The weather has come-good at last so not too much progress in the shed this week; one likes to be in the archery field, out on the bicycle or just sitting in the garden drinking in Spring.
However, here are some pics showing the front & back panels of the chest. Once more I have to resort to Photobucket as the Knots pic uploader insists the pics are not of the allowed file types (they are). The pics are between 70 – 200Kb each so should upload quite quickly. May I suggest right-clicking on the link and opening each pic in a new tab of your browser.
First is the fielding of the panels, which is minimal and done with an LN140 skew plane (for the outer or “deep” field) and an LV shoulder plane + straight edge (for the inner or “shallow” field). Use of the planes, rather than a router, gives a slightly undulating line and surface, which looks and feels handtool-made in the fashion I’ve come to enjoy. The final soft look is achieved as part of the hand-sanding process to remove plane tracks and any across-the-grain tearout left by the shallow cutting angles of the planes.
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr22/Lataxe/P1010801_edited-1-1.jpg
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr22/Lataxe/P1010804_edited-1-1.jpg
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr22/Lataxe/P1010805_edited-1-1.jpg
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr22/Lataxe/P1010840_edited-1.jpg
Second is the connection of frame and panel using dominos but also using tongue & groove to locate the panel in the frame. The frame’s “top rail” is in fact the top of the panel itself, as the panel is Domino’d directly into the frame stiles at their top end. At present the top of the panel is left proud of the stile tops and unfielded, whilst I decide if it needs to be flush with the stile-tops or sit below them to leave an “indent” for a lip on the chest lid.
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr22/Lataxe/P1010855_edited-1.jpg
The bits of veneer in the groove of the bottom rail (3mm in total thickness) lift the panel out of the groove so that when the Domino M&Ts are made, the panel is left floating 3mm above the groove floor – room for any humidity-related expansion. Thus the panel is hung from the top of the stiles and may contract/expand from there into the bottom rail’s groove, with the side tongues sliding freely in the stile-grooves. (Obviously those veneer bits are taken out once the joints are made).
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr22/Lataxe/P1010844_edited-1.jpg
The dominoes are all 50mm in length – 2X8mm thick dominos for each top panel-to-stile connection and 1X10mm thick domino for each bottom rail-to-stile connection. These dominos are big enough to pin through with 6mm dowels, in due course when the final assembly and glue-up takes place. I’ll be trying the square dowel in a round hole technique mentioned by Ray Pine in a previous post, although I’ll probably ease the corners of the part that goes down the hole, leaving the top of the dowel sticking out and pyramid-cut.
All of the domino-ing is done from the inside faces, so that frames and their panels will be flush on the inside of the chest but have various indents and ledges on the outsides.
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr22/Lataxe/P1010846_edited-1.jpg
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr22/Lataxe/P1010847_edited-1.jpg
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr22/Lataxe/P1010850_edited-1.jpg
Incidentally, as I’ve done with biscuits for years, I glue one half of the dominos in place (into the stiles in this case) whilst leaving the other half free so that the piece can be assembled and disassembled, as I make and fit the various parts. Despite the warnings one reads everywhere, I find that this half-gluing does not swell the unglued half, which remains able to go in and out of the dry mortise until it’s time for final glue-up. This does make the final glue-up easier as one doesn’t have to glue and assemble everything at once.
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr22/Lataxe/P1010837_edited-1.jpg
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr22/Lataxe/P1010838_edited-1.jpg
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr22/Lataxe/P1010852_edited-1.jpg
Next stage will be the making and fitting of the end frame&panels, including the curved top and the hewn handles. It may also be time to start sculpting edges with that drawknife.
Lataxe
Replies
<img src="http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr22/Lataxe/P1010801_edited-1-1.jpg">
Lataxe, I was just trying to see if your images could be embedded within the post using html code, but it seems that doesn't work. I'll probably simply delete this reply if I can work out how. Slainte.
