I don’t do much laminate work but i need to make a 7′ round laminated table top (with a 36″ lazy susan table sitting on top centered) 1 1/4″ thick with a rubber bumper around the perimeter. Do i use a 5/8 & a 1/2 thick sheetgood or (3/4″ & 3/8″)to build up the field glued with titebond & screwed from the top, off-setting the butt joint seams in each layer, router it round using circle jig & then apply laminate & machine the bumper groove & apply the 1 1/4″ bumper t molding? thanks!
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Replies
Any time I've seen tables that big in restaurants, they have been in 2 pieces. I would use 1 1/4" MDF and make 2 semi-circles and "fasten" them together after the fact. This will make transportation much easier also.
Peter
www.jpswoodworking.com
Most shops use industrial particle board for laminate substrate, it's much lighter than MDF and stable. Depending on your local sources of supply, you may have to order it. Ordinary particle board is not the same and should not be used. You don't have to make the entire table top 1 1/4" thick. The main top can be 3/4". You can use 1/2" to add to the 3/4" around the perimeter. Rip out some strips 7" - 8" wide and fit them in an octagon around the edge. You can use different polygons if you want. Try to keep at least 2" of the 1/2" remaining at the short point, after you cut the circle. Be careful where you put any screws or other fasteners.
Doing the top in two pieces is a good idea if possible. 7' is large and you need long arms to get around it. Whether you make it in one or two pieces, a 1/4" spline is normally used at the connection. A correctly fitting spline will keep the top surface flush if making a two piece. It's a good strong connection if you are gluing up for a one piece. You can add strips or pieces under the joint as you feel necessary. If it's in two pieces, you can use TiteJoint Fasteners, the type that are used for the miters in kitchen countertops. Place some blocks with the appropriate holes and grooves for the fasteners along the spline joint. Your leg and apron assembly may also lend some additional support fot the top, depending on your design.
Some will use a laminate backer sheet before applying the 1/2" strips underneath. The idea is to keep the raw particle board from absorbing moisture. I haven't had any problems using a few coats of poly on the underside. I can glue the strips on and not use fasteners. The rest is as you wrote. Cut the circle, apply the laminate. Take the time to remove the sharp edge after you trim the laminate. Nothing that you see, 400 grit paper, just so it can't cut someone. Rout the groove for the T mold and press it in with a small roller, very gently. It will help if the edging is a bit warm and pliable. I use silicone adhesive in the T groove, a band clamp may come in handy on a circle. When you make the final cut on the T-mold, cut back the tongue just a little bit so you can lap one over the other to mark the fit.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
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