I looked at the video about a woodworker’s kitchen and liked the lazy susan cabinet that was built. It calls for a 3/4″ shelf and another 3/4″ round spinning shelf on top of that. Once the spinning shelf is cut, how should I treat the edge so the plywood doesn’t show and there is a lip on the outside so items don’t fall off? Another question, how do you create ‘stops’ so the shelf goes back to the right position and the door will close?
Thanks,
Fred
Replies
If you are talking about a base unit with a lazy susan, there are a variety of hardware options that stop the doors when they are in the correct position. There are also a number of edge treatments from a simple veneer type iron on tape to wrapping with thin wood. plastic, etc. Normally, a back is fitted in the cabinet that fits around the lazy susan shelves, 1/8" masonite, MDF, etc. Things don't fall off with the circular back. Things don't ordinarily fall off or even fall over with my lazy susans. I keep the spin under 90mph.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Fred ,
Sounds like you are talking about a full round lazy susan shelf , you can buy the center pole or rod and it comes with stops you set .
You can edge band the shelf with like thin hardwood and make it an 1 1/4" tall
Now I re read your post and you said so the doors would close , that makes me think you want a pie cut lazy ?
The full rounds don't usually have or need any stops .
dusty
Correct, these would be pie cut lazy susan shelves 32" diameter. The idea is that they would be on bottom mounted swivels with no post. I am not sure how to create the stops so the pie cut aligns with the door opening.
I was curious how I could treat the edge. My first thought was to re-saw maple into 3/16" strips and use 3 strips to make up the edge.
The pole system comes with stops you adjust to your needs , imo your best bet is to use the available hardware / why reinvent the wheel ?
You didn't say , but sounds like the doors will not rotate with the shelf ?
My guess is you will spend more in time and materials trying to make your own.
regards dusty
Right, the doors won't rotate with the shelf. I can buy pre-made trays made out of birch plywood with built in swivels for $118 for 2. I was hoping I could build them myself instead of buy them. Right now it seems like there isn't an easier solution and I might be better off buying the 2 wooden trays I need.
I do the same thing in the kitchens I build. I buy the 12" lazy susan bearing with "detent". This holds the lazy susan in the right place for you to close the doors. I resaw strips of ash to about 1/16" thick and two inches or so wide so it sticks up and forms a lip. Things don't fall off and there is still a good bit of usable space at the edges. I use a band clamp to laminate two layers around the disk of plywood. Things don't have to be perfect, clean it up after the glue dries. Don't worry about the ends meeting up, leave the strips a bit short, then cut your pie shape to remove that portion. A bit time consuming, but it works and comes out nicely. Not having the center pole makes it much nicer to use.
Mark
Mark,
This sounds perfect, do you have a model number for your swivel or a supplier? Do you nail or secure the edge banding with anything other than glue? How many layers of 1/16" ash do you use?
Thanks,
Fred
I use two layers, but they're a bit thicker than 1/16", probably 3/32". I hear Certainly Wood carries some inexpensive varieties of 1/16" veneer--next time I'll probably just buy some of that rather than resaw and sand smooth my own.
Mark
I get mine from Woodworker's Hardware (800-383-0130) item # TR12D the "D" stands for detent.
Mark ,
Sounds like Fred is making pie cut not full round shelves , will the bearing still work right ?
dusty
Yes, the bearing will still work. Depending on how big you cut the pie I sometimes have a small bit of the bearing showing (1/2" or so). Of course you could avoid that by using the smaller diameter bearings, but I like to use the larger ones.
Mark
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