PS. Edit. It looks like you can't embed JPEG images at the moment, and I've also discovered you can't delete pointless messages like this either. I can only edit them. That being the case, I'll just leave this bit of foolishness here for all to giggle at, ha, ha. Incidentally, I didn't go clicking through all your links to view the pictures.
Lataxe,
The photos of your progress look great so far. The photo of the frame in the vice with the sun from the window behind is a nice one. Your bench is nicely lit with all of that natural light. I can't wait to see more pics of the progress. How do you like that little LN skew rebate plane? I was thinking of getting one as a little treat for all of the hard work I have been doing lately. I wish I could say all of that hard work was woodworking, sadly it's not. My last few posts were about the Jet JJP-12, but I have had little time to give it a proper workout and report more on is operation. Baseball season has arrived here and I will be spending a lot of time at my sons’ games. This is his last year for high school sports; I don't know what I'm going to do when he is off to college.
Anyway, keep up the good work and all of the nice posts, I love seeing the progress and the photos of your shop.
Good post!
Lataxe,
Good pictoral documentation. I find that when I am building something, I often get so caught up, I don't take pictures until it's almost done. Clever (mis)use of the POWER tool guide, using it to guide your hand planes. Is that even allowed? I'd never thought of that.
What are the triple tenons atop the stiles for? I must have missed some description, but I read and reread your post to no avail. I've attached a screen shot of what I am referring to, from picture P1010855.
Nice update
Thanks for the update, Lataxe. Good progress being made here.
Too bad the images don't show up in-line.
Post Pictures
Lataxe, I think the issue is not the picture or size but may be with the format of the name. I simply opened your picture in a new window and resaved it as Lataxe Side. Loaded just fine. Perhaps you might like to edit?
I don't think, and I have tried to embed photos in the narative as well. The best you can do is name the file, and place that name in the correct place. I copied and pasted the image above, which leaves a square winders thing, and when you open it, it opens and moves you to a new window, which you then have to go back to you....
What you really want is a blog feature.. wait ........ a ....... while......
Morgan
Blog
Morgan's idea of a blog is an interesting one, and you might be allowed to set up one on the Fine Woodworking site called "The Woodworking Life". I'm not sure who to ask - maybe Gina or Ed Pirnik?
Woodworking Life
Chris that site has its issues as well. If you read through some you don't post pics in the middle of text either... This style of sharing techniques is difficult here. You almost need to do a Derek blog and send a link.
Morgan
Them pickshers
Richard,
Thanks for that try to fix the photo-embed thang. It is a pain just now and one wonders why they take two steps fo'rard and one back on the new website.
Morgan and Chris - I'd be grateful if you could do me a step by step, in words of one explicit syllable each, of how you get those little pic boxes into a post. As you suggest Morgan, it may well be something to do with the naming convention of my picture file that is causing problems with the Knots pic attach facility (although they are all .jpg) as the message from the Knots attachment machine in the posting screen tells me the files are not of the acceptable type listed (which include jpg !!??).
Bob,
Perhaps the children should be given sixpence each and sent off to play by themselves? I know these modern children, though, via grandchildren. They have developed an expectation and assumption that we adults must be their slaves! Obviously their mothers have failed to beat them enough and they haven't been thrust into the cupboard under the stairs on nearly enough occassions. I blame Dr Spock.
As to that LN140 skew - I use it a lot and find it handy for many things. However, I really must obtain the left hand version and perhaps some additional blades to grind with a higher cutting angle, as tearout will occur on parallel-to-the-grain planing unless the wee rascal is used with the grain. This isn't possible with just the one LN140, as you will know. And naughty wood does not agree with 37 degrees.
Chris,
Those sticky-out bits atop the stiles are not tenons but geet big pins that will go into those wide narrow-necked tails. The idea is that the pin-tops stick out a ways from the tails and are chamfered along their sticky-out edges; also that they are large and agrikultural-looking. Where there are through-tenons they too will stick out and be chamfered (and wedged) as will the square tops of any dowels that pin tenons (or dominos). It will be a lumpy thang, this chest!
