for a fraction.  Just saw a good unisaw go on irsauctions.com for 400.   See it all the time.   Another option is searchtempest that searches all the surrounding cl's for you based on ts.   I'f you are to go that route for sure, invest in a good magnetic base with a dial indicator and it will tell you the play.  In person grab the shaft and try to wiggle it.  If it moves bearings but again no big deal.   If its old and the PM's were good ones, you can get them for a steal.  Even if the motor is an issue, that can be dealt with as well.   Finally go over to the old woodworking website and under the discussion forum they have a BYOD (bring out your dead) and people fix up old saws and sell them all the time.  I'll admit a lot are 3 phase but thats not a big deal either.   I've now mad 3 old machine purchases and I only wish I'd known years ago.   Good luck

   Here is a link to a cheap set that is great for cecking how out a shaft can be.  

   http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/Magnetic-Base-Dial-Indicator-Combo-President-s-Special/G9849

4. 
   lwilliams | Apr 03, 2012 09:26am | #4

   Powermatic used to have an issue with flimsy locking knobs on the depth and tilt adjustment. Somewhere around 1980, not sure of the exact time frame, they improved the quality of these and the problems seem to have vanished. I think you can get the new replacement knobs if necessary. If you find problems with bearings after you get the saw, don't try to replace just the bearings. Replacing them on the arbor is a nightmare. The whole arbor assembly is a lot easier and cheaper in the long run. I tried just the bearings on my saw and know others who did the same. No one I've met speaks positively of the experience and I think we all bent the original arbor in the process. If I remember right, the whole arbor assembly runs about $170.

   I disagree with those that think the Besemeyer fence is an upgrade. We used to have both the Besemeyer style and the early Powermatic cast iron fence in our shop. The Besemeyer depends on a rail mounted rule to set but does that rule agree with the rule you use for everything else? There's no fine adjustment on the Besemeyer and there is on the cast iron Powermatic fence. It's more direct and accurate to measure from the fence to the blade than use some rule a foot from the blade even if that rule happens to agree with the rule you use for everything else. You can lightly lock the lower lever on the old Powermatic fence and use the fine adjustment to easily adjust as fine an increment as you can see on a rule. Lightly setting the lower locking lever, the one that locks the front of the fence, keeps the fence parallel to the blade for fine adjustments. I'm often using the 1/32" increments on a rule and can easily eye-ball 1/2 an increment. You'll never get that kind of accuracy on a sloppy-@ssed Besemeyer.

1. 
   frost | Apr 03, 2012 01:25pm | #5

   Its fine if you don't like the Bisemeyer, but referring to it ( and hence  its users ) as sloppy @ssed is less then diplomatic. 

   My fence is set up according to my steel ruler, not to tape measures and it does lock positively.  To say that you can eye half a 32nd as though others can't is well........... even if the measure is a foot away, it is still a measure. Set up well it is a great add on for me.

   But life has its choices and sticking with the older fence is fine also. I too once had both and went a different way and would not go back.   And while I'm occassionally sloppy around the house, I'm normally not so in the woodshop.

2. 
   JeffHeath | Apr 13, 2012 04:39pm | #6

   Changing arbor bearings

   Larry

   I'll have to disagree with you about changing the bearings on a 66, or a 72, for that matter.  It's a simple matter of knowing the correct procedure, and having the proper tools.

   I have rebuilt several 66's and a 72 (my current shop saw) and it takes me less than 90 minutes, with new bearings on hand, to get the arbor assembly  out of the trunnion, change bearings, and back in.

   Most people mess up by not knowing how to get the locking crown nut off the end of the arbor, which allows the entire assembly to slide out.  Using an impact wrench knocks it right off in seconds.  If you don't own one, my local rental store rents them for $15 for 3 hours.  You'll need it for 5 minutes.

   Once that nut is off, a bearing splitter or puller makes short work of removing the pulley.  don't forget to loosen the set screws on the pulley and on the trunnion.

   Tap the arbor assembly out the blade side with a hammer and block of wood.  Either a good, quality bearing puller or a proper arbor press will get the bearings off and on in short work.  If you don't have a press, a length of PVC pipe cut to length that just clears the arbor diameter, but rests on the inner bearing race can be used with a hammer to re-seat the new bearings.

   A good set of bearings, NTN or similar, will set you back $50 for both.  That's all it should cost you.

   Here's my completely rebuilt and restored PM 72......vintage 1964.

   Jeff