I need to make up a large number of shelves in a built in wardrobe and am thinking of gluing up panels of 2.6mm ply to 6mm mdf, using Titebond glue. These panels will drop flush and unfixed into solid timber frames. The room is airconditioned 4 months of the year. Can anybody see a problem?
Sean
Replies
So essentially you're making door panels, putting them in frames, then laying that horizontal to make a shelf?
What's the span, and load of your shelf?
That's it exactly. Largest panel will be 1060x600; load I can't calculate but it will be ladies garments and fabrics - not heavy stuff.
Sean
The strength of this shelf comes from the frame it sits in, specifically the thickness.
Laminating your own ply is never as strong as premade ply(made under much higher temp and pressure conditions.)
Edited 7/1/2005 8:09 am ET by jackplane
Many thaks for all the input.
Sean
I see no problems BUT why bother.. Get some hardwood finished MDF and be done with it...
I made a bookcase for my son-in-law.. He is a Dr. Has ALOT of heavy books..
I put aluminum 'L' (1/2X1/2 I think) in dadoes that ran the length of the 3/4 Hardwood covered MDF..
It is the ONLY big book shelf he has that does not look like a boat anchor been sitting on the shelves for years.. Front and back face edges have a hardwood 'L' dadoed in...
Down center of each shelf I put a 3/4 inch dovetail groove.. with mating dovetailed sliding book ends... Notches at one end of the shelves (in the dovetail) allows the sliding bookshelf to be removed if wanted... The sliding book-ends have a dovetailed slider that is below the surface of the shelf.. Works great!.. Alot of work to make but worked out REALLY NICE!
Length of shelf?
Great idea!
A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working -- yes, I'm retired!
MDF isn't a good shelf material. It sags much more than plywood. If you must use it, at least clad both sides with your ply, to form something like a torsion box.
I think that it is a bad idea to mix those materials. The chance (however small) that the two pieces will move differently causing bowing is not worth the risk. On a recient project I used 3/4" and 1/2" ply laminated togather with yellow glue. The span is 4 feet and they are full of very heavy text books (it is for a preacher). I will have to dissagree with the 1/2" angle aluminum. I have worked with aluminum enough to know that aluminum angle of that size cant even support its own weight without sagging. Here is some pics of our shelves.
Mike
I will have to disagree with the 1/2" angle aluminum...
I used it with success.. I put it in there because I was cutting a large dovetail through the center (along the long length) of each shelf...
Two angles in each shelf.. 1/3 width of shelf... The angle fits in a routed groove and dado with a bit of epoxy on it (roughed up a bit)..
I tested a sample before I made the whole project.. Put a shelf on 4X4 at the very ends... Evenly spaced 4 bags of cement (I think they were the 80 lb bags) along the length.. The shelves are about 6.5 feet long... Let it sit a week or so..
As stated.. each shelf also has a hardwood 'L' at face and back (edge trimmed with groove and dado/glued Not epoxy)
By the way.. I have worked metal all my life... Aluminum ' L' (I think sort of like wood arch) is very strong when supported so it can not twist.. Well, its not cold rolled steel but lighter...
I am not saying it is the best way.. Just what I did and it worked for me.. Besides aluminum is easier to work with in and don't RUST!
My son-in-law has hade it for a few years and still no sag that I can see...
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