I still can't decide whether to do some primitive carving on it too. I'll make another post in due course and offer some suggestions for you lads to pick at or even approve.
Meanwhile I am doing the end frames and panels, including the carved handles. Pics in due course.
Lataxe, entertaining a visiting daughter at the moment.
It is a pain just now and one wonders why they take two steps fo'rard and one back on the new website.
And I find woodworking just the same... Take two steps fo'rard and one back ............
I'd be grateful if you could do me a step by step, in words of one explicit syllable each, of how you get those little pic boxes into a post.
Lataxe, As I recall, you use Winders and are PC based and not Mac based. Here is how I do it Winders style. If you are Mack Based, then I will edit and remove this. I think some file names, those with lots of _ - and other odd characters, or length could be the issue. My guess is you have '_' in your files, and this website converts spaces in the file name to _. So it may get an error of not finding it.
I use photoshop most of the time to mess with Pictures, but here is how to do it Winders style. This website seems to accept large files as well, but I keep mine to 800kb to keep it easy for others to open. A typical file of mine will be 3.5 Meg, so the first thing I do is file size reduce it.
In Winders Picture and Fax Viewer" I will open the picture and then right click on the image, then click 'Resize'. It give you an option of Small Medium and Large. I will use the Medium size and save. You will now have a file of the same name, with a (medium) behind it.
Open the folder it is in and you can rename it as fits.
Next go into the Attach files part. Click browse and choose your picture. The click on Open in the Windows box, and it will upload, hopefully, with no problem. I have tried it just now with PDF, GIF and JPG and they all work fine. I was able to load a Power point presentation as well. (I have not kept those here, and removed them before posting)
Note that when you do a new POST there are places for Images and Files. I have not used the file section so I can not comment on that.
The real issue is making a story line, no way to imbed a picture in your text. Not going to happen. You will have to use a Name in your post, and have a picture of the same Name at the bottom in the images. I have tried 3 ways to do this, but it does not allow images in the text. Like Richard, I tried HTML as well, but I could not get it to work either.
I hope this helps,
pix
Morgan's walk-through on picture posting pretty much covers it, I think. One wrinkle not mentioned specifically is that the images need to be uploaded directly from your PC, not from an external host. That option went away with the new software, and it's the new post editor that is ignoring all HTML code that would allow in-line images.
The other problem with the current image display process is that the images end up being too small to be useful. External hosting of images of a reasonable size is far more useful, and actually reduces Taunton's expense, since both the storage and the bandwidth get charged to the external host site.
I posted a suggestion about this in the Web Feedback section, but we probably need to campaign Gina to get any change put in place.
Image size
Ralph I have played around with this and have uploaded some 2 MEG file sizes. When you click on the image, then click the expand button they more than fill my 21" monitor! Pretty kewl actually. The image below is 3.36 megs.. an art piece of mine.
Morgan
this was another barnsley chest that I came across
ron
I did put up pic of my ap stool in knots
Ron,
Thank you for that further set of Cotswold motifs, now 'sconced away on the hard disc with the others, rather too small a collection. I wish I could find a magic book with them all pictured exploded-style. Perhaps I should get off my lazy erse and compose such a book. Too many distractions in this life of retirement.
So many distractions, in fact, that I have done little with the chest I'm making in the last week or three. We have a daughter staying temporarily as she does her final fling towards a degree in psychiatric nursing at the local university. She has been such a nurse for a decade but felt moved to acquire some deeper grasp of the various problematic behaviours and modern nursing techniques, which happily now consist of more than a chemical cosh or a long-sleeved jacket.
I have found myself daughter-entertaining in various ways, including a lot of cycling about with her o'er hill and dale, trying to look calm and collected as she dives up the hills like a whippersnapper. I am tired oot!
I will resume the chest soon but meanwhile the period of "rest" has allowed me to think and think about the details of the lid, which I must have clear in my little head before long. It must incorporate the flanges for wooden hinges and a wooden clasp, as I can't find any black iron of the right sort other than handmade stuff which would cost an arm, a leg and one buttock.
