Laminating over melamine cabinet end?
Hi Everyone,
I’d like to cover over the white melamine that’s exposed at end runs in my kitchen. The doors are QS beech with 1/4″ thick beech veneered MDF panels, which came out very well (thanks everyone for their advice!). I’d like to match this if possible on the end runs.
Here’s my plan for the end runs, I would appreciate any feedback and comments:
- Cut 1/4″ thick, beech veneered MDF panels to size;
- Glue panels to trim/edge bitsto make “covers” sized for each end run;
- Attach the “covers” to the end runs using water-based contact cement;
- Apply finish to the “covers” (this would probably be easier before gluing down).
The 1/4″ veneered MDF will end up being glued directly to the melamine, there won’t be an air gap.
I’m guessing the water based contact cement will work, a test run with offcuts showed reasonably good adhesion to melamine.
I know that adheering the covers to the end runs will be tricky but I should be able to get around this if I’m careful. My biggest concern is that I’ll be applying a thick “veneer” to only one side of the melamine. Could/would this warp the melamine pieces?
Any comments or feedback will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Peter
PS In hindsight I would have used ply for the cabinet carcasses. Live and learn.
Edited 8/24/2009 3:55 pm ET by PeterThomson
Edited 8/24/2009 3:56 pm ET by PeterThomson
Replies
I have not had any problem attaching 1/4 MDF panels to 3/4 melamine board with contact cement.However I double coat the MDF and always use solvent base contact.I have found that solvent base works best when adding laminate to laminate or MDF to MCP
Thank you, much appreciated!! Always appreciate bouncing ideas off of more experienced folks, I'll give solvent-based a shot.
Cheers,
Peter
Most important wear organic vapour mask pain though it is, as the fumes are bad.
I hear that, hate solvent fumes. Will be getting my 9 month old daughter out of the house for the afternoon, too.
ive covered the ends of cabinets for years and always use latex based contact cement, never had a problem
spread it then with a brush or roller, let it dry, add a second coat if the surface is porous(like plywood)
a THIN coating is the key
I install a lot of manufactured kitchens. We often add an end skin of 1/4" plywood for cabinet sides that will be seen. We scuff the finished side of the cabinet with coarse sandpaper and use a construction adhesive, something like Liquid Nails works well, follow the directions. This adhesive allows you to move the skin around if needed, unlike contact cement. With contact, you touch down and you'd better be right, there is no repositioning. You don't have to cover the entire surface with adhesive, relatively little fumes, no clean up or need for rollers or brushes, no drips or spills.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I've seen Liquid Nails but never used it, thanks for the tip! I'll try it out on some scrap to see how it goes. I really like the idea of getting a few moments to adjust the skin. Even with water based contact cement, I'd have to get my daughter out of the house to avoid the inevitable cursing if I screw up and get a crooked skin.
Thanks everyone,
Pete
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