But then I have the luxury of time and freedom from accountants. :-)
Lataxe
Interesting!
I went to your photo file and looked over the progress of your work. There's no question in my mind that it will be a buxom chest when it's finished! I think I'll be able to resist buying a Domino for a while longer but it's clear you're putting yours to good use!
A couple of questions, please Sir, if you can fit them into your busy retirement schedudle: I've adapted the WoodRat plunge bar for use in my Veritas router table. It raises my big Freud router with no problem but I've never considered using it for freehand use. Do you find it in any way awkward when used the way you have it on your Dewalt router?
I also enjoyed the photos of the inlaid table. I noticed that the finish seems to have deteriorated on the top. Is this the result of lighting in the photo, age of the finish or (perhaps) the results of a learning experience?
I admire your work and your posts.
Regards,
Ron
Ron,
Part of the reason for lack of chest-progress just now is the dang hayfever, which arrived last week with a vengeange. It has been very cold here until lately so now the birch and other fine pollen-spewers have been catching up, as the sun warms their cockles. One bicycle ride or a half day on the archery field and I am snooting, wheezing and gumming at the eye! Lawdy!!
The hayfever makes me somewhat bad-tempered and a little stoopid; this and the exascerbation of wood dust to the nasals means no shed time just yet. However, I have just begun a stained glass course, in anticipation of some G&G lights as well as a Tiffany or two. Have you ever cut glass? I have spent a week practicising and can't get over the magic of the glass cutting & snapping tools & tekneeks.
****
Now, that WR plungebar. I did have one in the router table on a Dewalt 625 but found it too clumsy an arrangement. It isn't so easy to take the plunge-spring out of the Dewalt and the "fine adjuster" is just a great big knob on a length of threaded bar. The WR plunge bar did help to push the router up but the lack of control, especially of an easy depth-set, saw me swap out the Dewalt for a Triton, which works much, much better in a router table and doesn't need a WR plungebar. It has a coarse and fine height adjustment arrangement (amongst other routertable-friendly gizmos) so is quickly and precisely adjusted.
The WR plungebar on a router in the woodrat is a definite advantage however, as it works with gravity (agin the router spring). It allows one-handed plunging and much more control of the depth as one actually routes a workpiece. I doubt the WR can be used so accurately without one or something very like it, as most routers balk or stick at one-handed plunging using just one of their handles.
It is not easy to keep control of the depth with just one side-mounted plunge handle whereas the WR plunge bar allows the application of a central downpushing force using your opposed thumb and index/middle fingers of one hand; the same hand can slide the router back and forth at the same time; the other hand meanwhile winds the jaws of the rat with the workpiece in it. Thus, the mechanicals allow easy 3D cutting; one merely needs to train the brain to make the hands do the right things.
*****
The photos in Photobucket of that ugly table were posted in another forum, where lads have not yet found the courage to offer (positive) criticism of others' work. That table was the first I made, long ago before I had any experience. It was the second or maybe third piece I made, after a bookshelf and a flower pot - if you can count that.
The idea was to show a trooly terrible piece of work, both in terms of design and construction, so lads could not feel too bad about discovering the errors and suggesting possible improvements. I made it very clear that their criticism was unlikely to be more savage than my own. :-)
There wasn't too much response though. Many in Blighty are over-careful about saying what they think, as many folk can be oversensitive. This is why I spend 99% of my WW forum time on Knots, as those in the North American continent tend to be more open and honest. In practice very few are rude or negative (there is an exception or two) and this is what I prefer personally. What's the point of having your ego stroked if it fails to help you realise where you might improve?
Anway, you gotta admit that that is one ugly dang table!
Lataxe, hopefully somewhat improved in his skills and proportionaities by now.
I did reply under your reply in the knots forum
ron
Next stage will be the making and fitting of the end frame&panels, including the curved top and the hewn handles. It may also be time to start sculpting edges with that drawknife.\
And I thought ya only cut things with a hamd plane and a chopping chise;l!
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